Switzerland Archives - The Best Viewpoints

March 16, 2025 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest peak of Liechtenstein – Vorder Grauspitz

Vorder Grauspitz is a sharp peak in the alpine mountains Rätikon and you can experience there one of the most exciting hikes in Europe. The ascent to the summit via the most common route is unique as you have to pass a tunnel. In addition, you can expect a climb in a very steep terrain and there is no marked path to the top. Even though Vorder Grauspitz is only 2,599 meters high it caused me big difficulties. It became the only mountain of the entire expedition European Peaks, where I had to give up during my summit day. I had to return again under more favorable conditions. What happened? Read on not only for general tips of Vorder Grauspitz but also for my personal experience and tips how to reach the peak.

Important information for climbing Vorder Grauspitz via the normal route from Switzerland

Short description of the ascent from Malans, Switzerland: Demanding hike with scrambling, the last part of the hike is very steep and unmarked.
Essential equipment: General hiking gear, hiking poles and stable hiking shoes recommended for great stability in the steep parts.
Best time to visit: June - September
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes, above the tree line
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Haus Meierhüsli in village Malans
Height of the peak: 2,599 m
Distance to the top: 9 km (one way)
Time to ascend from the top of cable car to Vorder Grauspitz: 4-6 hours up, 3-5 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1,210 m (on the way up), 301 m (on the way back) 
Water availability on the mountain: Yes, last time at the farm Alp Ijes.
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Club Bier 06 Summer Ale *** (6 stars maximum)

Warning before you start reading about Vorder Grauspitz

I managed to summit Vorder Grauspitz in winter during excellent conditions but be aware that there is no clear path to the top of Vorder Grauspitz. You can expect there a very steep terrain with loose stones on the last section of the hike/climb in summer and avalanche danger in winter. Consider going up only if you have enough experiences and ideally during dry conditions.

Two possible routes to Vorder Grauspitz

The two routes below describe the ways to Hinter Grauspitz. The route between Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz is the same for both routes. The routes are easy to follow but I recommend to bring GPS navigation as they are not clearly marked and there are many crossroads on the way.

Normal route from Malans, Switzerland: This route is most often used to reach Vorder Grauspitz because you can save hundreds of elevation meters via a cable car called Älplibahn. You will find it in the village Malans in Switzerland. If you are looking for accommodation at the starting point, book in advance because there aren’t many options. I recommend Haus Meierhüsli. From the top of the cable car you will walk through wonderful nature offering amazing views. The best views are coming at a pass at 2,050 m. From there, you can see Vorder Grauspitz for the first time. On the way, you will pass multiple farms and also a tunnel which is used to transport sheep even these days. After the tunnel you reach a small farm called Alp Ijes. From there, the route goes sharply up until you reach a ridge. Follow the ridge to Hinter Grauspitz. Note that the map (see also below) of the route ends at the ridge to Hinter Grauspitz, but you can continue up without problems (blue arrow in picture below). I explain the last part of the route between Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz below.
Route from Liechtenstein: This route starts at a parking lot nearby the village Steg in Liechtenstein. This route is more demanding because you will need to pass much higher elevation and the path isn’t marked from approximately 1,750 m. Therefore, a GPS is a must. Scrambling is necessary too on some parts of this route.

From Hinter Grauspitz to Vorder Grauspitz: you will follow the same route for both routes. It isn’t far but there is a very exposed ridge without a path in between Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz, which you can only climb with full climbing equipment and experience. Fortunately, there is an alternative route (red arrow in picture below). From Hinter Grauspitz, go down the ridge leading to Switzerland (the same way as you go up on the Swiss route) until it isn’t too steep (around 2,400 m – approximately where the route ends on this map) and then you traverse the slope under the ridge towards Vorder Grauspitz. Note that there is no path and the terrain is uncomfortable, but it is possible to do it. I highly recommend to bring very good shoes as the steep terrain will be tough for your ankles. There are also many loose stones. Be careful! Once you reach the ridge leading up to Vorder Grauspitz, follow it to the top.

For more clarity, I am adding a picture taken from Vorder Grauspitz and tips on how to reach it:

The blue arrow leads to Hinter Grauspitz on the ridge (Swiss route to Hinter Grauspitz).
The red arrow is the recommended route if you want to skip Hinter Grauspitz via the Swiss route.
The orange arrow is the route that I took after reaching Hinter Grauspitz and describe below. We took this way but the conditions can vary in summer/winter so decide your route based on current conditions. It isn’t recommended, because it is very steep.

Description to climb mountain Vorder Grauspitz

Maps of the climb to Vorder Grauspitz

Normal route from Switzerland (note that it ends at the start of the blue and red arrow in the picture above)

Liechtenstein route (note that it shows the route via the ridge between Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz – an alternative route is described above)

My story of climbing Vorder Grauspitz in winter conditions with personal tips

I climbed Vorder Grauspitz as a part of my project European Peaks in the month of May but surprisingly it was a very difficult task! There were still winter conditions. The ministate Liechtenstein hides a polished treasure – a sharp peak with an unbeatable view! Since I heard the climb can be very challenging in winter conditions I decided to climb it with a guide.

We arrived to the recently renovated cable car Älplibahn at seven o’clock in the morning. We were told that there is still a continuous snow cover from the cable car’s end station so we took up back-country skis again.

Älplibahn cable car in Switzerland — *Älplibahn*

On the top we were stopped by an employee of the cable car: “At this time of year the ascent to the summit is very difficult, probably even impossible. This year brought unusually so much snow that I doubt you will manage. Be careful! There can even be avalanches.” We assured him we’ll be careful. Let’s see.

Too much snow at Grauspitz

We put our skis on and started our journey. We climbed 200 elevation meters up to the first ridge from which there is a great view of Grauspitz itself. This mountain has actually two peaks – Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz. The marked path leads only to Hinter Grauspitz, which is twenty-five meters lower. Between the two peaks is a very sharp ridge. We’ll see how possible it will be to reach it when we get there.

View over Vorder Grauspitz in winter — *The first view over Vorder Grauspitz (the sharp remote peak in the middle of the picture)*

Now there was a valley between us and Grauspitz, so we had to go down and climb up to the opposite ridge. It was nine o’clock in the morning and it was already very warm. The snow turned into a wet slush. The mountain guide warned me in advance: “The conditions are very risky. Avalanches are possible. I’ll go first and see.”

His ride across the slope tore down a small and slow but very heavy and wet avalanche. Climbing Grauspitz in these conditions will be really difficult. We will see what the situation will look like on the other ridge. We skied down to a small farm Fläscher Alp which was covered with snow up to the roof. This year’s winter has been very generous.

Swiss Alps and Fläscher Alp in winter — *Fläscher Alp covered by snow*

Too risky conditions at Vorder Grauspitz

While we continued to the other side of the ridge it was clear that the snow was melting fast in this weather. It was most visible on a rocky hill on the other side, where small avalanches were falling very frequently. Soon we reached a hole in the rock. The trail continued through a tunnel. We took off our skis and walked towards the other side of the tunnel but there was an unpleasant surprise. 95% of the entrance was covered by snow. What now?

We had to start digging to get out. After a while we succeeded and we saw Grauspitz from the other side. However, that was the last positive news. More than three meters of wet snow and very steep terrain meant that we can’t continue. It would be too dangerous when it comes to avalanches. This time the weather and the mountains said no. We can’t get to the top. However, the mountain will stay. I’ll try to climb it another time.

Getting out of tunnel through a lot of snow — *Crazy amount of snow at the end of the tunnel*

Attempt No. 2

14 days later I was on the way back. I had big respect to this mountain due to the first experience so I was very careful this time. Before my journey I wrote to the Swiss Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research to see if there was any avalanche danger on Grauspitz. They weren’t actually releasing any statements anymore. June is already off season. However, I got a reply to my email: “There is still over a meter of snow at the top of Grauspitz but the snow cover is stabilized. There should be no avalanche danger in case there will be a freezing night before your summit day.”

After my return from Russia I had to wait a few days for the freezing night but it came! Time for the last summit of my expedition.

On June 13 I met again with my two climbing partners who climbed with me the highest point of Switzerland. We all met by the cable car Älplibahn. In order to climb the mountain under the best possible conditions, we decided to meet one day before the summit day to sleep under the peak and go up very early in the morning. This should ensure perfect snow conditions. We did as we planned. We brought again our back-country skis but this time we also brought common hiking shoes in case the snow melted.

It was gloomy down by the cable car but as soon as we arrived to the end station of the cable car we got above the clouds. We had a wonderful view of the ocean of clouds and small islands of the snowy Swiss Alps. When the nice old gentleman saw us he immediately laughed, “Haha. Next try? I told you, Grauspitz will not be climbable until the end of June. There’s still over a meter of snow behind the tunnel.” We will see.

Beautiful early spring day in Switzerland — *It was a wonderful late spring day*

This time we didn’t put on our skis. There was no snow until the first ridge. What a change in just two weeks! Then we could ski at least for a while until we reached Fläscher Alp farm. Our plan was to sleep there. We originally thought we would just bivouac outside but the weather changed our plans. Clouds suddenly began to rise and covered even the farm. After a while, it even started to rain. Since we didn’t bring any tent we were looking for an alternative accommodation. We were lucky one of the houses for cattle was open so we could sleep on the floor. Nothing luxurious but better than in rain..

Fläscher Alp in spring — *The snow melted significantly in Fläscher Alp in two weeks*

It was late so we just pulled out our mats and sleeping bags and went to bed. But I didn’t sleep well. “What if the clouds cover the whole mountain and it won’t freeze at night? Was the prediction wrong again? What if I went to the highest mountain in Liechtenstein again, unnecessarily?”

When we woke up at 3:30 a.m. we went outside to check the weather. Still foggy and wet. Our only hope was that the peak remained cloudless. Since we didn’t know what conditions are behind the tunnel we brought the back-country skis and hiking equipment. I also had to take two pairs of crampons because one pair was fitting my hiking shoes and one was fitting my skiing boots. All together my backpack weighed 20 kilograms.

At 4:15 we were ready to leave. It was as dark and foggy but there was no snow until the tunnel so we reached it easily. At the other end of the tunnel, I was expecting a lot of snow. After all, there was over two meters of it just two weeks ago. But now? Nothing. All the snow melted. What a surprise! Maybe we didn’t even had to bring the skis.

We continued to the nearby farm Alp Ijes. There was finally snow. It was still foggy but luckily it was freezing so the snow was compact and stable. “We can climb up.” our mountain guide said. Time to ascend.

We continued up according to the navigation. We were still climbing in the fog and in a bad mood. Hopefully the rising sun will dissolve the clouds. After a while the hope came true. The blue sky began to appear in the clouds above us. We continued up for a few more minutes and got above the clouds. Suddenly we saw all the beauty around. Sharp mountains, long ridges and especially the path we have to take to the top. Amazing. Suddenly I thought that we couldn’t have wished for better weather for the final peak than this one. How quickly the mood can change!

Above clouds in Swiss mountains — *We are finally above the clouds!*

Sunrise above clouds in Swiss mountains — *Suddenly amazing weather!*

In addition to the great visibility, it was also noticeable that it was freezing on the ridge at night. The snow was hard and frozen. The way to the peak is free. We put down our skis and looked around to see where we would continue. There were two possible routes. Should we follow the ridge to Hinter Grauspitz and then continue to Vorder Grauspitz or should we skip Hinter Grauspitz, traverse along it and get to Vorder Grauspitz directly?

Highest Peak of Liechtenstein Vorder Grauspitz — *Which way will be better to Vorder Grauspitz?*

The first alternative seemed to be less steep so we decided for that one. The second option seemed to be too steep at first glance. 80% of the climb to Hinter Grauspitz was on snow so we took crampons on. It was an easy climb. In half an hour we already reached the top of the second highest point of Liechtenstein. The view was beautiful. This part of the Alps is really amazing. Unfortunately, the journey we wanted to take wasn’t possible. The ridge between both Grauspitz was too steep and the rocks were very unstable after the tough winter.

Therefore, we had to return 200 meters down and go to the highest point via the traverse. This route was also very steep but the snow was hard so we could secure with our ice axes.

We passed the traverse in half an hour and we had ahead only the final climb. If all goes well, I’ll finish my expedition in about 15 minutes. From this point, the slope didn’t look as steep it looked from the ridge were we left the skis. This will be an easy climb if I compare it for example with our crazy climb to Maglić. We can do it!

Last steps of expedition European Peaks

During the last steps, my entire expedition was reflected in my head. In particular, I remembered all the difficult moments: When my mother sprained her ankle in Romania and I accompanied her back to civilization; when Joanne and I met a bear in Montenegro and we almost got scared; when I lost my hiking pole and had to go to the Dufourspitze with a broom; my accident in Scotland… I was beginning to realize that this wonderful ascent would be the last one of the expedition.

The final ridge was very narrow but it was still possible to pass it. After a few minutes I was finally standing on the top. The last mountain of the expedition was conquered.

View from Vorder Grauspitz — *What a view you have from Vorder Grauspitz*

In the end, the climb was not as challenging as I feared. I was actually glad that we made the climb on snow. In the summer, climbing on the breaking stones and slippery grass would probably be much tougher. This was actually confirmed by other climbers who climbed Grauspitz in summer.

View from Vorder Grauspitz to Hinter Grauspitz — *Can you see the cross of Hinter Grauspitz?*

I opened the last peak beer and wanted to enjoy the moment of victory but half of it leaked out when I opened it. It even made my Czech flag dirty which I had prepared for the top photo. The life is not perfect. I enjoyed the moment anyway.

Czech flag on Vorder Grauspitz — *Me on the top of the last peak of my expedition with a dirty Czech flag because of beer*

I wanted to stay on the peak longer but I couldn’t. Time was running out. My flight from Zürich was leaving in six hours. I had to catch the cable car latest in two and half hours so I had at least a theoretical chance to catch the plane back home.

Happiness is only real when shared

The journey back was crazy. First we ran back to our skis, then we took a quick downhill to Alp Ijes where I said goodbye to Petra and our mountain guide. “Thank you very much. I wouldn’t manage this without you” and had to continue further with my 20 kg backpack. I ran back to Fläscher Alp farm, added a sleeping bag and mat to my backpack and continued to the cable car. My whole body ached, I was very hungry and thirsty, but there was no time to take a break. The tourists I passed were shaking their heads when they saw me running with all the equipment.

I reached the cable car two minutes before its departure. I wanted to rest there but two older but nice and inquisitive ladies kept asking me questions in the cabin. They also didn’t believe that it was still possible to ski at these altitudes. I showed them photos from the peak and they kept on asking. In the end, I didn’t find time to drink or eat in the cable car. The next opportunity will be at the airport.

The rest of the journey by car to the airport was crazy. I’d rather not describe it. If the Swiss police read it on this blog they would send me a few fines. The important thing was that I caught the plane last minute.

Now I am back at home in Stockholm and I am finally sitting on our couch. My girlfriend is opening a bottle of champagne and says: “Congratulations to your World Record. You became the fastest to climb the highest mountain of every European country. You made it.” Until then, I honestly wasn’t happy about the completion of the expedition. I just had to hurry all the time. To the cable car, to the plane and to the train from the airport. But now I finally start to realize it. When I discuss all the experiences from my last days with Joanne, I am realizing how amazing this expedition was. There is definitely something about the quote from the movie Into the Wild: “Happiness is only real when shared.”

My tips for climbing the mountain Vorder Grauspitz:

In winter conditions there is a big risk of avalanches. Before leaving to the mountains check the current situation on the website of Swiss Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research.
Surprisingly, a winter ascent may be easier than in summer due to slippery stones and grass in summer.
GPS navigation with you is a must.
Chat with the employee of the cable car. He’s a very nice gentleman.
Recommended accommodation in Switzerland: Haus Meierhüsli in village Malans

View at the highest mountain of Switzerland - Dufourspitze

March 12, 2025 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest Swiss peak – Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa)

The most challenging mountain of the European Peaks project is the Swiss Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa). Climbing Dufourspitze, named after the Swiss founder of the Red Cross, requires even more physical and mental preparation than Mont Blanc. It requires all – proper acclimatization and experience in both rock and glacier climbing. Those who can cope with all these obstacles will be rewarded with unforgettable views. This article will give you all necessary information you need before your climb to the highest peak of Switzerland including description of the route, a map, practical information and my own experience from the summit. If you are looking for a local experienced mountain guide, I will help you out. At the end of the article, you will find more detailed tips.

What is the highest peak of Switzerland?

Many people wrongly think it’s Matterhorn (4478 m) but in fact it’s Dufourspitze with its elevation of 4634 m. Dufourspitze is the highest peak of the Monte Rosa massif so you can also sometimes find this name as the highest peak of Switzerland.

Important information for climbing Dufourspitze via the normal Swiss route

Short description of the ascent from Gornergrat: Demanding multi-day climb on rocks on glacier 
Essential equipment: Full climbing and glacier gear
Best time to visit: June - September (August, September best)
Camping allowed: No
Best accommodation at starting point: Gornergrat hotel with fantastic view over Matterhorn and Dufourspitze or more affordable hotel with spa and Matterhorn view in Zermatt
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Monte Rosa hut
Height of the peak: 4,634 m
Distance to the top: 12.4 km (one way without acclimatization)
Time to ascend from Gornergrat to Dufourspitze and back: Recommended 3 days + acclimatization (see itinerary below)
Water availability on the mountain: Monte Rosa hut
Difficulty level: ****** (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Valaisanne Lager Hell *** (6 stars maximum)

The most popular route to Dufourspitze (also called the normal Swiss route)

Starting Point: Zermatt, Switzerland:
- Most climbers begin their ascent from the town of Zermatt in Switzerland. Zermatt is a scenic car-free village which visitors typically reach by train. A car can be parked at Täsch.
Acclimatization:
- Before attempting Dufourspitze, climbers often spend a few days acclimatizing in the region. This may involve ascending smaller peaks or staying at high-altitude huts. An easy option can be Klein Matterhorn which can be reached by a cable car. From there it’s also possible to climb an easy 4,164 m high mountain Breithorn.
Approach to Monte Rosa Hut:
- The ascent to Dufourspitze usually starts at the Gornergrat railway station which you can reach comfortably by train. Buy your train tickets in advance to secure your spot. It is also a wonderful viewpoint from where you can marvel at Dufourspitze before your summit. If you have extra time, consider staying one night in Gornergrat hotel nearby the station with fantastic view, not only over Dufourspitze but also over Matterhorn. From Gornergrat, a long and scenic trek leads to the Monte Rosa Hut which is used as base camp for climbers.
Monte Rosa Hut (Hütte):
- Situated at an elevation of around 2,883 meters (9,459 feet), the Monte Rosa Hut is a popular starting point for ascending Dufourspitze. Climbers often spend a night here to further acclimatize before attempting the summit.
Sattel and Western Ridge:
- After long rock and glacier hike from the Monte Rosa hut, you’ll reach Sattel at 4,359 m from where you can see a very impressive view of the sharp crest of the West Ridge. That’s where the last part of the climb is leading. It’s the most difficult part of the whole summit. Proper equipment and experience is necessary. Once you pass the the final Western Ridge you’ll finally get to the summit of Dufourspitze.
Descent:
- The descent can be done in a day but many climbers choose to stay one more night at Monte Rosa hut before returning to Zermatt.

Map of the climb of Dufourspitze via the normal Swiss route

Ski touring itinerary to Dufourpitze

I climbed Dufourspitze in winter conditions on skis so my story below will talk about a little bit different route than the normal Swiss route. This was our itinerary:

Day 1: Ski touring from Klein Matterhorn to Monte Rosa Hut (Elevation climbed: 499 m)
Day 2: Ski touring from Monte Rosa Hut to Dufourspitze and back to Monte Rosa hut (Elevation climbed: 1,778 m)
Day 3: Ski touring from Monte Rosa to Zermatt (Elevation climbed: 200m)

My story of climbing the highest mountain of Switzerland – Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze)

I summited Dufourspitze as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. I was supposed to reach the Swiss highest peak in May and it was surprisingly very difficult to find a weather window. It took one week until finally a perfect weather gap showed up. It was supposed to be sunny and windless for 48 hours. Time to go!

The journey to Switzerland took me, my friend Petra and our guide a very long time from the Czech Republic but we had at least some time to get to know each other. We met just a week ago in a Czech Facebook climbing group!

It was clear that I would be the least experienced back-country skier. The mountain guide had been guiding people on back-country skis for thirty years and Petra is a skiing instructor who spends all her free time on back-country skis. Hopefully, my quadruple back country experience will be enough to handle their pace.

Driving from the Czech Republic to Switzerland was tiring. We arrived late at night, slept shortly and arrived early in the morning to the village of Täsch which is the last place you can reach by car on the way to Zermatt. There we took a taxi to one of the most famous villages in the Alps.

Time to acclimatize

View at Zermatt village and mountain Matterhorn — *Zermatt and Matterhorn*

We didn’t stay long in Zermatt. We planned to acclimatize and move to the Monte Rosa hut that day, so we quickly headed for the cable car station and bought a ticket for the Klein Matterhorn. It is the highest cable way station in Europe with its height of 3,883 m above the sea level. A perfect starting point for an acclimatization walk.

View at Zermatt from a cable car on the way to Klein Matterhorn — *Leaving Zermatt behind*

I was short of breath. Overcoming more than 2,000 elevation meters in a few minutes isn’t the easiest task for people’s lungs. I was getting used to the thin air while looking at skiers who were coming back to Zermatt on still perfect and almost empty slopes. Shouldn’t we rather go skiing?

View from Klein Matterhorn to Breithorn — *View from Klein Matterhorn*

In a few minutes my lungs got a bit used to the thin air, so I was ready to start our acclimatization skiing day. The plan was to traverse around the mountains Breithorn and Roccia Nera and then descend via the Schwärzegletscher glacier to the Monte Rosa hut where we will sleep before the subsequent summit day.

Beautiful mountain Breithorn — *Breithorn*

My first challenging off-piste skiing

We moved slowly to get used to the thin air. Fortunately, the journey was not long. It took us two hours until we reached the point from where we wil ski down. When I saw where we were going to go down, I thought to myself how much percent chance I had to survive this. Will an avalanche or a fall in a crevasse kill me? But we were with a mountain guide so I trusted his route selection.

The skiing was amazing. Until we reached the elevation of 3,300 m above sea level there was perfect powder snow. Then, the downhill was much more difficult since there was a layer of ice on the snow. I had to use the “plow position” most of the time. Nevertheless, we managed to descend the slope, and even managed to enjoy views of the Matterhorn and other sharp peaks of the Swiss Alps.

When we were almost down the glacier below the Monte Rosa Hut, Petra and our mountain guide noticed a shortcut. It looked great. If we manage to pass it we can skip climbing at least 200 elevation meters. At first I was glad. I don’t like unnecessary climbs. After a few meters, however, I saw what we have to descend: a rocky field covered with heavy wet snow. Is this a good idea?

End of the Dufourspitze climb?

Our mountain guide managed to reach the glacier without problems. I was following but then I fell for the first, second, third time. Fortunately, these were all controlled falls so I just shrugged it off and kept on skiing. I thought I could handle the downhill in the wet snow and continued down when one of my legs suddenly fell one meter deep in the snow. My leg got stuck in the snow and my face just fell straight down.

A skier is shoveling snow to find a lost pole — *Don’t shovel like this. It doesn’t work. It’s better not to be lazy and assemble it first*

I must have looked ridiculous and worse, I couldn’t get out of the position. My leg was stuck and I didn’t feel it. Does that mean that I lost it or that nothing happened to me? When Petra came to help me, it turned out that my leg is alive. She helped me to dig it out of the snow and I was ready to continue descending.

But then I realized I am missing one pole. Where is it? Petra and I started shoveling. We dug and dug but couldn’t find it. What now? Finally our mountain guide returned. I was hoping he would help us finding it but the leader said instead: “If you don’t remember at least roughly where it might have ended, it’s like looking for a needle in a haystack. You have no chance.” Of course, I had no idea so I sadly gave up on my pole. Hopefully I would find some solution to replace it.

We still had to climb a few elevation meters until the Monte Rosa Hut. The glacier towards the hut was already influenced by the afternoon sun so it was difficult to climb up. Even more for me, because I had just one pole.

Time to improvise

Sunset from Monte Rosa Hut and view over Matterhorn — *Sunset from Monte Rosa Hut*

We arrived to the Monte Rosa Hut just before sunset. I was super tired. Well, it makes sense. What would you expect after acclimatization at 3,800 meters, unsuccessful shoveling of roughly a wagon of snow and ascent of ca 500 altitude meters. I ate one Adventure Menu quickly and wanted to go to bed early but before going to bed I had to solve my pole problem. The shops in the Monte Rosa Hut are closed during the off season so I had to find an alternative. I walked around the hut when I suddenly saw my salvation: a broom! It was the perfect size. The same size like my remaining stick. Problem solved!

Alternative pole at Monte Rosa Hut — *My alternative pole*

After consulting with the only other group trying to ascend Dufourspitze the following day we decided to leave at 2:30 a.m. in the morning. Time to sleep.

But I couldn’t sleep. The risk of shared dormitories was once again manifested. Two of the six people snored loudly and my earplugs didn’t help. I rolled over and tried to fall asleep but in vain. After four hours of rolling, the alarm clock rang and everyone started preparing their breakfast. I gave up and went to eat too.

Summit day to Dufourspitze

Chicken tikka masala may sound like a weird breakfast at two in the morning but it tasted good and gave me the energy I needed. Then we quickly packed up our equipment and got ready for the summit. Dufourspitze is waiting.

Back country skiing climb to Dufourspitze at night with background of Matterhorn — *The beginning of our climb*

It was surprisingly warm at the hut but that was about to change soon. First we climbed relatively quickly and my broom stick worked well, so I didn’t cause much delay. The problems occurred from about 3,500 m above sea level. I wasn’t as well acclimatized as my friends but there was nothing to be done about it. We had to climb together. I just had to follow my pace and I hoped my friends wouldn’t freeze.

Skier enjoys sunrise and view to Matterhorn and other Swiss mountains — *Cold but beautiful sunrise*

The closer to sunrise was the colder it was. Unfortunately, the forecast was correct, −17 ° C was absolutely right. For the first time in my life I put on my expedition feather jacket on the actual climb (mostly I use it only during breaks or on top of mountains). Again, I hoped my friends wouldn’t freeze.

It was very cold but we had incredible views. I will never forget watching the first red sun rays covering Matterhorn and the surrounding mountains. Unfortunately, the sunshine didn’t reach us as the sun was behind the Monte Rosa massif.

Nothing for people having fear of heights

Crazy beautiful sunrise and view over Swiss mountains — *Crazy beautiful*

After five freezing hours we finally reached the Sattel ridge, where the bright sun warmed us up. Suddenly I felt pleasantly warm, just a bit scared of what is ahead. From now on we will have to climb a narrow and steep ridge. It was time to take off the skis, put on the crampons, tie in on the rope and continue on the steep ridge.

It was going well on the snow. The problem occurred when we had to start climbing the rocks. At that point I was really happy to have an experienced mountain guide with us. I would have turned around without him. I felt secure being on the rope.

Sharp climb of Swiss mountain Dufourspitze — *Time to start climbing*

I regretted not leaving my huge feather jacket and my large backpack with my skis. I felt very awkward during the climb but I was at least not cold. The ridge was very long and there were a few misleading horizons ahead. I thought several times that we must be on the top but there has always been a new one. The climb on the ridge took us over two hours. It was very challenging. Fortunately, we were lucky with the weather. The sun was warm and there was almost no wind. We finally reached the top at 11 am and enjoyed the well-deserved rest.

Deserved views from Dufourspitze

Happy climber on top of mountain Dufourspitze is taking a selfie — *Happy on the top*

Panorama view from mountain Dufourspitze 1 — *The views from the top are simply amazing*

Panorama view from mountain Dufourspitze 2 — *The views from the top are simply amazing*

Even though the views were amazing we didn’t stay on the top for a long time. We took a snack, took the necessary photographs, and decided to return. We still had a long way to go. The ridge was very difficult even during the descent. We returned to our skis as late as at 2 p.m. Then everything went much faster. We put our skis on and enjoyed the deserved descent back to the Monte Rosa Hut. In half an hour we managed to ski down 1,500 meters of altitude.

We wanted to take just a short meal and continue to Zermatt but the weather was against us. The sun was burning now. Compared to the morning −17 degrees, it had warmed by 40 degrees. The thermometer was showing 25°C, which meant that going downhill on the glacier to Zermatt would be dangerous. None of us wanted to fall into a crevasse so we stayed one more night at the Monte Rosa Hut.

View at mountain Dufourspitze — *Monte Rosa – Dufourspitze from below*

We slept twelve hours. We recharged our batteries and finally skied down back back to civilization. The glacier was still frozen in the morning so we could ski down for the entire 10 kilometers. When we passed the glacier we still had to hike an additional 8 kilometer along the glacier river. It was also tough in ski boots and with skis on the back but we managed to get into Zermatt safely. In Zermatt we were welcomed by draft beer and tasty garlic soup in restaurant Furi. We made it!

My tips for climbing the mountain Dufourspitze:

Climbing Dufourspitze is even more challenging than Mont Blanc. Experience with belaying not only on the glacier, but also on the rock is a necessity.
Acclimatization before the climb is necessary too.
Choose a mountain guide you trust.
Don’t bring a large jacket and backpack on the final Sattel ridge. It feels very clumsy.
Best accommodation at starting point: Gornergrat hotel with fantastic view over Matterhorn and Dufourspitze or more affordable hotel with spa and Matterhorn view in Zermatt
Nearest accommodation/food supply on the way: Monte Rosa hut

Book a mountain guide to climb Dufourspitze

Climbing Dufourspitze requires a high level of skill, experience, and preparation due to its technical difficulty, which involves glacier pass, rock climbing, and navigating crevasses. Weather conditions can change rapidly, creating dangerous situations, and therefore it’s necessary to have a local guide or a guide who already summited Dufourspitze for safety.

The route to the summit is complex, and guides have the expertise to navigate it efficiently. They also provide essential safety measures, including first aid and rescue procedures. Guides ensure climbers have the appropriate gear and know how to use it, manage the physical demands of the climb, and maximize the chances of a successful ascent.

If you need help finding a climbing guide, let me know. I partner with local skilled guides which can take you to the top of Dufourspitze safely. Please, fill in the form with information and I will connect you with the a matching guide.