EU Peaks Archives - The Best Viewpoints

May 4, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 27: Croatia – Dinara (Sinjal)

Croatia has become a very popular seaside destination recently, not only among Czechs. However, only few tourists visit the local mountains, which is a great pity. Croatian mountains are beautiful. The highest point on Croatia Dinara was named after the Dinaric Mountains, a 700-kilometer-long mountain range system that spans over almost all the countries of the former Yugoslavia.

Date of summit: 12th August 2018 18:40 
Traveling mode: Hiking 
Height of the peak: 1,831m 
Hiking distance: 7.93 km 
Time to ascend to Halti: 3 hours 40 minutes 
Elevation climbed: 1238m
Map of my hiking journey to Dinara: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Karlovačko ** (6 stars maximum)

Sweden’s highest mountain Kebnekaise was supposed to be the last one on my expedition EU Peaks. Due to the accident in Scotland, however, I lost a week so I eventually had to skip Dinara. In the end, I decided to climb it 12 days after the originally expected end date of the expedition.

I had climbing partners even this time. My brother Štěpán and his friend Maruška decided to join me. We had all visited Croatia many times, like most Czechs, but we never visited Croatian mountains. How will they be?

We arrived to the city of Knin which is known for the war between the Serbs and the Croats. Fortunately, the houses destroyed or damaged in the war have either disappeared or have been reconstructed and the town in the foothills of Dinara mountains became a nice touristic destination.

Bring a lot of water

View over Dinara — *You can see Dinara already from long distance*

We took a healthy lunch (a plate full of seafood) and drove by car to the starting point of our hike which is nearby the small village Glavaš. There was a small parking lot where we left our car and immediately started our hike. We passed the ruins of an old fortress and continued on a well marked path. It was really hot and we soon drank all our water supplies. Fortunately, there was a small water supply at a height of 1000 meters above sea level so we could fill up our stomachs and bottles. We enjoyed a moment in the shade of the trees nearby the water supply.

After the short break, we continued and soon reached a shelter for mountaineers in case of bad weather. However, it looked inside more like a dormitory for the homeless so I do not recommend sleeping here overnight. On the contrary, it might be a good idea to bring a tent. The surrounding meadows are beautiful.

Maps in Croatia don’t work 100%

Nearby the shelter there is a crossroad. My brother and I checked the map and decided to go straight. This path looked more attractive on the map, heading to a nice little church in the rock on the way. The problem was that the path ended after another 300 meters. We had two choices – to go 200 elevation meters down and head on to the left or continue up according to the map.

*Left was the correct answer so we chose straight*

Since the route was marked on the map with the same thick line as the one on the left, we decided to continue. This made the journey more interesting. It was a fun off-road hike but my brother didn’t share this opinion and called me a few “beautiful” Czech words. In the end we overcame all obstacles on the way including bushes and rocks and we reached the peak successfully.

Despite the delay, we got up early enough to enjoy a beautiful sunset over the Adriatic Sea. I quickly pulled out the Czech flag to make a nice picture of the last mountain of my EU Peaks challenge and started taking pictures so that I could enjoy the view with my brother and Maruška with the peak beer Karlovačko.

*Summit drone selfie! The last EU Peak conquered*!

My tips for visiting the mountain Dinara:

Take plenty of water with you, especially in summer. It is very hot in the Croatian mountains and there is only one water supply on the way.
If you like biking you can also consider visiting mountain Sveti Jure (1762m) nearby the city Makarska. This mountain is reachable by bike from sea level and offers excellent views.

October 8, 2019 • 0 Comment

Peak 24: France/Italy – Mont Blanc

The highest mountain of the European Union, Mont Blanc, was to be the hardest test of my expedition. I had already climbed the mountain three years ago, but it was with an experienced guide that time. This time I had to rely just on my and my friends’ skills. For the first time I took the so-called Three Monts route from Aiguille du Midi to the top, which was until then the most demanding climb of my life. This time we chose the simplest option, namely via the Gouter Hut. Which route is better?

Date of summit: 21st August 2018 9:15 
Traveling mode: Alpinism
Height of the peak: 4,809m 
Hiking distance: 3.4 km (Day 1) 
Hiking distance: 7.42 km (Day 2) 
Time to ascend from Nid d'Aigle to Tête Rousse Hut: 2 hours 02 minutes 
Time to ascend from Tête Rousse Hut to Mont Blanc: 6 hours 53 minutes 
Elevation climbed: 750 (Day 1)
Elevation climbed: 1703 (Day 2) 
Map of my hiking journey from Nid d'Aigle to Tête Rousse Hut : Movescount
Map of my hiking journey from Tête Rousse Hut to Mont Blanc: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Mont Blanc Laroisse **** (6 stars maximum)

The deadliest mountain in the world

After the accident in Scotland, I thought it was the complete end of my expedition. When I later decided to continue, I promised at least at home that I would omit the dangerous Mont Blanc. After the car accident not only those at home were worried about me, but even I was afraid myself, especially when it came to “The deadliest mountain in the World”, where over 6000 people have already died. Therefore, the plan was to conquer all remaining mountains except Mount Blanc itself. I cancelled my plans and told my friends who planned to climb Mont Blanc with me about it. Instead I planned the ascent of Dinara, the highest mountain in Croatia.

*Aiguille du Midi viewed from the Gouter Hut during sunset*

However, as it sometimes happens, the circumstances changed. While hiking on the Alpine peaks I got enthusiastic for traveling again and I was looking forward to going to Croatia. My friend Mara, however, was so tired after climbing Triglav that he refused to go to Croatia with me. So, I was thinking what to do next. I didn’t want to go to Croatia on my own and I had six days left before my flight to the highest mountain in Finland. My flight was scheduled from Geneva and my friends Alča and Hozna were trying to persuade me to join them for the climb to Mont Blanc. Since I had successfully climbed all the Alpine highest mountains so far, I gained enough confidence back. It was a perfect weather forecast, too. Great opportunity. Those circumstances finally convinced me. I decided to climb Mont Blanc.

Gouter Route to Mont Blanc

Our trip started in a nice accommodation in the village of Saint Gervais-Les Bains right next to the train heading towards Mont Blanc. We slept well and we departed by this train at 8:30 towards the starting point of our expedition Le Nid d’aigle.

Mont Blanc Tramway taking us to Le Nid d'aigle — *Mont Blanc Tramway taking us to Le Nid d’aigle*

Since camping on the trail via Gouter Hut was forbidden at the moment and still is, we had a plan to hike to the Tête Rousse Hut, sleep there, the next day climb to Gouter Hut, acclimatize for a day around, sleep over at the Gouter Hut and we planned to summit Mont Blanc during the third day. We got very lucky that there were some vacant beds on both huts, despite booking them very last minute. In fact, the huts had been sold out for a half a year but we were saved by some last minute cancellations.

View from the the Tête Rousse Hut — View from the Tête Rousse Hut

Dangerous Grand Couloir

During the first day we reached the Tête Rousse Hut. We had lunch – local cheese, which smelled like sore feet, but it was probably the best I had ever eaten. During the lunch we were looking at a scary Grand Couloir, which would wait for us on the way up to the Gouter Hut. Rocks kept falling down roughly every minute. We didn’t like that at all. The danger was obvious. Therefore, we decided to get up early in the morning before the sun started shining on the slope and while it was frozen. This should eliminate the risk of accidents.

In the end, we decided to wake up as early as at 1:30am to have a safe walk through this probably most dangerous part of the expedition and even more time for more acclimatization the following day. That’s why I also went to sleep right after lunch. It still seemed that I had been a lot exhausted and I had lacked sleep since the whole previous trip.

Grand Couloir (Mont Blanc) on the way to Gouter Hut — *Grand Couloir (Mont Blanc)* on the way to Gouter Hut

My friends hiked up the slope to see where we should pass the couloir at night. I thank them very much for this check. It saved us a lot of time in the middle of the night. Two hours later they were in the hut and fell asleep too. Four hours of quality sleep were handy for us. We woke up refreshed. We didn’t have much work left that day, just to pack up, eat a kilo of pasta and go back to sleep.

Tough Alpine start

Apart from us, our neighbors went to sleep, too. Unfortunately. This time, the risk of dormitories proved its strength. One of our neighbors sounded like a carefully sharpened chainsaw. We did not understand that he didn’t wake himself up with his snoring. Unfortunately, he was the only one in the dorm who managed to sleep. At that moment I was really grateful for our afternoon nap. I didn’t close my eyes till the alarm rang.

*Climbing from Tete Rousse Hut to Gouter Hut (picture taken on the way back)*

We woke up at 1am at night, had a quick breakfast and we started to climb up during the starlight. It was surprisingly warm outside. All we needed was a long sleeve t-shirt. Soon we got to the couloir, where, fortunately, no stones were falling at night, and we overcame it without any trouble. The introductory part of the journey reminded me of the ascent of Triglav. It was similarly steep, similarly carefully protected by steel ropes and under us there was a similarly steep slope. There was no need for belaying and tying up, so we didn’t waste time. Only a fool would take this path without a helmet, though. Rocks could still fall at any time. Unfortunately, we met many of these fools along the way.

The climb went really well for my friends. Unfortunately, I felt a little worse. That delicious cheese apparently did not settle well in my stomach. I did not feel good and was looking forward to reaching Gouter Hut to have some rest. I secretly hoped that my friends felt alike, so we could shorten the planned acclimatization and go to sleep early.

Putting crampons on next to the Gouter Hut and time to acclimatize for Mont Blanc — *Putting crampons on next to the Gouter Hut and time to acclimatize*

Midnight snack saved me

We stopped at the Gouter Hut. We were hungry and we had a smaller snack. But I saw in my friends’ faces that there was no chance to talk about quitting climbing. We got rid of a part of the load, which we would not be needed for the acclimatization, we put on the crampons, harnesses, we tied up the rope, picked up the ice axes and we started to go upwards. We would see how far we would climb.

Sunrise over Mont Blanc

Suddenly, as if by magic, all of us were doing perfectly. After the climb to the Dome du Gouter we were in perfect time, so we decided: We would try to climb to the Mont Blanc itself. It started to get brighter and we finally glimpsed the top of Mont Blanc. This majestic mountain rises at least five hundred metres higher than the surrounding peaks. Really beautiful. After a few minutes the sun began to rise. It was a spectacle. The first rays reached the top of Mont Blanc, and in a few minutes, they fell on us. At that moment it would have been worth stopping the time. These are the moments that made me undertake the expedition. This spectacle gave us so much energy that we would surely jump to the top as alpine chamois.

*View over Mont Blanc from Dome du Gouter*

And indeed, we did. The sun was supplying us with energy, and we were progressing great. We just had respect from the final ridge but without a reason. The wind was not blowing and the path was great, so everything went without a problem. We were not in a hurry. To rush would not even be possible, because the air was sparse. After about every twenty steps we took a half-minute break to replenish the oxygen, and in the meantime, we enjoyed the views of the surroundings.

On top of the Alps

After another hour we were already standing on the top. It was warm up there. It was blowing only a faint breeze and we enjoyed the sunshine. Surprisingly, the view from the top is not as beautiful as on the way up. At the very top there is a small plateau, and thus the horizon obscures the views. But when a person steps a little down aside, there is a beautiful view of both the Italian and French Alps. I saw even the path I took last time. But I was glad I hadn’t taken it this time. The path via Gouter Hut is much easier, and I think that anyone who is trained, acclimatised, properly equipped and who would not underestimate the weather could make it.

On top of Mont Blanc — *We made it! Mont Blanc reached!*

Unfortunately, a large percentage of tourists on the Mont Blanc doesn’t have proper equipment and enough experience or disregards the dangers of the weather. They do not only risk their health, but also others’. We could have convinced ourselves of this during our descent. After another hour, when we arrived back to Dome du Gouter, black clouds started to approach. It was clear that a thunderstorm would soon come, exactly as the weather forecast had said the day before. Despite this change of weather, however, we met several other groups heading upwards. We were worried especially about the last group of five Japanese tourists who didn’t really look like they knew what they were doing. They didn’t even have a rope. Our warning, however, did not interest them. Stubbornly, they continued.

The deadliest mountain in the world

Similarly, we couldn’t believe our eyes when, just before the Tete de la Rousse Hut, when we were passing again the dangerous couloir, where the stones were falling in the afternoon without a stop. Here we met a group of six Swedes who wore no helmets. What happened with the famous Swedish saying “security goes first”?

There is a reason why people say that Mont Blanc is the most dangerous mountain in the world. It’s not because of the technical difficulty, but because of irresponsible tourists. Over 6 000 people have died on Mont Blanc. When I saw the approach of some of them, I understood that an accident is not quite a coincidence. The climb to Mont Blanc definitely requires both respect and experience. Hopefully nothing happened to either the Swedes or the Japanese.

To end on a more positive note though, I’d like to mention write a few more sentences about our accommodation at the Gouter Hut. The overnight stay is definitely the most expensive I have experienced in dormitories anywhere in the world. Views of the sunrise and sunset from the hut are, however, absolutely fantastic. Even here it is definitely worth to spend one night. Look at the pictures.

Sunset watching at the Gouter Hut — *Sunset watching from the Gouter Hut*

Sunrise at Gouter Hut — *Sunrise at the Gouter Hut*

My tips for climbing the mountain Mont Blanc:

Proper acclimatisation and good weather conditions are the key.
If you are a beginner, you should definitely not consider the ascent without a mountain guide or a friend who has experience in movement and safety on a glacier. Keep in mind that Mont Blanc is the deadliest mountain in the world and you should behave accordingly.
If you are a beginner, choose the so-called Classic route via Gouter Hut. Book at least two nights in advance at the Gouter Hut or Tete de la Rousse. If you require accommodation in a dormitory, you must make a reservation at least half a year in advance. If a tent rental at the Tete de la Rousse Hut is enough for you, you can be more flexible. I recommend this option because you might sleep better. There will be less snoring people around you.
If you are an experienced mountaineer, try the Three Peaks route. It is a very demanding ascent, but with fewer tourists and there are no tenting restrictions.

September 25, 2019 • 0 Comment

PEAK 23: Slovenia – Triglav

Triglav Mountain is very popular among Slovenians. Apart from the fact that the mountain itself is on the state flag, there is also an unwritten law that every Slovenian should climb to the top at least once in a lifetime. I was respectful of the mountain because I was unable to conquer it for the first time when I was 12 years old. How did it go this time?

Date of summit: 17th August 2018 6:00 
Traveling mode: Hiking 
Height of the peak: 2,864m 
Hiking distance: 6.85 km (Day 1) 
Hiking distance: 1.52 km (Day 2) 
Time to ascend From Aljažev Dom to Chata na Kredarici: 4 hours 25 minutes 
Time to ascend from Chata na Kredarici to Triglav: 1 hour
Map of my hiking journey to  Aljažev Dom to Chata na Kredarici: Movescount
Map of my hiking journey from  Chata na Kredarici to Triglav: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: *****  (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Union Black Unfiltered ***** (6 stars maximum)

I took a night train to Slovenia after the successful summiting of the mountain Zugspitze. I arrived in the Slovenian city of Jesenice already at 5 a.m. so I was still very sleepy. That’s why I didn’t hesitate, and I unfolded my sleeping mat on the ground at Jesenice train station. I was so glad I wasn’t the only weirdo. Two Spaniards joined me, so I had no regrets to spend another night as a homeless man.

After two hours of pleasant sleep I went to a local bakery. Slanac for 0.40 EUR (typical local savory pastries) and krafne for 0.60 EUR (a typical local donut) stunned me after experiencing Western European prices. I had a great feast, which made waiting for my friend Mara more pleasant. Together we were supposed to reach the next summit.

Demanding Tominsek route to Triglav

He arrived shortly and we immediately moved to the hut of Aljažev Dom, which is the best-known starting point for the mountain Triglav. The hike began roughly. We chose the more demanding Tominsek route, which offers both beautiful via ferrata and traverses across a deep slope.

Steep parts on the via ferrata on the way to Triglav — *Some parts are very steep on the via ferrata on the way to Triglav*

The nature of the Julian Alps still stayed in my memory. Many times, during the hike I remembered my first visit. When I was twelve, my parents and their friends with their children decided to summit Triglav. However, they made a major mistake. They decided to ascend and descend Triglav in one single day.

Climbing Triglav in one day is stupid

Why the rush? For less trained individuals (which they definitely were that time, sorry mum) and especially for children, it can be a too big challenge. I and the other children only climbed up to the Kredarica Hut, where we waited for our parents to return from the summit of Triglav. Or better said if they’d come back at all. In my child’s eyes, I didn’t give it a big chance. The thunderclouds on the surrounding hills looked pretty scary. Fortunately, the parents probably knew what they were doing and successfully returned from the top of Triglav.

That’s why I and my friend Mara decided to divide the climb in two days. In the end, the opening ascent of 1700 meters of altitude took us 4.5 hours and we were at the Kredarica Hut. There was no mountain spring water along the way, so we were very thirsty.

The cosy Kredarica Hut

We immediately attacked the local bar and ordered a beer. After a few zips of the beer we felt refreshed and started to talk to local tourists. We were particularly interested in why the Slovenians were repeatedly talking about some “otrok” and pointing onto their children (Slovenian word “otrok” means “slave” in Czech). We asked what the “otrok” meant. The father in the family we talked to proudly pointed to his child: “This is my otrok in Slovenian.” What a lucky kid. How beautiful translations can be across Slavic languages.

The Kredarica Hut had a pleasant atmosphere. At each table tourists planned the climb for the following day while eating their dinner and drinking beer. Fortunately, it was forbidden to “kadit” at the table, as the signs on the wall showed (Slovenian word “kadit” means “to smoke” in English, in Czech it means “to shit”). Those who wanted to smoke had to go out (we were glad for that). I would say that the father of people of Slavic nations had made a lot of verbal puns from the mentioned languages.

Amazing sunset over Triglav

From the funny conversation with the locals, we were only disturbed by the sunset, which drew us out with its radiant golden color. And what a view it was! In the end, it showed up to be one of the most beautiful sunsets of my entire expedition. The clouds were flowing over the saddle and it created a beautiful show.

We really enjoyed this view. On the other hand, we were concerned about what kind of climb was waiting for us the following day. The initial part of the climb looked very steep. Is it possible to establish a safe route in such terrain? Mara even declared that he was not going anywhere the next day. To my remark that even my mom conquered the mountain he couldn’t give up though : “When your mom made it, I must too.”

*Expect very steep climb before reaching Triglav*

Final via ferrata to Triglav

After the sunset show, we went to bed so we could get up at 5 in the morning to climb to the top of Triglav and catch the sunrise from the summit.

The morning wake up was difficult, but it definitely paid off. We avoided the crowds of cheering tourists climbing to the top. On the way to Triglav, we did not meet any single tourist who would slow us down on the narrow via ferrata, or would even threaten us. The ascent to the summit was ideally timed for the sunrise. It was a real beauty from the summit. We could not wish for better weather and we had the whole of Slovenia under us. It was great visibility, so we could even see the distant Grossglockner in Austria.

*The top of Triglav during spectacular sunrise*

The way down took us half an hour longer than the ascent. The tourists started to form similar queues as I experienced earlier on Grossglockner. This time we didn’t mind though. The sun was shining, it was not cold, and the views were still breathtaking. When we returned to Kredarica Hut, the weather was perfect. To celebrate the ascent, we fell asleep on sunny benches for an hour.

Never ending descent

After a well-deserved nap, we headed back to the valley. For the descent we chose the second route this time – Prag route. It was supposed to be less steep and therefore more gentle for the knees. However, it was very similar to the first route in my opinion. While descending I chose my favorite method – the quicker you go, the faster you will have it behind you, and I managed to run down the whole hill in 2h45 minutes. I waited for my colleague while having a refreshing beverage.

Half an hour passed, then another hour passed, and Mara was still on the way. I remembered my mom 15 years earlier as she returned in the darkness and could hardly walk. Will a similar fate await even Mara? After an hour and a half, he finally managed to come back, apparently tired as hell. What’s important, we’ve both made it.

Relax at romantic Bled

After a quick snack, we headed to the renowned Bled Lake to relax. We weren´t keen on waking up very early in the morning, but we did it in the end. The sunrise over Lake Bled with its picturesque isle and the church in the middle, sounded tempting. And it was worth it. A beautiful spectacle. I haven’t seen many more romantic places. I understand why Bled is a popular place for lovers. Around the lake we met more or less only couples in love holding each other´s hands. Pity that I was at Bled only with Mara and not my girlfriend that time.

My tips for climbing the mountain Triglav:

Stay over in the Kredarica Hut. There is no hurry to climb Triglav in just one day. You will avoid an afternoon storm which is very frequent during summer and you will be able to enjoy beautiful sunset from Kredarica.
Wake up very early for the summit day. You will avoid the crowds.
If you have an extra day, spend it around the lake Bled.

September 20, 2019 • 0 Comment

PEAK 22: Germany – Zugspitze

I don’t know if it was the intention of the Germans, but the name of the mountain Zugspitze corresponds to reality. Zug means train and it indicates that it is possible to get to the top completely without using energy thanks to a cable car. Unfortunately. Zugspitze is a beautiful mountain with perfect views, but the amount of tourists going up is spoiling the atmosphere.

Date of summit: 15th August 2018 11:50 
Traveling mode: Hiking 
Height of the peak: 2,962m 
Hiking distance: 17.31 km (Day 1) 
Hiking distance: 4.66 km (Day 2) 
Time to ascend From Ga-Pa to Knorrhütte: 5 hours 22 minutes 
Time to ascend from Knorrhütte to Zugspitze: 2 hours 28 minutes 
Map of my hiking journey to Ga-Pa to Knorrhütte: Movescount (I had wrong settings, inaccurate) 
Map of my hiking journey from Knorrhütte to Zugspitze: Movescount (I had wrong settings, inaccurate) 
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Aecht Schlenkerla ***** (6 stars maximum)

I took an epic road to Germany by train from Innsbruck. The road led through a beautiful alpine landscape. In addition to this beauty there was a thunderstorm, so the mountains were even more dramatic. When I arrived in Ga-Pa, the change in the weather took its toll. The temperature dropped by 20 degrees, and I started quickly freezing in my shorts.

It was great that the ordered hotel was nearby. After 15 minutes of walking I got to the most beautiful accommodation of the whole journey so far. The hotel looked like a castle, no exaggeration. And even the staff behaved according to that. I got some champagne as a proper welcome, and after the formalities we followed to a beautiful room. I did not hesitate and immediately jumped into the soft bed.

Hotel Zugspitze — *My room in the castle hotel*

After half an hour of relaxing, Björn, a friend of mine, arrived and timed his arrival just for a prepared dinner. I pulled out the most decent clothes I had (shorts and a short-sleeved T-shirt) and set out to test the 5-course Bavarian dinner. Such dinners could be more often on my table during my expedition. I really enjoyed it.

Partnach route to Zugspitze

After an unusually long sleep, we headed for breakfast where we finally started to plan our summit to Zugspitze. You can get to the top in several ways. Unfortunately, the simplest option, namely the use of the cable car is used by most people. My opinion, however, is that cable cars are enemies of the mountains, so this way was not possible. Another and for me the most appealing option was the shortest but the steepest route via ferrata. Unfortunately, this route was not suitable due to unfavorable weather forecasts. It’s not the smartest choice to climb the rocks in the rain. The simplest walking route I ruled out mainly because it leads from Austria and so the last option won. 21 km long hike directly from Garmisch to Zugspitze with an elevation of 2000m.

We headed out at 11 a.m. and the maps suggested that the journey would take 10 hours. We were supposed to be at the top just before sunset. The journey began above my expectations. At first, I was disappointed that I had to pay 5 EUR admission for some ravine, but after the entry I did not regret it for a minute. Honestly, this gorge is even more interesting and dramatic than the famous Caminito del Rey (which I saw in Spain). A wild river modeled a deep rocky canyon. The dramatic image of the morning was amplified by the morning thunderstorm, so the water not only flowed in the river but was also dripping everywhere from the peaks of the rocks. I give my warmest compliments to the trail builders for what they have managed to create for tourists here.

Heavy rains are not fun

After this marvelous introduction, a long, boring period came with almost zero elevation. In order not to get too bored, the nature prepared a heavy rain for us. At that moment we longed only after a hut, where we could hide and get some energy. But it occurred not earlier than after long 10 km… We came to the Bockhütte Hut completely soaked. The mood was improved as late as when we filled the tank in form of a local dark wheat beer. Simply perfect. I wish that brewers in Czech Republic and Sweden visited Bavaria and learned to brew this luxurious beer.

Simply amazing Weizenbier on the way to Zugspitze — *Simply amazing Weizenbier*

From this hut the nature started to vary more and get even more beautiful. The woods began to thin and we began to enjoy beautiful views of the surrounding peaks of the German Alps. The path rose slowly but surely higher and I saw how Björn was looking more and more tired with every meter of altitude. I tried to motivate him, but without success. Unfortunately, his talks about his previous training were not entirely true. It was soon clear that we had no chance of getting to the Zugspitze at this rate.

Our last break before ascend to Zugspitze — *Our last break before ascend*

Proper training is a must

We passed another hut where we had a small snack and the first steep climb was in front of us. When I saw Björn’s pace, I started to worry. Will we get at least to the Knorr hut under the Zugspitze before it’s dark?

I went first to explore the terrain and, after a short walk, stopped to wait for Björn. He was apparently not coming. I waited for about 15 minutes and Björn was still not in sight. What if something happened to him? So I went back and after a few minutes Björn appeared. But I started to worry about him, so I decided to lighten his load in his backpack. Unfortunately, Björn without food and a two-liter bottle of full water was not faster.

In addition, the clouds began to descend quickly, and after a while the first drops fell. My backpack was really heavy now, so I went ahead again. When the distance between me and Björn grew longer, the clouds descended so low that we could not see anything. Hopefully Björn wouldn´t panic and would continue his journey.

Clouds slowly getting lower in German Alps — *Clouds slowly getting lower*

I didn’t want to let him go alone in the fog, so I went to find him back again. After a while I found him but he was this time completely without energy. The next hut was supposed to be only 1 km away according to the online map. However, I feared that the heavy rain we had witnessed in the morning could come back again, so I just grabbed the whole Björn’s backpack and went up with both backpacks.

Unfortunately, Björn without a backpack was still not faster than Jarda with two. Carrying two backpacks was not quite comfortable, so I raised the pace to make it as fast as possible. Fortunately, the hut emerged from the fog after half an hour. I waited another 15 minutes for Björn and luckily the fog finally spit him out, too. We made it. Not to the top, but at least to the Knorr hut under the Zugspitze, where Björn would be able to relax.

Recharging energy at Knorrhütte

We sat down in the restaurant and ordered a beer. I couldn´t withstand it and I confronted Björn. One cannot say that he is in good shape when he is not. Björn told me before the trip that he had been training several times in the mountains before and he was always one of the fastest in the group. But the reality was different. If I had known that, we could have chosen an easier route. Had the weather been even worse, something could have happened. When you go to the mountains, you must know if you will manage. Fortunately, everything turned out well. I just knew it didn’t have to…

The next morning during sunrise it was still foggy, so we got on the road at 8 o´clock in the morning. After another 500 meters of elevation, Björn rationally chose to simplify the journey to the top and took a cable car. The weather, unlike the previous day, was favorable, so I could take up a rocky path backed by a steel rope. I would compare this journey to the Tatra Mountains. Well-secured, no overexposed moments. I think there’s no need for belaying in nice weather.

Busy top of Zugspitze

Björn got to the top sooner of course and waited with two typical white sausages and wheat beers. Thanks, Björn for this tasty reward. The Bavarian kitchen – that´s something I love. However, the disadvantage of the Zugspitze peak showed too. And that is the cable car. Tourists who probably had been in the mountains for the first time took a lift to the summit.

According to their clothes, I’d rather think they were going to either a gala dinner or to a beach. They didn’t seem to understand that it was going to be cold in almost three thousand meters above sea level. They topped this smart behavior when they tried to get to the nearby summit, which can only be reached through a short, but interesting via ferrata. I just feared for some of the girls wearing high heels to fall from a few-hundred-meter-high cliff. Fortunately, my expectations were not confirmed, and so the ladies were nicely matching the fully equipped mountain climbers at the top cross.

Valuable moment - noone on the top of Zugspitze — *Valuable moment – noone on the top of Zugspitze*

When I finally got through the crowd of tourists, I could enjoy a breathtaking view. The clouds had just spread out, and I got to see a deep valley with arguably the largest German glacier. However, the view did not last for a long time, and I was too slow to pick up my camera, so I just have this picture of dense milk covering Zugspitze.

*View over the end station of the cable car from the top of Zugspitze*

We decided not to walk down. We love our knees and the journey would take another 8 hours. So, we decided to take the “enemy” cable car. The ticket for 33 EUR hurt, but that´s life.

*View over Zugspitze from the start of the cable car*

My tips for the mountain Zugspitze:

Book your accommodation on the top of Zugspitze. If you do so you can enjoy precious time when there are no tourists on the top when the cable car is closed.
Try the via ferrata if it is nice weather. I am very sad I didn’t try it.

August 6, 2019 • 0 Comment

PEAK 21: Austria – Grossglockner

Grossglockner was one of the toughest challenges of the whole European Peaks expedition. You have to cross a glacier on the way up and the last part is very exposed so securing on rope is essential. It was also the first mountain after I was in the car accident in Scotland so I was pretty nervous. Luckily, I found the best climbing partners so the experience was amazing. Follow my climb to the highest point of Austria.

Date of summit: 12th August 2018 8:00 
Traveling mode: Hiking 
Height of the peak: 3,798m 
Hiking distance: 8,12 km (Day 1) 
Hiking distance: 1 km (Day 2) 
Time to ascend to Erzhog Johann Hütte: 6 hours 
Time to ascend from Erzhog Johann Hütte to Grossglockner: 3 hours 
Map of my hiking journey to Erzhog Johann Hütte: Movescount (I had wrong settings, inaccurate) 
Map of my hiking journey from Erzhog Johann Hütte to Grossglockner: Movescount (I had wrong settings, inaccurate) 
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Edelweiss Dunkel ***** (6 stars maximum)

After the accident in Scotland I was sure my expedition was over. I lost all my equipment and I was very depressed. It is difficult to describe the feeling but I was just lying on my bed with negative thoughts about what happened and what could happen. I didn’t have any motivation to do anything, felt hopeless and didn’t know what to do next. Should I just cancel my remaining holiday and go back to work? Should I stay a bit at home to recover?

Amazing support from family and friends helped me to set out again

People around me couldn’t help me either. I had to make some decision myself. The problem was that I was not able to do that. I was so desperate that I visited a psychologist for the first time in my life. We had a long discussion and the psychologist found out that I actually deep inside wanted to continue and finish the remaining mountains. She found out the most important thing: I hate giving up.

As I said I didn’t even think about continuing after the accident because I was scared about failing and I didn’t want to let others down again. But it was true. I just didn’t want to give up. The meeting brought the right spark for my decision. I would do all my best to continue and to finish the expedition!

The highest mountain of Austria - Grossglockner — *Next mountain to reach – Grossglockner*

On the one hand, it was a wise decision. I still had all the tickets booked and many friends were waiting for our appointed climbs. On the other hand: was it even possible? I didn’t have any equipment and almost no money. But I decided to give it a try. I posted on social media that I need help and what equipment I am looking for. The response was amazing. I managed to borrow and rent all the equipment I lost within just 24 hours. Only thanks to my amazing family and friends around me I regained the lost trust and I believed again I can make it. That assured me. I should get back to the mountains.

My gear fixed in 24 hours — *Expedition equipment fixed in 24 hours*

Grossglockner is one of the most challenging mountains

I quickly packed all the new equipment and set out on the trip. Let’s climb Grossglockner! I met my friends Martin and Stefan in Austria and we continued together to the car park at Lucknerhaus. That’s where our two day climb started.

Looking stupid in my mum's sunglasses — *My mum even lent me her glasses (she has more or less the same dioptres). I looked like an idiot but it worked. Let the journey begin.*

At the beginning it was a very easy hike with stunning views. We expected potential difficulties after the hut Städlhütte because there is the beginning of the glacier. However, finding the way was very easy thanks to great visibility. The glacier was quite dirty but at least there were no dangerous cracks. The traverse over the glacier took only about an hour. Then we only had a short via ferrata in front of us and we soon reached the hut Erzhog Johann Hütte.

*Quickly melting glacier under Grossglockner*

Erzhog Johann Hütte is a very cosy place to stay. We had a great dinner there and even better beer. Unfortunately, we had no view because clouds arrived. Instead of views over the fog, we rather went to bed on time. Next morning we had to wake up early.

Wrong weather forecast sent us into freezing fog

The alarm clock rang at 4 am. Our plan was to catch the sunrise on the top of Austria. We started the climb in the darkness and dense fog. Unfortunately, this was again a time when the forecast was completely wrong. Luckily, we were not the first ones climbing up so we could follow a path in the glacier. It took us about an hour to pass the glacier and then the true climbing began.

Unfortunately, it was still very foggy so the navigation was very difficult. This time there was even no path so it was even more difficult to find the correct way up. We got lost several times which meant an hour delay. Luckily, more and more people were showing up coming from the hut so it was subsequently easier to follow the correct route.

The view opened up only for a very short but beautiful moment on the way to Grossglockner — *The view opened up only for a very short but beautiful moment*

Due to the delay, we lost the opportunity to catch sunrise on the top but it didn’t really matter. The clouds were still occupying Grossglockner. At least, we were back on the correct route so the climb got easier.

Grossglockner needs traffic lights

Suddenly, the visibility improved a bit and we realized we are already on the final ridge. That time, the first climbers started to return from the summit as well. However, that was the beginning of our worst Grossglockner experience.

It was very exposed on the ridge and there were almost no places where you can pass a climber from the opposite direction. The queues started to form and they became very long in a while. Administrators of the Grossglockner route should consider building there traffic lights. There were simply too many people. We had to wait sometimes even twenty minutes at a time. The rocks were covered with frost and the wind was getting stronger with every elevation meter. During such a long waiting time you will get cold. We started to freeze.

*Crazy queue on the way to Grossglockner*

Finally, the first 30 climbers overcame the narrow passage leading from the top and we could finally continue ascending. Our hands were frozen but the climb let us warm up. Luckily, the top was already not far. We soon spotted the cross on the top emerging from the clouds. In the end it took us three and half hours to reach the summit. Unfortunately, it was still cloudy so we had no view.

If you want to climb Grossglockner avoid summer weekends

On the way down, the situation from the way up repeated several times. Queues really ruined the overall experience of our climb. The worst were some irresponsible groups which refused to wait. Instead they were hurrying up and putting others in risky situations. Next time I would never climb Grossglockner during the weekend again.

After descending about 200 meters, finally the weather improved. The clouds disappeared and we finally had a wonderful view over the largest glacier in the eastern Alps – Pasterze. This view was certainly worth the effort.

View over the beautiful glacier Pasterze — *View over the glacier Pasterze*

Descending with recovered weather was much easier. We soon passed the cabin Erzhog Johann Hütte and had a celebration lunch under the glacier on Städlhütte. We made it. One of the toughest climbs managed despite bad weather!

Lastly, I would like to thank a lot my climbing partners Stefan and Martin for the best company and especially their climbing experience. Without you I would never get up to the peak!

View over Grossglockner - northern side — *View over Grossglockner – northern side*

View over Grossglockner - southern side — *View over Grossglockner – southern side*

My tips for the mountain Grossglockner:

Avoid climbing Grossglockner during weekends. The mountain is extremely busy. I suggest climbing it during autumn when the summer tourists disappear as well.
The climb is technically demanding. You need glacier experience as well as climbing experience. If you lack any of these two, don’t even try to climb the mountain on your own. Find an experienced climbing partner or a mountain guide.

July 29, 2019 • 0 Comment

PEAK 20: Great Britain – Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis, similarly to Carrauntoohil in Ireland, is a mountain with exceptionally bad weather. Ben Nevis is covered by clouds and fog for 70% of the year and even if you are lucky with clear sky the weather can change any minute. I was very lucky with the weather at the top but unfortunately I can’t share any picture from my summit day. After the successful summit I had a car accident during which I lost my camera, luckily only the camera…

Date of summit: 30th July 2018 21:15 
Traveling mode: Hiking
Height of the peak: 1345m 
Hiking distance: 7,77 km 
Time to ascend : 2h 25 min 
Map of my hiking journey to Ben Nevis: Movescount 
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Crabbies ***** (6 stars maximum)

DISCLAIMER: Due to the accident (described at the end of this article) I don’t have any up-to-date pictures from my climb to Ben Nevis. Most of the pictures used in this article were taken during my visit of Scotland in 2012.

Discovery of the beauty of the mountains

Scotland is simply a beautiful country which I always gladly visit again. It is actually the country where I found my passion for hiking 7 years ago. My friends and I climbed Ben Nevis that time and I realized that it is exactly what I want to do in the future – climbing mountains. I finally lost my fear for mountains there which I got when hiking with my parents in the Slovakian Tatras when I was a kid. That time, we did a demanding hike on an exposed mountain ridge called Tri Kopy – Baníkov and I got a panic attack due to fear of heights and storms there. That experience kept me away from mountains for over ten years. I am very glad I went to the mountains again in Scotland and I am thankful that Ben Nevis rekindled my love for the mountains!

Ben Nevis reached for the first time in 2012

Scotland has a lot to offer. Most people visit only the capital city Edinburgh which is a beautiful old city. However, I think the most exciting part of the country is further in the north where the mountains are getting higher. During my first visit, we made a long round trip across the north of Scotland and it was simply amazing. Unfortunately, it would take hours to describe everything you can see on your trip to Scotland, so I am picking one picture from our trip to best describe the Scottish atmosphere. Look at the Harry Potter train crossing the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct during the most typical Scottish weather. Isn’t it beautiful?

Glenfinnan Viaduct

I started my trip this time with four friends from my home country the Czech Republic and since we had a one week window for climbing Ben Nevis, we also visited one of the nicest islands I have ever been to – Isle of Skye. It is simply an amazing place where tough weather created a picturesque landscape with wild beaches, high mountains and sharp cliffs. In addition to the wonderful nature you can come across some charming villages and several whiskey distilleries. A perfect warm up before the climb to Ben Nevis.

One of the Scottish distilleries on our way

Driving left in UK can be confusing for visitors

After exploring the island, we headed straight to Fort William, a seaside village and especially the starting point for Ben Nevis. Along the way we encountered the major disadvantage of traveling in Scotland. At about 90km/h speed, a car with Asian tourists showed up in the opposite direction just in front of us. Fortunately, good visibility and good brakes prevented a disaster. You can see that one easily forgets that you are in the UK and that you drive on the left. We were lucky this time.

The beginning of the hike, just after leaving Glen Nevis

Surprisingly great views from Ben Nevis

The weather forecast, like in Ireland, looked positive for the evening, so we decided to go to the top for sunset. And we were lucky this time, unlike in Ireland. It was a pleasant 20 °C and especially, the peak was cloudless. The trail rises continuously from sea level to the top and the climb is never difficult. Along the way you will meet no obstacles, only a lot of curious sheep. Since the weather was great we could also enjoy the views over the bay of Loch Eil.

The bay of Loch Eil

Three Peaks Challenge

The motivation to reach the summit before the sunset was so strong that we managed to summit the peak just in 2 hours and 25 minutes. Indeed, the mountain remained free from the clouds so we enjoyed a beautiful sunset. We caught one of the lucky days when Ben Nevis offers good visibility! Such a pity I can’t share any picture from this wonderful evening.

This is a more likely visibility when you reach Ben Nevis

After enjoying the view over Scottish mountains for a while, it became cold so we headed back to our car. We had to get down as soon as possible, so we would not end up descending in darkness. Luckily, it went very quickly and smoothly so we were soon back at the parking lot.

We changed our sweaty clothes, took a quick dinner and started to drive towards Wales. Our goal was actually not to climb only the highest point of United Kingdom but also the highest point of England and Wales during one day. This Three peaks challenge is very popular in the UK and many people undertake it every year. We were tempted as well.

The worst experience of my life

Unfortunately, the car drive was not very long though. Everything happened very quickly. Our car suddenly went off the road and it hit a stone in the field. Luckily, nobody in the car was hurt but everyone was in shock. Our reaction was quick. We all jumped out of the car and ran away. When we all had left the car we spotted a starting fire. Being scared that the car could explode we ran even further. Then, we just stood a few hundred meters away, watching all our belongings disappear in fire and smoke.

It was cold and dark. We wore only a few pieces of clothes and most of us didn’t even have shoes. Everything was left in the car. Luckily, one friend found a phone in his pocket. That old Nokia with the famous game Snake we made fun of before. It saved us by calling help. Since we were in the middle of nowhere it took police over an hour to arrive. What a luck nobody was hurt. This long waiting time could be crucial.

Picture of our car after the accident. Terrible experience

Yes, it was terrible. It was the worst experience in my life. I still sometimes imagine someone of my friends getting hurt in the car accident. How thankful I am everybody survived the accident without any injury. I would not wish it on anyone to experience anything similar.

Driving is still very dangerous nowadays

The problem is that car accidents do happen every day. Over 25,000 people die on roads in the EU every year. Please, be careful when driving, especially at night on roads you don’t know. From my experience of my expedition in the mountains, I can assure you that driving is still much more dangerous than any mountain I climbed.

The expedition was for me finished at that point. My and my friends’ thoughts were just to get safely back home. We were cold, without clothes, without money, without passports, without phones. Only thanks to friends, family and modern technologies we managed to get home to the Czech Republic in just 48 hours. Everything is possible in today’s world when you have amazing people around.

Imagine losing everything in a minute. This is all we had before our flight back home

To end on a positive note, I would like to point out that Ben Nevis is an exceptional mountain really worth visiting. Accidents can happen every time and anywhere and they should not put you off from our passion. We should just always do our best to avoid them. This was the biggest lesson in my life and I can assure you that I will always do my best not to put my life in danger again.

My tips for the mountain Ben Nevis:

Be careful when driving in Scotland. Keep left.
If you plan to climb Ben Nevis, try to plan a longer visit of Scotland so there is a bigger chance to summit the mountain during good weather.
If you have extra time, don’t hesitate to visit the Isle of Skye, one of the most beautiful islands in Europe.
In case of bad weather, remember: it doesn’t rain in bars and distilleries in Scotland.
Consider doing the famous Three Peaks Challenge. However, I recommend to do it with a company or take the train instead of a car.

July 24, 2019 • 0 Comment

PEAK 19: Ireland – Carrauntoohil

Carrauntoohil is a beautiful mountain in Ireland from which you can watch the waves of the Atlantic ocean. If there is good weather… Unfortunately, I was unlucky during my four days long stay in Ireland. It was raining all the time. I couldn’t see anything on my way to the highest peak but I still had a great time in the mountains. At least I can say that I had a typical Irish experience.

Date of summit: 25th July 2018 21:10 
Traveling mode: Hiking
Height of the peak: 1039m 
Hiking distance: 7,11 km 
Time to ascend : 2h 58 min 
Map of my hiking journey to Carrauntoohil: Movescount 
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Killarnex Blond **** (6 stars maximum)

I was really looking forward to Ireland. It was such dry weather in Spain where I was before that I even wished for rain. My wishes were fulfilled more than enough. In Ireland during the first 24 hours it rained continuously and it was as cold as around 15 degrees.

Cloudy and cold in Ireland

I stayed at a modest but beautiful guesthouse near the town of Killarney where I could enjoy two nights with exceptionally tasty typical Irish breakfast. Breakfasts on British Isles are just unbeatable.

After checking the weather forecast, I finally decided to go to the highest mountain in Ireland during sunset. The weather was supposed to be best during that time and the sky should have even been clear.

Reaching Carrauntoohil via Devil’s Ladder

It was just a short car drive to the start of the hike so I could start my hike at 6 pm. The Irish mountains were beautiful. I had a wonderful view, only the top of Carrauntoohil was hidden in the clouds. I enjoyed the hike a lot but unfortunately the clouds were getting lower and lower. When I reached the foot of the mountains, the clouds fell so low that there was very bad visibility. I went up the path called the Devil’s Ladder . It looked quite exposed from below, but the actual hike up was very nice. There were no demanding parts there, just curious sheep looking for fresh grass.

Carrauntoohil getting eaten by clouds; iPhone picture

Unfortunately, when I got to the ridge, the clouds were still low so I couldn’t see anything at all. It was very windy and it even started to rain. At that moment I looked at my watch and it was 9 pm. Exactly that time the sky was supposed to be clear. I just learned a new lesson. Don’t trust weather forecasts in Ireland and get ready for everything.

Weather is getting worse and clouds are getting lower; GoPro picture

Be ready for Irish weather

When I got to the top the wind was even stronger. I was sometimes glad to have a 15 kg backpack with me. It worked well as a burden so I couldn’t take off. It was tough to hike up in the wind but luckily it was not long. When I reached the peak I was very grateful there was a small shelter on the top of the mountain so I could enjoy my peak beer in relative warmth.

On the top of the Devil’s ladder, it will soon rain like hell; iPhone picture

On the way down I decided for tactics – the sooner I will be down, the less dark it will be. I managed to run the first part of the hill to the beginning of Devil’s ladder in 15 minutes. A full moon peeked out from behind the clouds, shining so pleasantly that I didn’t need a headlamp. It was a nice decent until I got a shock. Suddenly, two scary bright eyes popped up. I quickly cleaned my glasses from the rain drops to see more, waiting for the worst. Which animal is going to eat me? After looking thoroughly, I just realized it was nothing else than the eyes of a curious sheep. After this horrifying experience I took more attention and checked every step on the way down. Soon I was back at my car.

Carrauntoohil conquered; iPhone selfie

It doesn’t rain in bars

The next morning, after enjoying another delicious breakfast, I wanted to explore the western part of Ireland. I was particularly tempted by the rugged and wild coast. However, the weather was not good at all again so I followed the Irish saying: “It’s not raining in the pub.”

When I visited Ireland last time I went to the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin so I chose another typical tourist attraction this time – the Jameson Distillery. After my visit I have to say: I’m not a museum person, but I really liked it. The tour was very interactive and we also had the opportunity to test the difference between American, Scottish and Irish whiskey. I would summarize the tasting as: I will never again buy the American one.

It doesn’t rain in bars!

All in all I liked my Irish visit. The weather was simply terrible but the country has its spirit even during bad weather times. Unfortunately, Carrauntoohil became the first mountain where I really couldn’t see anything but that’s life. I have a reason to come back.

Amazing Cliffs of Moher

DISCLAIMER: Unfortunately, Carrauntoohil and Ben Nevis are the only mountains where I don’t have pictures from my camera. The explanation will come in the Ben Nevis chapter.

My tips for the mountain Carrauntoohil:

As always, I recommend to have some extra days for the summit day. In Ireland especially it is difficult to find a day with sunny weather. My four days in Ireland were not enough to have a nice weather.
If you are lucky with the weather on the other hand, visit also the west coast of Ireland which is very beautiful – Dingle, Skellig Michael or Cliffs of Moher.
In case of bad weather remember: It doesn’t rain in bars.

June 28, 2019 • 0 Comment

Expedition completed! All highest points of European countries climbed!

After almost a year of frequent travelling, hiking and climbing I am lying on my bed without any specific further traveling plans. Now, I finally have time to go through the thousands of pictures and videos which I captured during my mountain expedition European Peaks. I still can hardly believe it but my pictures confirm that I made it! Despite all the obstacles I managed to climb the highest mountain of each European country and even during the shortest time ever. Liechtenstein and its surprisingly sharp mountain Vorder Grauspitz was the last mountain on my list. Here are my first reflections.

The largest obstacles brought most interesting stories

Vorder Grauspitz, the mountain which showed up several times in my nightmares, was conquered on 13th June, 2019, exactly 361 days after the first summit of a European mountain of my expedition which was a small but beautiful hill in Estonia. I expected to have difficulties with other giants such as Elbrus in Russia, Dufourspitze in Switzerland or Mont Blanc in Italy/France but it was this only 2599m high mountain in Liechtenstein which caused me the biggest troubles. I had to give up during the first summit attempt in the beginning of June due to high avalanche risk and this potential avalanche woke me up in the middle of several nights after our unsuccessful attempt.

Crazy a lot of snow at the beginning of June in Liechtenstein caused high avalanche danger. This is a wayout of a tunnel

Surprisingly tough mountain in Liechtenstein

Who would expect such climbing difficulty from the fourth smallest country in Europe? I was so scared of an accident on this mountain but also so close to the end of my expedition that I decided to climb it for the second time with an experienced mountain guide. I just couldn’t leave the expedition unfinished. And it worked!

We waited for a perfect weather window and our summit day was just perfect. The freezing night made the snow stable for our summit and the weather even prepared impressive views for us. Can you imagine a better climbing day than above an ocean of clouds? The climb was actually not as difficult as my nightmares suggested. After a few hours I was already standing on Vorder Grauspitz and enjoying the last peak beer. That feeling of victory on the top of the mountain which scared me over two weeks was undescribable.

Second attempt to climb Grauspitz during much better weather than for the first time

Global warming took a short break

During the first part of my expedition (check the summary here) I climbed the highest mountains of all EU countries and I was pretty lucky with the weather. I had troubles with weather only once in the High Tatras when I was attempting to climb the highest mountain in Slovakia. However, the second part of the expedition prepared for me completely opposite conditions. I had difficulties with weather at almost each mountain due to never ending winter and lots of snow. The most crazy conditions waited for me besides the above mentioned Liechtenstein also in Russia where I had to wait 5 days for good weather. When it finally looked like the forecasts will recover my partners and I ended up in the biggest snowstorm I have ever seen.

Snowstorm in the base camp of Elbrus at 4100m. We had to return.

However, we all know well that it was only a short global warming break. I have seen many glaciers melting during my expedition. The most significant change I experienced in Sweden when climbing Kebnekaise. The southern peak of the mountain got several meters lower in comparison to my first visit in 2014. Unfortunately, it will be soon glacier free completely.

Bear is not as fun to find as a beer.

Similarly, I faced complete winter conditions in all the Balkan countries where the summits would never be possible without crampons and an ice axe. Why do all articles I found online say that hiking in the Balkans in the end of May should be snowless? Besides snow difficulties, Bosnia and Herzegovina prepared for me another wildlife survival test – how to survive a meeting with a bear. I was very glad at that moment that I visited the Libearty Bear Sanctuary in Romania where I was explained what to do not to be eaten as a desert (see the picture below). Despite almost getting my pants full I found out that it actually works to pretend you are big and to start a karaoke.

I started to use a lot Instastories during my expedition. Very easy and quick way to share instant experiences. Check my Instagram account if you don’t follow me there yet.

In Iceland, I faced another challenge. Since none of the mountain guiding operators to the highest peak Hvannadalshnjúkur offered a tour on the date we needed, my friend and I decided to reach the peak on our own. Since my friend was on a glacier for the first time, I didn’t have any other option than leading the climb over a glacier for the first time in my life. It was a very challenging experience. It was not only an extremely long climb but taking the responsibility is a much harder burden. Any mistake could result in an accident. I am very happy we had probably the best weather in Iceland’s history so we made it to the peak safely. At the end, we were even awarded by an amazing sunset on the peak and the shining northern lights on the way back.

The highest point of Iceland climbed!

Waiting is worse than the toughest climbs

Climbing Elbrus is nothing technically difficult. But if weather goes bananas your butt will shake off as I could experience. I had to wait for good weather for five days in an improvised simple accommodation, lack of oxygen, eating freeze dried food and hearing mice running above my head. The biggest problem was though that the toilet outside and 100m far from our cottage. I knew that you must drink a lot when staying in high altitudes but I didn’t know that the bladder has much more difficulties to work. Running 5 times a night to the toilet in freezing temperatures is not an experience which I will miss after this expedition.

I found out that having “skiing instructor certificate” doesn’t mean anything if you go ski touring. Reaching peaks in in Liechtenstein, Switzerland, Norway and Andorra was an amazing experience but followed with a number of non expected falls. The most crucial fall happened in Switzerland when I lost a pole. It taught me though that a broom can be an amazing pole too. Why spending so much money for new skiing poles when you can create your own?

Small mountains can surprise

I am glad that European highest points didn’t only bring me to high mountain ranges but also to countries which I would probably never visit without this challenge. The best example is Moldova, the poorest country in Europe and the least visited country of the European continent. I discovered completely untouched places there, met interesting people in tiny villages, celebrated orthodox Easter and visited the largest winery in the world. Yes, you read correctly. There is the largest winery in the world – Cricova with a huge underground city full of cellars and 100km of corridors. Even though the highest point itself of Moldova is very easy to climb, I had difficulties reaching it because before my summit day I spent in Moldova an intense prolonged weekend with surprisingly tasty wine, great people and one of the biggest parties in my life.

Babushka selling Easter cakes in Moldova

Climbing with the nearest

Since most of the climbs in the non EU countries were very demanding I never wanted to manage them on my own. Luckily, I have amazing people around me and I managed to find a climbing partner for every peak during the second part of my expedition. On the other hand, I learned that being scared for others can be much stronger feeling than being scared for myself. When my mum, my girlfriend and I walked off a snow covered walking path in the Balkans and we showed up in a very steep and insecure snow terrain, I was very worried something would happen to them. I was ready to cancel our summit attempts and return back down. Luckily, the women around me are so brave that they managed to pass these tough parts and we successfully made it to these amazing peaks.

Joanne’s face explains exactly what she thinks about this steep part on the way to Maglič, the highest point of Bosnia and Herzegovina

Overcoming prejudice and enjoying the simplicity of every day life

These were some of the strongest experiences I had during the second part of my expedition. As I said it was a very tough year with a lot of challenges but it was worth the pain and stress. The feeling when you successfully finish the whole expedition is simply amazing. I hope my story has motivated at least some of you reading this article. I wish everyone who has a dream expedition in mind to start. That’s the most difficult moment. Once you begin your adventure, the goal will be close.

If you don’t think of any dream adventure, consider climbing at least one highest point of a European country this summer. Europe is so beautiful and various that everyone is able to choose. The best thing is that if you decide to climb a mountain you don’t only make your body healthier by moving in the nature but you also meet interesting people and learn about different cultures. For me climbing the mountains was never only about the peaks. I always tried to find out as much as I could about the country and the region I visited. I liked especially participating in free guided tours in the cities on the way and of course talking with locals. I learned a lot of new interesting things about our continent and overcame lots of prejudice (you’ll see examples in my future blog posts).

Time to rest

Before my adventure I was very restless. I traveled to a new place and especially mountains every free moment I could. However, after this expedition, I never thought I would say this but I am happy that I have no travel plans at the moment. I am happy with my plan to stay in the lowland around Stockholm and Prague over the whole summer, just work with photography and go through all my pictures, videos and notes from my expedition. I am looking forward to complete my blog so you have tips for the highest mountain of each European country in one place. If you like reading my experiences and looking at mountain pictures, you have something to look forward to during this summer.

Time to enjoy Swedish summer and endless sunsets

What will be the next expedition?

This is probably the most common question I am getting these days. My big challenge is to stay calm and not to travel much this summer. Haha. My current expedition will be to start writing a book which was always my dream. But for those who know me I will not be able to stay a long time without adrenaline. I have one big mountain dream in mind but I will keep it for myself at the moment. Stay tuned.

Lastly, I would like to thank all the people who helped me to make my dream come true. Especially, I am thankful for support and patience of my family and my girlfriend. Thanks also to all who decided to join me for a part of my expedition and to those who helped me in any other way.

The best people who joined me on my adventure this year

PS: Thanks also the EU for its existence. I realized how easy it is to travel in the Shengen area during the second part of the expedition. I almost forgot how much pain in the ass it is to travel through borders with the security controls and bureaucracy. Similarly, I am happy to be back in the EU now where I can access internet on my phone anywhere without a problem. I spent hundreds of EUR only because I just needed to let my family know that I am alive.

Here is the list of mountains which I managed the climb

Country	Mountain	Elevation
Estonia	Suur Munamägi	318
Latvia	Gaiziņkalns	311
Lithuania	Aukštojas Hill	294
Denmark	Møllehøj	171
Netherlands	Vaalserberg	321
Belgium	Signal de Botrange	694
Luxembourg	Kneiff	560
Czech Republic	Sněžka	1,603
Slovakia	Gerlachovský štít	2,655
Poland	Rysy	2,499
Hungary	Kékes	1,014
Romania	Moldoveanu Peak	2,544
Bulgaria	Musala	2,925
Greece	Mount Olympus	2,917
Cyprus	Mount Olympus	1,952
Malta	Ta’ Dmejrek	253
Portugal	Torre	1,993
Spain	Mulhacén	3,479
Ireland	Carrauntoohil	1,041
United Kingdom	Ben Nevis	1,345
Austria	Grossglockner	3,798
Germany	Zugspitze	2,962
Slovenia	Triglav	2,864
Italy/France	Mont Blanc	4,809
Finland	Halti	1,324
Sweden	Kebnekaise	2,104
Croatia	Dinara	1,831
Vatican	Vatican Hill	75
San Marino	Monte Titano	749
Monaco	Chemin des Révoires	163
Norway	Galdhøpiggen	2,469
Andorra	Coma Pedrosa	2,942
Iceland	Hvannadalshnúkur	2,11
Belarus	Dzyarzhynskaya Hara	345
Ukraine	Hoverla	2,061
Moldova	Bălănești	430
Serbia	Midžor	2,169
Macedonia/Albania	Mount Korab	2,764
Kosovo	Rudoka e Madhe	2,658
Montenegro	Zla Kolata	2,534
Bosnia + Herzegovina	Maglić	2,386
Switzerland	Monte Rosa	4,634
Turkey	Mahya Dağı	1,031
Russia	Mount Elbrus	5,642
Liechtenstein	Vorder Grauspitz	2,599

March 19, 2019 • 0 Comment

PEAK 16: Malta – Ta’ Dmejrek

I regarded Malta as the most unnecessary country of my expedition. The island and its Ta’ Dmejrek is very remote from the other peaks. The flight tickets were insanely expensive and there is actually no mountain on the island. After coming to Malta my mindset turned completely around though. Malta was an amazing stop on my trip. I experienced there the most beautiful city of my expedition Valletta and even the highest point Ta’ Dmejrek of the island at Dingli Cliffs prepared for me beautiful views.

Date of summit: 18th July 2018 14:35 
Traveling mode: Scooter
Height of the peak: 253m 
Hiking distance: 0,33 km 
Time to ascend : 2 min  
Map of my hiking journey to Ta’ Dmejrek: Movescount 
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Cisk Lager  ** (6 stars maximum)

After sleeping on the highest mountain in Cyprus in a car I wanted to find some more comfortable accommodation and I got lucky. I managed to book amazing accommodation at Lucente Guest House which I got for free in return for drone pictures and videos. The barter trade still works these days.

Like a king in Valletta

Valletta surprised by its amazing architecture and history

The host Charlie was probably the most funny and friendly guy I met on my trip. We had a lot of fun. In addition he showed me the nicest spots around Valletta so I could take some amazing pictures. It was also the nicest accommodation I stayed at. Charlie showed that he is passionate about his business. Every room of his Guest House was devoted to one part of the Malta history. I got a room which was associated to the knight time. Really cool decoration.

Valletta at night

I spent the first day flying my drone around Valletta and it was great! I didn’t have to care much about rules because Malta is the most drone friendly country with only a few restrictions.

Valletta from bird perspective

Reaching Ta’ Dmejrek by scooter

The next day I woke up pretty early so I would have enough time to conquer the highest point of Malta. Since the highest point of Malta is closest to the sea from all European highest points, I decided to visit it by scooter. It was not easy to find a scooter rental, but I found one shop online and I got the scooter delivered to my Guest House.

Time to reach the highest point of Malta

Malta is not a large island. Despite the mountain’s position on the other side of the island, Google Maps said I would reach it on my scooter in 30 minutes. The highest point of Malta Ta’ Dmejrek is situated at Dingli Cliffs which has one certain advantage. You have a beautiful view over the Mediterranean Sea. The trip seemed to be pretty straightforward but I encountered an unexpected problem. It was very windy so I drove my scooter slowly not to end up below the cliffs.

Travelling in Malta during midday is stupid

View over Dingli cliffs hiding the highest point of Malta Ta’ Dmejrek

Another problem showed up when I reached Ta’ Dmejrek. Since it was very hot I drove only in a T-Shirt and since it was windy I didn’t feel anything wrong. However, after stopping my scooter I realized: I am completely sunburnt. Again? I am curious when my plan not to get sunburnt over the following summer will work. Since it was 12 o’clock there was no natural shadow spot at all in 10km radius, so I found a shelter under the only umbrella in a local fast food shop close to the highest point.

I drank 1,5 liter of water in a while and I felt much better. Then I visited the local chapel and took the 200m walk to the highest point. Yeah, I made it!

Time to chill on a beach

After this dramatic summit I felt like celebrating my victory on a beach so I googled and I found the nicest beach nearby. Not surprisingly. Malta is really a small island.

After the swim I visited one more city called Mdina with a great fortress recommended by Charlie and I saw basically the whole island.

Maltese style rabbit

I left the scooter and was ready to leave to the airport but when saying bye to Charlie he told me: “Did you taste the Maltese style rabbit? If you didn’t, it is like you haven’t been to Malta!” I didn’t have time to taste the rabbit but Charlie insisted and promised me to take me to the airport, so I ordered one rabbit at a local restaurant. It took them so much time to prepare and I got really nervous. When the rabbit got served, I ate it so quickly that I didn’t even have time to taste it and I still don’t know if I liked it or not. However, Charlie dropped me at the bag drop at the airport 3 minutes before closing time so I caught my flight. At least after eating the famous rabbit I can say I have been to Malta.

Back in Valletta

My tips for the mountain Ta’ Dmejrek:

Take a scooter and visit the highest point of Malta at Dingli Cliffs by scooter but be careful in case of strong winds.
The scooter will enable you to visit the whole island within a day.
Don’t forget sun cream like I did.
If you have time visit also the island of Malta called Gozo known for its amazing nature. I didn’t have time to visit it but it is a definitely good reason to come back.

March 6, 2019 • 0 Comment

PEAK 15 – Cyprus – Mount Olympus

Did you know that there are two Mount Olympuses? Not only the famous Greek mountain can boast of this name. You can find Mount Olympus also in Cyprus. I was surprised how high the mountain actually is and I found out that you can even ski in Cyprus in winter. Unfortunately, this mountain had one major disadvantage and it became the most tourist unfriendly mountain of my expedition. Follow my steps on this popular summer destination.

Date of summit: 16th July 2018 6:50 
Traveling mode: Car
Height of the peak: 1952m
Hiking distance: 0,48 km 
Time to ascend : 14 min 
Map of my hiking journey to Mount Olympus: Movescount 
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Kea Beer ** (6 stars maximum)

I was very curious about Cyprus and since I didn’t make much research in advance I was looking forward to what I’ll see. The first surprise happened already at the airport. When picking up a rental car in Paphos I found out that I will be driving on the left. It makes sense. It used to be a British colony.

Fortress in Paphos

Romantic evening at Mount Olympus by myself

I had a romantic plan to spend the night at the famous beach Petra tou Romiou where the goddess Afrodité was born according to the legend. Once I reached it though I found out how hot and wet it was outside. I realized I would never be able to fall asleep there so I changed my plan and headed directly to Cyprus mountains. Since it was late there was no traffic and I was soon close to the highest point of the whole Cyprus.

At the height of 1900m there was a different extreme. It was very cold there but I preferred that and I also had a view to the beautiful Milky Way. I think I selected the best place to spend the night at.

My sleeping spot under Milky Way at Mount Olympus

Zeus skiing slope

The other advantage of this sleepover place was that I woke up very close to Mount Olympus. I just had to climb the skiing slope called Zeus and I was on the top. Unfortunately it is impossible to reach the real highest point of Cyprus because there is a military zone with a large radar. It was even forbidden to take pictures there. Since there were no guards unlike the place where the main road leads to the top I took some pictures. Happy I didn’t end up in prison.

The Zeus slope

Illegal summit picture

Short holiday at Cyprus

Since this mountain was very tourist unfriendly I didn’t stay long and headed back to Petra tou Romiou to get 10 years younger. According to the legend everyone gets 10 years younger after a swim in the waters where Afrodité was born. Since I didn’t become a teenager again though I doubt this legend.

View over the Afrodité beach

Then, I headed to the beach city Larnaca to spend some time on the beach before I moved to the next mountain. To be honest I didn’t really become a fan of Cyprus. In my opinion other countries in the Mediterranean have more to offer.

Larnaca

My tips for the mountain Mount Olympus:

Don’t come to the peak on the main road. There are guards and you will not be able to make a summit picture. Instead find the start of the skiing slope Zeus and climb the few hundreds meters up. You will have a better view without guards.
Spend the night in Cyprus mountains and watch the amazing Milky Way (avoid full moon period)
If you have time, hire a bike in one of the rental shops below the mountain.

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