EU Peaks

July 9, 2023 • 0 Comment
How to climb the highest point of Denmark – Møllehøj?

Denmark is proud of having the lowest highest mountain of the whole European Union. Despite that, it’s very difficult to reach the peak. Why? Even Danish people are confused about their highest point and most of them don’t know which one it is. In fact, there are four mountains in Denmark where a sign claims it’s the highest one. In this article, I will explain everything you need to know before you “climb” the real highest point of the country – Møllehøj.

What is the highest point of Denmark?

Let’s start with the most important and actually a pretty complicated question. It’s funny because many Danes regard Himmelbjerget as the highest point of Denmark these days. The mountain’s name in English means “the heaven mountain” and it actually really looks like a mountain which is very unique for Danish landscape. It also offers a surprisingly beautiful view (from Denmark’s perspective). All Danes regarded this place as the highest point until the end of 19th century and many still do these days.

It is though 30m lower than Møllehøj, situated 30 km away. You might think now that here the complicated story of the highest Danish point finishes but it actually just starts. Møllehøj is not easy to reach either. The problem is that there is another hill called Ejer Bavnehøj only 300m away with a majestic observation tower. It was built in 1924 to celebrate the new discovery of the new highest point of the country. Unfortunately, it was the highest only until until 2005 when a thorough research and measurements were made. The research was found out that the highest peak is Møllehøj with 170.86m compared to only 170.35m at Ejer Bavnehoj.

To make it even more complicated, there is one more mountain called Yding Skovhøj which is 172,54m high. You might think: “Omg. So they changed the highest point for the third time!” Here, the story goes another way though. It is the highest but it was manmade. There is a Bronze Age burial mound on the top without which Yding Skovhøj is a little lower than Møllehøj and therefore isn’t accepted as the highest point of the country.

Important information for reaching Møllehøj

Short description of the ascent : Short walk 
Essential equipment: No special equipment needed
Best time to visit: All year
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Height of the peak: 171m
Distance to the top: 291 m (one way)
Time to ascend from Ejer Bavnehøj to Møllehøj: 5 min
Elevation climbed: 5m 
Water availability on the mountain: A shop or a toilet at Ejer Bavnehøj
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: * (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Klosterbryg (fusion of an English Strong Ale and a Danish Strong Lager) **** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the walk to Møllehøj

My story of reaching the highest point of Denmark including personal tips

I visited the highest point of Denmark as a part of the European Peaks project during which I climbed the highest point of every European country. My arrival from Lithuania to Denmark was a bit sad. My plane landed in Billund, just next to the famous Legoland and that’s a dream of every boy. Unfortunately, little Jarda had another mission – to climb the highest point of Denmark.

View from the mountain Himmelbjerget; Nikon 20mm f/1.8; single exposure

We are at a wrong mountain

I didn’t plan to visit the highest point of Denmark on my own. I met my friend Alča and my girlfriend Joanne in Aarhus and together with Alča’s Danish boss we set out for our journey towards the Danish highest peak. The only Dane of our group took the lead and drove us to the highest peak. The problem occurred when I checked the map. We ended up on a wrong highest peak. My friend Alča and her boss thought the highest mountain of Denmark is Himmelbjerget. It makes sense. It actually really looks like a mountain and you have a nice view from there. All Danes regarded this place as the highest point until the end of 19th century.

They wanted to start a picnic there to celebrate reaching the highest point but I had to be against. I explained them the whole problematic of the highest point of Denmark (see above) and we continued towards Møllehøj.

Tower at Ejer Bavnehoj; DJI Phantom 4 Pro; Panorama consisting of 6 pictures in two rows + 3times bracketing

Smelly Møllehøj

We parked the car at the second highest point of the country Ejer Bavnehøj which boasts of a huge observation tower and headed towards Møllehøj. There we found out that there is only a small stone on the highest peak and next to it you can find a large cow farm. You can choose then. Either take a view from the second highest point and its tower or listen to loud cow’s moo and enjoy a great rural atmosphere on the highest peak.

Cow farm next to Møllehøj. I am the tiny blue dot; DJI Phantom 4 Pro; Single Exposure

A pity that we witnessed there the typical Danish weather with strong wind, clouds and occasional rains. We planned a picnic on the peak but instead we decided to have it at Alča’s place. Anyway, it was fun to hunt the highest peak of Denmark and I am glad we made it.

On top of the highest point of Denmark; Nikon 20mm f/1.8; single exposure

My tips for Møllehøj

  • Read beforehand which mountain is the highest. On each peak they will claim that their mountain is the highest.
  • Be careful about the Danish weather.
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July 2, 2023 • 0 Comment
All you need to know about climbing Mont Blanc

The highest mountain of the European Union, Mont Blanc, was to be the hardest test of my expedition. I had already climbed the mountain three years ago, but it was with an experienced guide that time. This time I had to rely just on my and my friends’ skills. For the first time I took the so-called Three Monts route from Aiguille du Midi to the top, which was until then the most demanding climb of my life. This time we chose the simplest option, namely via the Gouter Hut. Which route is better?

Two most popular routes to Mont Blanc

There are several routes to the highest mountain of the Alps Mont Blanc. Choose wisely according to your fitness level and climbing experience. For visitors without climbing and glacier experience, a guide is a must.

  • Gouter route: The so called normal route is the easiest way to Mont Blanc. I will describe this route thoroughly in this article.
  • The 3 Mont Blanc Traverse: This is a more demanding route leading from Aiguille du Midi. On this route you will pass two more mountains Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit. This route is more technical and also longer than Gouter route but there are less climbers so this route is recommended to more experienced visitors.

Important information for climb of Mont Blanc via Gouter route

Short description of the ascent from Nid'Aigle: Demanding multiday climb on via ferrata and on glacier
Essential equipment: Full climbing and glacier gear
Best time to visit: June - Septmeber (June and September best)
Fees or restrictions: It isn't allowed to enter Gouter route without proper climbing equipment
Camping allowed: Only nearby Tête Rousse Hut
Height of the peak: 4807m
Distance to the top: 9 km (one way without acclimatization climbs)
Time to ascend from Nid'Aigle to Mont Blanc and back: 4 days are recommended (see recommended itinerary below)
Elevation climbed (one way without acclimatization climb): 2465m 
Water availability on the mountain: At all the huts on the way.
Difficulty level: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Mont Blanc La Rousse ***** (6 stars maximum)

Recommended itinerary to climb Mont Blanc via Gouter route

Since Mont Blanc is the highest mountain of the Alps, a proper acclimatization is a must. If you haven’t been this high before in your life, it’s highly recommended not to underestimate the acclimatiztaion process. Below you can find my recommendation:

  • Day 0: Acclimatization in the Chamonix area – for example by a lift to Aiguille du Midi
  • Day 1: Train to Nid’Aigle and hike to Tête Rousse Hut with subsequent acclimatization to Gouter Hut
  • Day 2: Climb from Tête Rousse Hut to Gouter Hut with acclimatization to the mountain Dome du Gouter
  • Day 3: Climb from Gouter Hut to Mont Blanc to Gouter Hut and back
  • Day 4: Descend back to Nid’Aigle

Map of the climb via Gouter route to Mont Blanc

My story of climbing the deadliest mountain in the world

After the accident in Scotland, I thought it was the complete end of my expedition. When I later decided to continue, I promised at least at home that I would omit the dangerous Mont Blanc. After the car accident not only those at home were worried about me, but even I was afraid myself, especially when it came to “The deadliest mountain in the World”, where over 6000 people have already died. Therefore, the plan was to conquer all remaining mountains except Mount Blanc itself. I cancelled my plans and told my friends who planned to climb Mont Blanc with me about it. Instead I planned the ascent of Dinara, the highest mountain in Croatia.

Aiguille du Midi viewed from the Gouter Hut during sunset
Aiguille du Midi viewed from the Gouter Hut during sunset

However, as it sometimes happens, the circumstances changed. While hiking on the Alpine peaks I got enthusiastic for traveling again and I was looking forward to going to Croatia. My friend Mara, however, was so tired after climbing Triglav that he refused to go to Croatia with me. So, I was thinking what to do next. I didn’t want to go to Croatia on my own and I had six days left before my flight to the highest mountain in Finland. My flight was scheduled from Geneva and my friends Alča and Hozna were trying to persuade me to join them for the climb to Mont Blanc. Since I had successfully climbed all the Alpine highest mountains so far, I gained enough confidence back. It was a perfect weather forecast, too. Great opportunity. Those circumstances finally convinced me. I decided to climb Mont Blanc.

Gouter Route to Mont Blanc

Our trip started in a nice accommodation in the village of Saint Gervais-Les Bains right next to the train heading towards Mont Blanc. We slept well and we departed by this train at 8:30 towards the starting point of our expedition Le Nid d’aigle.

Mont Blanc Tramway taking us to Le Nid d'aigle
Mont Blanc Tramway taking us to Le Nid d’aigle

Since camping on the trail via Gouter Hut was forbidden at the moment and still is, we had a plan to hike to the Tête Rousse Hut, sleep there, the next day climb to Gouter Hut, acclimatize for a day around, sleep over at the Gouter Hut and we planned to summit Mont Blanc during the third day. We got very lucky that there were some vacant beds on both huts, despite booking them very last minute. In fact, the huts had been sold out for a half a year but we were saved by some last minute cancellations.

View from the the Tête Rousse Hut
View from the Tête Rousse Hut

Dangerous Grand Couloir

During the first day we reached the Tête Rousse Hut. We had lunch – local cheese, which smelled like sore feet, but it was probably the best I had ever eaten. During the lunch we were looking at a scary Grand Couloir, which would wait for us on the way up to the Gouter Hut. Rocks kept falling down roughly every minute. We didn’t like that at all. The danger was obvious. Therefore, we decided to get up early in the morning before the sun started shining on the slope and while it was frozen. This should eliminate the risk of accidents.

In the end, we decided to wake up as early as at 1:30am to have a safe walk through this probably most dangerous part of the expedition and even more time for more acclimatization the following day. That’s why I also went to sleep right after lunch. It still seemed that I had been a lot exhausted and I had lacked sleep since the whole previous trip.

Grand Couloir (Mont Blanc) on the way to Gouter Hut
Grand Couloir (Mont Blanc) on the way to Gouter Hut

My friends hiked up the slope to see where we should pass the couloir at night. I thank them very much for this check. It saved us a lot of time in the middle of the night. Two hours later they were in the hut and fell asleep too. Four hours of quality sleep were handy for us. We woke up refreshed. We didn’t have much work left that day, just to pack up, eat a kilo of pasta and go back to sleep.

Tough Alpine start

Apart from us, our neighbors went to sleep, too. Unfortunately. This time, the risk of dormitories proved its strength. One of our neighbors sounded like a carefully sharpened chainsaw. We did not understand that he didn’t wake himself up with his snoring. Unfortunately, he was the only one in the dorm who managed to sleep. At that moment I was really grateful for our afternoon nap. I didn’t close my eyes till the alarm rang.

Climbing from Tete Rousse Hut to Gouter Hut
Climbing from Tete Rousse Hut to Gouter Hut (picture taken on the way back)

We woke up at 1am at night, had a quick breakfast and we started to climb up during the starlight. It was surprisingly warm outside. All we needed was a long sleeve t-shirt. Soon we got to the couloir, where, fortunately, no stones were falling at night, and we overcame it without any trouble. The introductory part of the journey reminded me of the ascent of Triglav. It was similarly steep, similarly carefully protected by steel ropes and under us there was a similarly steep slope. There was no need for belaying and tying up, so we didn’t waste time. Only a fool would take this path without a helmet, though. Rocks could still fall at any time. Unfortunately, we met many of these fools along the way.

The climb went really well for my friends. Unfortunately, I felt a little worse. That delicious cheese apparently did not settle well in my stomach. I did not feel good and was looking forward to reaching Gouter Hut to have some rest. I secretly hoped that my friends felt alike, so we could shorten the planned acclimatization and go to sleep early.

Putting crampons on next to the Gouter Hut and time to acclimatize for Mont Blanc
Putting crampons on next to the Gouter Hut and time to acclimatize

Midnight snack saved me

We stopped at the Gouter Hut. We were hungry and we had a smaller snack. But I saw in my friends’ faces that there was no chance to talk about quitting climbing. We got rid of a part of the load, which we would not be needed for the acclimatization, we put on the crampons, harnesses, we tied up the rope, picked up the ice axes and we started to go upwards. We would see how far we would climb.

On the way to Dome du Gouter
On the way to Dome du Gouter

Sunrise over Mont Blanc

Suddenly, as if by magic, all of us were doing perfectly. After the climb to the Dome du Gouter we were in perfect time, so we decided: We would try to climb to the Mont Blanc itself. It started to get brighter and we finally glimpsed the top of Mont Blanc. This majestic mountain rises at least five hundred metres higher than the surrounding peaks. Really beautiful. After a few minutes the sun began to rise. It was a spectacle. The first rays reached the top of Mont Blanc, and in a few minutes, they fell on us. At that moment it would have been worth stopping the time. These are the moments that made me undertake the expedition. This spectacle gave us so much energy that we would surely jump to the top as alpine chamois.

View over Mont Blanc from Dome du Gouter
View over Mont Blanc from Dome du Gouter

And indeed, we did. The sun was supplying us with energy, and we were progressing great. We just had respect from the final ridge but without a reason. The wind was not blowing and the path was great, so everything went without a problem. We were not in a hurry. To rush would not even be possible, because the air was sparse. After about every twenty steps we took a half-minute break to replenish the oxygen, and in the meantime, we enjoyed the views of the surroundings.

On top of the Alps

After another hour we were already standing on the top. It was warm up there. It was blowing only a faint breeze and we enjoyed the sunshine. Surprisingly, the view from the top is not as beautiful as on the way up. At the very top there is a small plateau, and thus the horizon obscures the views. But when a person steps a little down aside, there is a beautiful view of both the Italian and French Alps. I saw even the path I took last time. But I was glad I hadn’t taken it this time. The path via Gouter Hut is much easier, and I think that anyone who is trained, acclimatised, properly equipped and who would not underestimate the weather could make it.

On top of Mont Blanc
We made it! Mont Blanc reached!

Unfortunately, a large percentage of tourists on the Mont Blanc doesn’t have proper equipment and enough experience or disregards the dangers of the weather. They do not only risk their health, but also others’. We could have convinced ourselves of this during our descent. After another hour, when we arrived back to Dome du Gouter, black clouds started to approach. It was clear that a thunderstorm would soon come, exactly as the weather forecast had said the day before. Despite this change of weather, however, we met several other groups heading upwards. We were worried especially about the last group of five Japanese tourists who didn’t really look like they knew what they were doing. They didn’t even have a rope. Our warning, however, did not interest them. Stubbornly, they continued.

The deadliest mountain in the world

Similarly, we couldn’t believe our eyes when, just before the Tete de la Rousse Hut, when we were passing again the dangerous couloir, where the stones were falling in the afternoon without a stop. Here we met a group of six Swedes who wore no helmets. What happened with the famous Swedish saying “security goes first”?

Back at the Gouter Hut

There is a reason why people say that Mont Blanc is the most dangerous mountain in the world. It’s not because of the technical difficulty, but because of irresponsible tourists. Over 6 000 people have died on Mont Blanc. When I saw the approach of some of them, I understood that an accident is not quite a coincidence. The climb to Mont Blanc definitely requires both respect and experience. Hopefully nothing happened to either the Swedes or the Japanese.

To end on a more positive note though, I’d like to mention write a few more sentences about our accommodation at the Gouter Hut. The overnight stay is definitely the most expensive I have experienced in dormitories anywhere in the world. Views of the sunrise and sunset from the hut are, however, absolutely fantastic. Even here it is definitely worth to spend one night. Look at the pictures.

Sunset watching from the Gouter Hut
Sunset watching from the Gouter Hut
Sunset watching at the Gouter Hut
Sunset watching from the Gouter Hut
Sunrise at Gouter Hut
Sunrise at the Gouter Hut
Sunrise at the Gouter Hut
Sunrise at the Gouter Hut

My tips for climbing the mountain Mont Blanc:

  • Proper acclimatisation and good weather conditions are the key.
  • If you are a beginner, you should definitely not consider the ascent without a mountain guide or a friend who has experience in movement and safety on a glacier. Keep in mind that Mont Blanc is the deadliest mountain in the world and you should behave accordingly.
  • If you are a beginner, choose the so-called Classic route via Gouter Hut. Book at least two nights in advance at the Gouter Hut or Tete de la Rousse. If you require accommodation in a dormitory, you must make a reservation at least half a year in advance. If a tent rental at the Tete de la Rousse Hut is enough for you, you can be more flexible. I recommend this option because you might sleep better. There will be less snoring people around you.
  • If you are an experienced mountaineer, try the Three Peaks route. It is a very demanding ascent, but with fewer tourists and there are no tenting restrictions.
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June 25, 2023 • 0 Comment
How to climb the highest peak of Croatia Dinara (Sinjal)?

Croatia has become a very popular seaside destination recently. However, only few tourists visit the local mountains, which is a great pity. Croatian mountains are beautiful. The highest point on Croatia Dinara was named after the Dinaric Mountains, a 700-kilometer-long mountain range system that spans over almost all the countries of the former Yugoslavia. The mountains are wonderful and offer amazing views. The hike to the highest point of Croatia isn’t a challenge technically but it can get very hot there so bring enough water. For more details and tips read my article below.

Important information for climb of Dinara 

Short description of the ascent: Standard hike with no water on the way
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear and a lot of water especially during hot summer months
Best time to visit: Possible all year round 
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Knin
Starting point: Glavaš 
Height of the peak: 1831m 
Climbing distance: 7,4km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Dinara: 2,5-4 hours up, 2-3 hours back 
Elevation climbed: 1237m up (one way) 
Water availability on the mountain: At elevation around 1000m there was a well with water but don't trust it. It can get dry during summer heat
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Karlovačko ** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the best route to Dinara (Sinjal)

The easiest route and also the most popular one starts nearby village Glavaš (see the map below). There is a small parket lot and a possibility to camp as well at the starting point. The route goes gently up along an old castle and it is well marked so you don’t have to worry about getting lost. I just recommend to follow route to the left once you reach a small plateau with a crossroad. We went right to ring a bell in a small rock church on the way and the route ended soon after.

Map of the best route to Dinara (Sinjal)

My story of climbing Dinara with personal tips

Sweden’s highest mountain Kebnekaise was supposed to be the last one on my expedition EU Peaks. Due to the accident in Scotland, however, I lost a week so I eventually had to skip Dinara. In the end, I decided to climb it 12 days after the originally expected end date of the expedition.

I had climbing partners even this time. My brother Štěpán and his friend Maruška decided to join me. We had all visited Croatia many times, like most Czechs, but we never visited Croatian mountains. How will they be?

We arrived to the city of Knin which is known for the war between the Serbs and the Croats. Fortunately, the houses destroyed or damaged in the war have either disappeared or have been reconstructed and the town in the foothills of Dinara mountains became a nice touristic destination.

Bring a lot of water

View over Dinara
You can see Dinara already from long distance

We took a healthy lunch (a plate full of seafood) and drove by car to the starting point of our hike which is nearby the small village Glavaš. There was a small parking lot where we left our car and immediately started our hike. We passed the ruins of an old fortress and continued on a well marked path. It was really hot and we soon drank all our water supplies. Fortunately, there was a small water supply at a height of 1000 meters above sea level so we could fill up our stomachs and bottles. We enjoyed a moment in the shade of the trees nearby the water supply.

Which way bro? Left or straight??

After the short break, we continued and soon reached a shelter for mountaineers in case of bad weather. However, it looked inside more like a dormitory for the homeless so I do not recommend sleeping here overnight. On the contrary, it might be a good idea to bring a tent. The surrounding meadows are beautiful.

Maps in Croatia don’t work 100%

Nearby the shelter there is a crossroad. My brother and I checked the map and decided to go straight. This path looked more attractive on the map, heading to a nice little church in the rock on the way. The problem was that the path ended after another 300 meters. We had two choices – to go 200 elevation meters down and head on to the left or continue up according to the map.

Left was the correct answer so we chose straight

Since the route was marked on the map with the same thick line as the one on the left, we decided to continue. This made the journey more interesting. It was a fun off-road hike but my brother didn’t share this opinion and called me a few “beautiful” Czech words. In the end we overcame all obstacles on the way including bushes and rocks and we reached the peak successfully.

Back on the correct path

Despite the delay, we got up early enough to enjoy a beautiful sunset over the Adriatic Sea. I quickly pulled out the Czech flag to make a nice picture of the last mountain of my EU Peaks challenge and started taking pictures so that I could enjoy the view with my brother and Maruška with the peak beer Karlovačko.

Summit drone selfie! The last EU Peak conquered!
We made it!

My tips for visiting the mountain Dinara:

  • Take plenty of water with you, especially in summer. It is very hot in the Croatian mountains and there is only one water supply on the way.
  • If you like biking you can also consider visiting mountain Sveti Jure (1762m) nearby the city Makarska. This mountain is reachable by bike from sea level and offers excellent views.
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June 18, 2023 • 0 Comment
All you need to know about climbing Slovenia’s highest point Triglav

Triglav Mountain is very popular among Slovenians. Apart from the fact that the mountain itself is on the state flag, there is also an unwritten law that every Slovenian should climb to the top at least once in a lifetime. I was respectful of the mountain because I was unable to conquer it for the first time when I was 12 years old. How did it go this time?

Important information for climb of Slovenia’s highest mountain

Short description of the ascent: Steep and long climb using via ferrata
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear + helmets + via ferrata equipment recommended
Best time to visit: June - Septempber 
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Triglavski dom na Kredarici
Starting point: Aljažev Dom 
Height of the peak: 2864m 
Hiking distance: 5,8km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Triglav: 5-8 hours up, 4-6 hours back
Recommended ascend in two days: DAY 1 - Aljažev Dom - Triglavski dom na Kredarici (via Tominškova pot); DAY 2: Triglavski dom na Kredarici - Triglav - Aljažev Dom (via pot čez prag)
Elevation climbed: 1885m up (one way) 
Water availability on the mountain: Triglavski dom na Kredarici
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak:  Union Black Unfiltered *** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the best route to Triglav

There are several routes leading to Triglav. You can choose the most popular route from Aljažev dom, which can be managed up via ferrata and down in one day (two days are recommended – see my tips below). Another option is to go to the top via the valley of the seven Triglav lakes. This route is a relatively long trek in one of the most beautiful valleys. Another option to reach Triglav is through the Krma valley, which is considered an easy ascent and with a minimum of people. In this article, we will take a look at the most popular summer ascent to Triglav from Aljažev dom.

Map of the best route to Triglav and back

Equipment for climbing Triglav

When climbing Triglav from Aljažev dom, a helmet is a must. Since many mountaineers choose this way to the top, it is common to wtness rock falls. Besides helmets,a via ferrata set is also recommended. I already had experience with climbing Triglav from my childhood, when rules and recommendations didn’t play as strong role as they should have so we climbed Triglav without via ferrata set. Nevertheless, I would never do it this way with my own children. Via ferrata equipment is strongly recommended to everyone who is afraid of heights and especially for children. The terrain is partly very exposed. I will return to my childhood experience later in the article.

My story of climbing Triglav with personal tips

Triglav was another moountain to reach within my project European Peaks. I took a night train to Slovenia after the successful summiting of the mountain Zugspitze. I arrived in the Slovenian city of Jesenice already at 5 a.m. so I was still very sleepy. That’s why I didn’t hesitate, and I unfolded my sleeping mat on the ground at Jesenice train station. I was so glad I wasn’t the only weirdo. Two Spaniards joined me, so I had no regrets to spend another night as a homeless man.

After two hours of pleasant sleep I went to a local bakery. Slanac for 0.40 EUR (typical local savory pastries) and krafne for 0.60 EUR (a typical local donut) stunned me after experiencing Western European prices. I had a great feast, which made waiting for my friend Mara more pleasant. Together we were supposed to reach the next summit.

Aljažev Dom
Time to climb Triglav

Demanding Tominsek route to Triglav

He arrived shortly and we immediately moved to the hut of Aljažev Dom, which is the best-known starting point for the mountain Triglav. The hike began roughly. We chose the more demanding Tominsek route, which offers both beautiful via ferrata and traverses across a deep slope.

Steep parts on the via ferrata on the way to Triglav
Some parts are very steep on the via ferrata on the way to Triglav

The nature of the Julian Alps still stayed in my memory. Many times, during the hike I remembered my first visit. When I was twelve, my parents and their friends with their children decided to summit Triglav. However, they made a major mistake. They decided to ascend and descend Triglav in one single day.

Climbing Triglav in one day is stupid

Why the rush? For less trained individuals (which they definitely were that time, sorry mum) and especially for children, it can be a too big challenge. I and the other children only climbed up to the Kredarica Hut, where we waited for our parents to return from the summit of Triglav. Or better said if they’d come back at all. In my child’s eyes, I didn’t give it a big chance. The thunderclouds on the surrounding hills looked pretty scary. Fortunately, the parents probably knew what they were doing and successfully returned from the top of Triglav.

That’s why I and my friend Mara decided to divide the climb in two days. In the end, the opening ascent of 1700 meters of altitude took us 4.5 hours and we were at the Kredarica Hut. There was no mountain spring water along the way, so we were very thirsty.

The cosy Kredarica Hut

We immediately attacked the local bar and ordered a beer. After a few zips of the beer we felt refreshed and started to talk to local tourists. We were particularly interested in why the Slovenians were repeatedly talking about some “otrok” and pointing onto their children (Slovenian word “otrok” means “slave” in Czech). We asked what the “otrok” meant. The father in the family we talked to proudly pointed to his child: “This is my otrok in Slovenian.” What a lucky kid. How beautiful translations can be across Slavic languages.

The Kredarica Hut had a pleasant atmosphere. At each table tourists planned the climb for the following day while eating their dinner and drinking beer. Fortunately, it was forbidden to “kadit” at the table, as the signs on the wall showed (Slovenian word “kadit” means “to smoke” in English, in Czech it means “to shit”). Those who wanted to smoke had to go out (we were glad for that). I would say that the father of people of Slavic nations had made a lot of verbal puns from the mentioned languages.

Amazing sunset over Triglav

From the funny conversation with the locals, we were only disturbed by the sunset, which drew us out with its radiant golden color. And what a view it was! In the end, it showed up to be one of the most beautiful sunsets of my entire expedition. The clouds were flowing over the saddle and it created a beautiful show.

Epic view over Triglav during sunset
Epic view over Triglav during sunset

We really enjoyed this view. On the other hand, we were concerned about what kind of climb was waiting for us the following day. The initial part of the climb looked very steep. Is it possible to establish a safe route in such terrain? Mara even declared that he was not going anywhere the next day. To my remark that even my mom conquered the mountain he couldn’t give up though : “When your mom made it, I must too.”

Expect very steep climb before reaching Triglav
Expect very steep climb before reaching Triglav

Final via ferrata to Triglav

After the sunset show, we went to bed so we could get up at 5 in the morning to climb to the top of Triglav and catch the sunrise from the summit.

The morning wake up was difficult, but it definitely paid off. We avoided the crowds of cheering tourists climbing to the top. On the way to Triglav, we did not meet any single tourist who would slow us down on the narrow via ferrata, or would even threaten us. The ascent to the summit was ideally timed for the sunrise. It was a real beauty from the summit. We could not wish for better weather and we had the whole of Slovenia under us. It was great visibility, so we could even see the distant Grossglockner in Austria.

The top of Triglav during spectacular sunrise
The top of Triglav during spectacular sunrise

The way down took us half an hour longer than the ascent. The tourists started to form similar queues as I experienced earlier on Grossglockner. This time we didn’t mind though. The sun was shining, it was not cold, and the views were still breathtaking. When we returned to Kredarica Hut, the weather was perfect. To celebrate the ascent, we fell asleep on sunny benches for an hour.

Never ending descent

After a well-deserved nap, we headed back to the valley. For the descent we chose the second route this time – Prag route. It was supposed to be less steep and therefore more gentle for the knees. However, it was very similar to the first route in my opinion. While descending I chose my favorite method – the quicker you go, the faster you will have it behind you, and I managed to run down the whole hill in 2h45 minutes. I waited for my colleague while having a refreshing beverage.

Half an hour passed, then another hour passed, and Mara was still on the way. I remembered my mom 15 years earlier as she returned in the darkness and could hardly walk. Will a similar fate await even Mara? After an hour and a half, he finally managed to come back, apparently tired as hell. What’s important, we’ve both made it.

Relax at romantic Bled

After a quick snack, we headed to the renowned Bled Lake to relax. We weren´t keen on waking up very early in the morning, but we did it in the end. The sunrise over Lake Bled with its picturesque isle and the church in the middle, sounded tempting. And it was worth it. A beautiful spectacle. I haven’t seen many more romantic places. I understand why Bled is a popular place for lovers. Around the lake we met more or less only couples in love holding each other´s hands. Pity that I was at Bled only with Mara and not my girlfriend that time.

Sunrise over the lake Bled
Sunrise over the lake Bled

My tips for climbing the mountain Triglav:

  • Stay over in the Kredarica Hut. There is no hurry to climb Triglav in just one day. You will avoid an afternoon storm which is very frequent during summer and you will be able to enjoy beautiful sunset from Kredarica.
  • Wake up very early for the summit day. You will avoid the crowds.
  • If you have an extra day, spend it around the lake Bled.
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June 11, 2023 • 0 Comment
How to climb the highest point of Slovakia Gerlachovský Štít?

Gerlachovský Štít is a unique mountain of the European Peaks project. It is the only highest mountain of a European country where it’s forbidden to reach the peak on your own. If you want to climb, you need a guide. That’s why I also was a bit stressed before my climb there. Is it a safe climb? In this article, I summarize all you need to know about climbing the highest peak of Slovakia. It’s a challenge but the reward in terms of experience and views is worth it!

Important information for climb of Gerlachovský Štít

Short description of the ascent: Short but steep climb
Essential equipment: Climbing gear necessary - rope, harness and helmet
Best time to visit: June - October 
Fees or restrictions: Yes, guide necessary 
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Sliezsky Dom
Starting point: Sliezsky Dom 
Height of the peak: 2655m 
Climbing distance: 3km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Gerlachovský Štít: 3-6 hours up, 2-4 hours back 
Elevation climbed: 1007m up (one way) 
Water availability on the mountain: Only at the starting point
Difficulty level: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak:  Prešovský medový ležák ****** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the best route to Gerlachovský Štít

There are several climbing routes to Gerlachovský Štít but the most popular one and the one which is used by local guides starts at Sliezsky Dom. There you can get either by a green trail from Tatranská Polianka or you can also order a taxi. The climb starts at Velická Dolina after you pass the lake Velické pleso. From there, it leads directly up via Velický žlab. It’s difficult to find the route because it isn’t marked. This is another reason why a guide is a must. The climbing continues to mountain Kotlový Štít and from there it’s already close to the highest peak of Slovakia via ridge.

On the way down, another route is usually taken. It goes down on the other side of the ridge to Batizovské Pleso. From there, it’s a regular hike back to Sliezsky Dom via Tatranská magistrála.

Map of the best route to Gerlachovský Štít and back

My story of climbing Gerlachovský Štít with personal tips

As I already mentioned in my article about the ascent to the highest mountain of Poland Rysy, I wasn’t lucky with the weather in the High Tatras. My first attempt to climb Gerlachovský Štít was on the 29th of June. Because it is obligatory to climb the highest mountain of Slovakia with a guide, my father and I ordered one (price 262 EUR in 2018) via Spolok Horskych Vodcov (the association of mountain leaders) and set up a meeting at 5 a.m. in our village Starý Smokovec.

Some mountain guides are crazy

We hoped to climb Gerlach before 10 a.m. I didn’t like our guide from the beginning. The first thing he said was: “Why the hell do you have such a huge backpack? And it is so heavy!” Obviously he didn’t really understand photographers or never met any. He didn’t even listen to me so I had to say goodbye to all my camera equipment. When I repacked we were ready to go.

The first attempt to summit Gerlachovský Štít

Our guide took us to the starting point of the climb Sliezsky Dom by car. He distributed all the security equipment and we started to hike up. The first 400 elevation meters were just a simple hike. It is usually a good warm up for the subsequent climb. This day was a bit different though. It was very windy and temperatures were close to 0 degrees Celsius.

It was obvious that the climb will be very tough. We reached the starting point of climbing within an hour. When we were roping up, two other groups of climbers were just on the way down: “We climbed 200 meters up and there was a freezing fog and crazy wind so we didn’t dare to take a risk. Time to return.” It was obvious. The weather won today. We didn’t feel like risking it either. The only group which didn’t care and decided to climb was a group of four Polish climbers.

Waiting for the weather

What can you do in the mountains when the weather is bad? We hiked a bit along the famous hiking route Tatranská magistrála and then didn’t find any better plan than coming back to our village to plan the next days above a chilled beer in one of the nicest cafés of my expedition. We decided to go to an easier mountain first until the weather calmed down (read what happened on mountain Rysy).

Hiking on Tatranská magistrála

Three days later, it finally looked like the weather would be better. We ordered another guide and we met at 6 a.m. at Sliezsky Dom. The morning was cold but the sky was completely clear and, most importantly, it was not windy. Today it is the day! Because of my previous experience I brought a smaller backpack this time. Our second guide didn’t like that one either though. He said that my backpack is still too heavy but this guide was at least listening to me, so we made some compromise in the end and I could at least bring up my camera, small tripod and a few lenses 🙂

Our second guide checking our equipment

Climbing to Gerlachovský Štít is an amazing experience

After the initial hike we roped up again and we finally started to climb. Our speed was great so we passed several climbing groups. Both my father and I enjoyed the climb a lot. It looked like that our guide is happy with our speed too despite my heavy backpack. It didn’t take a long time to get up to the ridge. We had a nice view to both sides. Unfortunately some clouds were starting to show up on Gerlachovský Štít. Starting a climb at 6 a.m. during summer is late if you want to have a cloud free view over the High Tatras.

Our guide showing us the High Tatras after reaching the ridge

Too late for a view

On the positive side, the wind was still calm so we could easily reach the peak. We were the first ones to reach Gerlachovský Štít in the last three days so we could enjoy the view on our own. Unfortunately, half of the view was already covered by clouds. Anyway, it was pretty warm so my father and I could enjoy our peak beer in peace, while our guide enjoyed his peak cigarette.

On the top of Gerlach with my father

After half an hour on the top we slowly started to descent. We took a different route to Batizovské Pleso and from there we hiked back to Sliezsky Dom via Tatranská Magistrála.

View at Gerlachovský Štít from Batizovské Pleso

The climbing difficulty to Gerlachovský Štít is lower than expected

The climb itself wasn’t as difficult as I expected but I was very happy to have our guide with us. The rope makes it feel much safer, especially at some exposed parts and the guide knows the route very well since he has climbed the route more than hundred times before. I think finding the route without a guide would be a big problem because it is not marked at all. Book your own guide too if you decide to climb this amazing mountain. It is even forbidden to climb on your own anyway and if caught you will get a very high fine! And that is not fine 😉

Happy climbing and wait for a new article which will appear soon. Next time from a mountain surrounded by wineries. Can you guess which one?

My tips for the mountain Gerlachovský Štít:

  • Book your guide here in advance and try to avoid weekends which are usually very busy.
  • Spend some extra time in the High Tatras in case of bad weather so you also can get a second attempt for the summit.
  • The climbing isn’t very difficult.  This mountain is perfect for well trained beginners.
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June 4, 2023 • 0 Comment
How to climb the highest point of Bulgaria Musala?

The mountain Musala is the proud highest mountain of the Balkans. The Greeks would happily erase this mountain from the map to have their Mount Olympus highest but Zeus is not that strong anymore. This mountain can be proud of ranking first in one of my charts. I spent a night in the most cosy mountain hut there lying just 400 meters below Musala. Together with beautiful nature around it is definitely another mountain I recommend to climb.

Important information for climb of Musala

Short description of the ascent: Easy but long hike, possible to take a shortcut with a lift
Essential equipment: Regular hiking gear
Best time to visit: June - October 
Fees or restrictions: No 
Camping allowed: Yes 
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Ledeno Ezero hut, Musala hut
Starting point: Borovets village (see the map below) 
Height of the peak: 2926m 
Hiking distance: 12,6km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Musala: 5-7 hours up, 4 hours back 
Elevation climbed: 1590m up (one way) 
Water availability on the mountain: small rivers and lakes on the way
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak:  Glarus Saison **** (6 stars maximum)

Description of two best routes to Musala

While there are many starting points to start your climb to Musala, the best one lies in the village of Borovets. There are several parking lots in the centre so it’s easy to leave your car behind and start the hike through Rila national park.

Since Borovets is a very popular ski resort in winter you have an option to take a shortcut up via a chair lift. It will save you 1000 elevation meters. Chair lifts were forbidden though for me on my adventure European Peaks so I followed a well marked trail to Musala hut first and then to Ledeno Ezero. This hut is one of the highlights of the trip so I recommend to spend a night there. Since it’s nearby the top, it’s easy to catch the sunrise over the whole Bulgaria. The panoramic views are wonderful.

Map of the best route to Musala

My story of climbing Mount Olympus with personal tips

After four climbed EU Peaks (Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania) in five days I needed a break. Good that I climbed Moldoveanu Peak two days in advance compared to my plan so I could take a short break. Since I had never been by the Black Sea before I decided to spend some time in Varna, one of the most famous Bulgarian sea holiday resorts.

The way to the sea was interesting. I changed trains at the border between Romania and Bulgaria and since I had no Bulgarian cash I had to leave the train station to find a cash machine. When seeing the streets of the city Ruse I felt like I returned 50 years back in time. Communist architecture everywhere and no traces of Western development. I was most amazed by the subway where I found a local poker club. Could you think of a more cosy spot to play cards?

Luckily, the cash machine was not far and it worked so I could buy a refreshing beer to survive the train without air condition to the beach. Varna was great. I enjoyed the beach, local bars and cheap food. Perfect two days of rest.

Varna

Musala stands above the largest ski resort in Bulgaria

After I charged new energy I went to Sofia to meet my friend Rikki who was to join me for the next two mountains in Bulgaria and Greece. After a small breakfast and quick sightseeing we headed towards the largest ski resort in Bulgaria Borovets which is also the starting point of the hike to Musala.

Sofia and short sightseeing at Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

You have two options how to get up to the top. Either you are lazy and you take a cable car halfway up or you take a nice walking path through the forest. Since cable cars are forbidden on my expedition, Rikki and I took the path. Before we set out for our journey it was raining the whole day so the path was pretty muddy. However, the advantage was that the weather put off other tourists. I read in several blogs before that Musala is usually very touristic so we got lucky and met only a few brave climbers not scared of mud and wet hiking paths.

After 2 hours of steep hiking, Rikki passed a big milestone. At 1604m he was at the highest level in his whole life, passing his previously managed highest, the Czech mountain Sněžka. At this point, the forest also started to fade away and we could enjoy views around the ski resort.

Bulgarian ghost town

In the end, it took us  three hours to reach the first cabin on the way. It’s called Musala hut but I would rather call it “the ghost hut.” The building was cold, abandoned and very dark. The only weird thing was that the door said: OPEN. I tried my luck and I called: “Is anyone here?” and suddenly an invisible man hidden in shadow behind the bar asked: “What do you wish to order, Sir?” “Two beers, please” I replied surprised and scared. In return Rikki and I got our beers, surprisingly not provided by a bony hand.

The first sip of the beer before we realized it’s not safe to stay inside

My friend and I didn’t really like the atmosphere inside so we enjoyed our beer outside with a view over Musala. The bartender disappeared again in the darkness of his mysterious home. Out of nowhere, the first tourist occurred. His name was Chris and he was from Germany. “Hi, what’s your plan today?” we asked hoping for a new partner in case our destination hut Ledeno Ezero is a ghost hut too. “I am staying here. I’m already tired and I will climb Musala tomorrow.” he answered. Since we are nice guys we told him our experience to save his life but Chris insisted on his plan and stayed. Good luck Chris!

View from the Musala hut over Musala

Fairy tale grandma

We finished our energy drinks and started to march up towards Musala again. Half an hour later, Chris showed up. “I couldn’t stay there. It was too scary. Guys, I am following you.” What a surprise. We knew it. I wouldn’t like to see the statistics of how many people survived the night there.

Ledene Ezero hut

We reached the cabin Ledeno Ezero hut in next 2 hours. From our previous experience, we expected the worst but the result was completely opposite. In this warm and cosy hut we were welcomed by an old lady with a smile on her face and a welcome tea. We started to dry our clothes and shoes and we got two amazing soups in a minute. For even a better mood, the host started to play old hard rock songs with ACDC, Metallica, Guns n’ Roses and other classic rock stars. She got quickly her new nickname: The Rock n’ Roll grandma. Even though she didn’t speak any English and we didn’t speak any Bulgarian we had a nice conversation for a few hours in kind of Czech-Russian-Bulgarian-mime language. We also got a tasty main dish and a free shot as an appetizer.

Rock n’ Roll grandma at Ledene Ezero hut

The brightest Milky Way I’ve ever seen

The top of Musala was already close and the weather forecast was promising so our goal was obvious. Let’s get to the top for sunrise. We went to the bed at 10 p.m. so we still had enough time for a decent sleep. The problem occurred when I went to the toilet at midnight. The sky got completely clear and I saw the nicest Milky Way in my life. Shit. I have to capture this. In the end, I stayed outside for two hours shooting stars under Musala. You can judge yourself if it was worth it.

Milky Way above Musala

Watching sunrise from the top of Musala

The alarm at 4 a.m. was then tougher but seeing sunrise on the top made us get out of the bed in record time. We packed our breakfast and started to scramble up to Musala. 35 minutes later we were on the top just in time to catch the sunrise. Amazing. From freezing temperatures the sun suddenly turned the mountains into a pleasant place for an early breakfast.

View from the mountain Musala

We stayed for some time and enjoyed the scenery of the Balkan mountains but not too long because we knew the Rock n’ Roll grandma was waiting for us with second breakfast. Afterwards, the way down went without any problems and we even found our car where we parked it so we successfully finished our Bulgarian mission.

My tips for the mountain Musala:

  • Avoid the scary Musala hut and head instead to Ledene Ezero hut which is perfect for staying over.
  • Check in advance if there is any pilgrim tour to Musala. It can be both an interesting experience to see or annoying crowd heading to the highest Bulgarian point. It depends on the angle of your view.
  • Bulgarian mountains are perfect for watching the Milky way. If you come there in the time of new moon and you get lucky with clear sky you might see the nicest Milky Way of your life (especially if you haven’t travelled outside Western Europe where the light pollution is too strong to see stars)
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May 28, 2023 • 0 Comment
How to climb the highest point of Greece Mount Olympus?

Mount Olympus belongs to my favourite mountains in Europe. The mountain of gods is so beautiful that I quickly understood why Zeus and his colleagues chose this mountain to rule from. The climb is long and demanding but the experience and views are worth the effort. In this article, I will give you all information you need to successfuly reach the peak and also a secret tip how to make most out of the trip to the Olympus Range. 

Important information for climb of Mount Olympus

Short description of the ascent: Demanding long hike, it's recommended to do in two days
Essential equipment: Hiking gear for long and demanding hikes, helmets
Best time to visit: June - October 
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: huts Christos Kakkalos, Giosos Apostolides and Spillos Aqapitos
Starting point: Prionia (see the map below)
Height of the peak: 2918m
Hiking distance: 9,6km (one way)
Time to ascend to Mount Olympus: 7 hours up, 4 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1928m up and 168m down (one way)
Water availability on the mountain: huts Christos Kakkalos, Giosos Apostolides and Spillos Aqapitos
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Olymposbeer Golden (dark lager) *** (6 stars maximum)

Description of two best routes to Mount Olympus

There are multiple options how to reach the highest point of Greece Mount Olympus, also called Mytikas. I will describe the most popular route which is also the shortest and also my favourite one which is a bit longer but it should be taken in my opinion because it includes wonderful view over the peak. 

  • Option 1: Straight from parking lot Prionia to Mount Olympus (Mytikas) via hut Spillos Aqapitos – this route is the shortest and can be made on one long day or in two days with a night spent at the Spillos Aqapitos hut. 
  • Option 2: From Prionia to Mount Olympus (Mytikas) via Christor Kakalos hut and mountain Profitis Ilias – I strongly recommend this route because the view from the plateau around Christor Kakalos hut over Mount Olympus is magnificient. In fact, it’s even better than from the top of the mountain. I recommend to stay overnight at Christos Kakalos hut and hike up for nearby mountain Profitis Ilias for unforgettable sunrise during which you can marvel at the majestic mountain on one side and Aegean sea on the other.

Both of the routes include very steep part of the final summit where you will have to scramble. Helmets are strongly recommended as there are loose stones.

Map of the routes to Mount Olympus

Option 1: Straight from parking lot Prionia to Mount Olympus (Mytikas) via hut Spillos Aqapitos

Option 2: From Prionia to Mount Olympus (Mytikas) via Christor Kakalos hut and mountain Profitis Ilias

My story of climbing Mount Olympus with personal tips

I climbed Mount Olympus within my project European Peaks during which I managed to climb the highest mountain of every European country in a year. I was using Interrail service and I had the most interesting story on my way from Bulgaria to Greece so here starts my story.

I was lucky with the weather in the Bulgaria and it looked promising also for the rest of my Balkans trip so I was looking forward to climbing the highest mountain of Greece. However, before I start talking about the actual summit I would like to introduce the amazing travel with Bulgarian railways which I used on the way to Greece. Over +30° C, no air condition, broken window opening system, no water to buy.

Our luxurious train to Greece

Luckily, the miracle happened at the border with Greece. For some unknown reason we had to leave the train and wait for another one operated by Greek railways. To make our waiting less boring we passed the border with a bus overtaking the longest queue I have ever seen. What luck we live in Shengen.

Random stop at the border

After a quick security check we reached probably the most remote village in the whole Greece with stray dogs and still no shop to buy water or food. This will be our stop for another hour. Both we and the dogs are hungry and thirsty. Unfortunately the dogs don’t know we have no water and no food so they are begging and begging. This is not the best occasion for people who are scared of dogs. I rather sit aside hoping that the train comes soon.

Waiting for a new train

After half an hour, two strangers come and offer to me and my friend a beer. Miracles do happen! We quickly became friends with these two Interrail travellers American Wyatt and French Joyce. We talk about our experiences on the road and about our misery in the Bulgarian trains.

Inconvenient and tiring travelling results in new good friends

Short sightseeing before our climb

The train arrives soon. Compared to Bulgarian trains another extreme is waiting. It is freezing cold in the train because of too strong air conditioning. I take on new clothes and with newly ordered beers we continue towards Thessaloniki. Wyatt becomes more and more interested in my expedition and soon decides to join us for the Greek adventure. Rikki and I have nothing against it.

Quick sightseeing in Thessaloniki

The weather forecast was good for the following days so we didn’t wait and decided to directly go to conquer Mount Olympus. We hired a car and left to the village Litochoro. I wasn’t driving so I was googling a bit and I found by accident the Olymposbeer which was on the way. What a coincidence!

When we reached the “brewery” we found out it is just an office with only one employee who couldn’t speak any English. We could at least practice our mime though and obviously, it is good! After 15 minutes of awkward conversation we each received a bottle of beer. Now we are ready for the climb!

Climbing in sandals?

The hike starts at a small parking lot above Litochoro village called Prionia. I was happy we are on the way but after a few steps Rikki and I got shocked. Wyatt is wearing sandals. “Seriously, Wyatt?” we asked. “You will actually need to climb during the last part of the summit.” “Calm down,” he replied. “I climbed in these amazing shoes a 10 000 feet mountain. No worry”. We didn’t have any idea what his mountain could look like but he looked persuasive so we trusted him and decided to continue.

The journey is long and steep. It’s late afternoon and we meet dozens of tourists on the way down. Nobody is hiking up. It doesn’t take long time before we reach the first hut on the way. We get some liquid energy and continue. The tree level is disappearing and we start to have a view over the sea. So rewarding. It also becomes colder. Wyatt’s feet are cold so he puts on socks and we start to hike faster to reach our destination. After four hours from the start we reach the plateau below the peak of Mount Olympus.

View over Mount Olympus from the plateau close to refuge Christos Kakkalos

Don’t miss epic view over Mount Olympus during sunrise

Wow. What a beautiful mountain. I didn’t make much research in advance about what Mount Olympus looks like and it was right choice. It is probably the most beautiful mountain of all EU Peaks. For better atmosphere, the setting sun created amazing light. We nearly felt that Zeus will show up. It was a perfect time to reach our destination Refuge Christos Kakkalos.

Refuge Christos Kakkalos after sunset

Dmitrij, the responsible at this cabin, was very hospitable. We got amazing local food and talked with him and other guests until late evening.We didn’t omit the local tsipouro either. Yamas!

The best view over Mount Olympus is from Profitis Ilias

We woke up early in the morning but this time not to climb to the top of Mount Olympus. Instead we decided to reach another mountain Profitis Ilias nearby to have a view over the majestic mountain of gods. In addition to this view we could also watch the waking Sun above the sea. It was definitely a good decision. This was magnificent scenery.

Panorama view from the mountain Profitis Ilias

We enjoyed the amazing scenery for some time but we knew we were still expecting a tough climb so we got back to the Christos Kakkalos hut, we rented helmets and we finally started to hike up to Mount Olympus.

The view was so awesome that here you have also a cropped picture from the previous panorama and view just over Mount Olympus

Steep final summit to Mount Olympus

First we traversed to the beginning of the climbing trail and after a few hundred meters the real adventure starts. For the last time we ask Wyatt if he thinks it is a good idea to climb up in his sandals. However, he confirmed again that we have nothing to worry about. Well, let’s go up.

We slowly scramble up with Rikki when we suddenly hear the singing: “Wyatt, why did you do this, this, this? Wyatt, you are such an idiot, idiot, idiot. Come on man, you will survive this, this, this.” It’s clear. Wyatt has a problem. “Are you okay? Do you have problems with your sandals?” we ask. “No. The sandals are okay but I forgot to say I’m afraid of the heights.” We didn’t know what to say. Seriously? “What now? Do you want to come back?” “No. It will be even worse. I have to climb up.” Wyatt stopped looking down and didn’t give up. He took a deep breath ten times and continued upward. The climb was not long and after a few minutes we all reached the top of Mount Olympus. Rikki and I enjoyed the view and Wyatt made a triumphant selfie with his sandal.

Celebrating the successful climb in Zeus’ home

Well deserved relax at the beach

We enjoy the Olymposbeer peak beer and sunbath in an already warm sun for about an hour. The view over the sea is though very tempting so we decide to return to Litochoro and later to the nearest beach. I would like to write that the chilled typical Greek ouzo which we ordered on the beach was the best reward for the two-day effort in the mountains. Unfortunately, I have to write that I have never drunk anything more disgusting. Anise is just not my cup of tea, so I bought instead the wheat Greek beer Alpha. With that, the view from the sea to the mountain where we sunbathed only a few hours ago was much more pleasant.

The closest beach from Mount Olympus, perfect for chill after a tough climb

I think I will have to come back sometimes, especially after the local people told us their experiences with freeride skiing in the winter.

Thanks for the great hospitality at Refuge Christos Kakkalos!
Next time I am back for backcountry skiing

My tips for the mountain Mount Olympus:

  • If you are on a holiday in Greece, do not omit the mountain Mount Olympus. This is one of the most beautiful mountains in Europe.
  • I recommend to start hiking later in the afternoon, spend night at the refuge Christos Kakkalos and climb the peak early in the morning. You will avoid the crowds.
  • Before the actual summit don’t miss the view from Profitis Ilias
  • Please, don’t bring sandals 🙂
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May 21, 2023 • 0 Comment
How to climb the highest point of Romania Moldoveanu Peak?

The Făgăraș mountains in Romania are a majestic range of rugged beauty. If you are looking for wonderful mountain ridge hike with minimum of other visitors, this is a place for you. You’ll most likely meet only sheep on the way. Among the mountains on the main ridge one stands out – Moldoveanu, the highest summit. Climbing Moldoveanu’s peak requires courage and endurance. It lies more than 13km from the nearest village and therefore is usually climbed in two days but it’s so worth it! Not only the summit but the whole journey offers unforgettable views over surrounding peaks, valleys, and lakes.

Important information for climb of Moldoveanu Peak

Short description of the ascent: Very demanding long hike on the mountain ridge
Essential equipment: Hiking gear for long and demanding hikes
Best time to visit: June - October (Be careful of strong storms during high season)
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Bâlea Lac and hut Caban Podragu
Starting point: village Bâlea Lac (see the map below)
Height of the peak: 2544m
Hiking distance: 13.1 km (one way) - be careful - demanding both ways
Time to ascend to Moldoveanu peak: 8 hours up, 7 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1429m up and 965m down (this means only one way - important to count on the way back!)
Water availability on the mountain: hut Cabana Podragu and a stream under mountain Mircii (see the map below)
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Silva Black (dark lager) *** (6 stars maximum)

Description of two best routes to Moldoveanu Peak

The highest point of Romania – Moldoveanu Peak is very remote compared to other highest mountains of European countries. It’s recommended to climb it in two days because the distance from the nearest village Bâlea Lac is very long and the hiking path to the peak is very hard with many ascends and descends. I recommend to stay at Cabana Podragu on the way or bring a tent. Regarding the route, you have these two main options:

  • Option 1: Bâlea Lac – Cabana Podragu – Moldoveanu Peak – Bâlea Lac: This option is a bit shorter but it’s very hard because you will have to hike the tough ridge both ways.
  • Option 2: Bâlea Lac – Moldoveanu Peak – Cabana Podragu – Victoria: This option is a bit longer but it has the advantage that the way back to civilization is descending.

I myself selected the second option but I have to admit it didn’t feel like an easier route. It was very long and demanding too. There is no easy way to and from Moldoveanu Peak.

Map of the route to Moldoveanu Peak

Option 1: Bâlea Lac – Cabana Podragu – Moldoveanu Peak – Bâlea Lac

Option 2: Bâlea Lac – Moldoveanu Peak – Cabana Podragu – Victoria

My story of climbing Moldoveanu Peak

I have to be honest. Moldoveanu Peak is the mountain which I underestimated most of all European Peaks I climbed. Starting at 2030m and looking at the map showing 2544m for the highest peak makes the underestimation easy. In the end, it became one of the toughest hikes with the first injury. On the other hand it became also the hike with one of the best views and least tourists. Follow my steps in the Făgăraș mountains.

To Moldoveanu Peak via one of the most amazing roads in the world

My trip to the highest peak of Romania started in a night train from Hungary. I was lucky to book one of the last beds in the train so I could charge some energy before the fourth EU Peak in four days! I was happy that also my mum wanted to join for one EU Peak and she chose Moldoveanu Peak. She was already waiting for me with my father in the city Făgăraș, the city which gave its name to the mountain ridge with the highest mountain of Romania. The city itself is though not interesting at all. We took a short lunch break and continued up to the mountains.

Soon we reached the starting point of our hike which is located at Bâlea Lac pass. The drive up was epic and it is not surprising. The Transfăgărășan road was named one of the most amazing roads in the world, definitely the most scenic car drive of my trip.

Time for some hiking with my parents

The weather forecast was very good so I made a brave plan to tent on Moldoveanu Peak. I was really looking forward to this challenge. My parents seemed to look forward too. We packed our backpacks and I took all of my equipment with me including a tent, a sleeping bag, a mattress, clothes, food and of course my drone and all camera equipment. Altogether my backpack was 30kg. This hike was supposed to be a test for a one week long hike across Swedish mountains. Is it a good idea?

Fascinating ridge of Făgăraș mountains

The initial climb to the mountain ridge isn’t really difficult and after half an hour you have a magnificent view. We thought that the toughest part was behind. Then, we walked on the ridge up and down and enjoyed amazing views around. I think you can’t find such a nice grassy landscape anywhere else.

View from the ridge over Transfăgărășan

After ca 3.5km we stood in front of a fork. Should we take an easier route via refuge Cabana Podragu or should we take a more scenic route and continue on the mountain ridge via trail called “Three steps from the death”? We still felt in shape so we decided for the more challenging route.

Mountain route called “Three Steps from Death”

Three Steps from Death

Unfortunately, that showed up to be a big mistake. The hike would be okay with light backpacks but carrying 30 kg wasn’t fun at all. After a few hundred meters the most crucial part occurred. We had to use steel chains to get further up and subsequently down. At one point my mum lost balance and fell on her back. When my father and I looked at her we knew directly that this won’t be okay. “I twisted my ankle” she said in pain.

At this point, Moldoveanu Peak had to go aside. We had to come up with a rescue plan. I first thought we would have to call an ambulance but my mum said: “No, if I stop the ankle becomes swollen and it would be even worse. I have to continue to the nearest civilization.” My father and I were surprised by her decision but he couldn’t say anything against. She is the doctor. Looking at the map we were in the worst position. We were at two thirds in between our starting point and refuge Cabana Podragu.

It was getting dark and we still didn’t reach the cabin

My mum refused to go back the same way so we decided to continue to the cabin. She tightened her shoes and we continued walking. We became slower and the sun started to go down. We realized soon that we won’t manage to reach the cabin before sunset. Instead, we decided to build tents. I found a nice tenting spot on top of a mountain only 40 meters lower than Moldoveanu Peak. Look at the view I had from my tent.

Green paradise going to sleep

How to get my mum safely home?

After sunset we were planning what to do the following day. The shortest way for my mum to get to civilization was to continue to the cabin Podragu and then down through a valley to village Arpașu de Sus so we decided for that. My father wanted to make everything easier so he decided to go back to our starting point to pick up the car to make my mum’s journey shorter. I decided to wake up at 4 am to conquer Moldoveanu Peak in early morning and join my mum later at cabin Podragu.

This solution had one certain advantage. I still have the opportunity to climb the highest mountain of Romania! The disadvantage was that my sleep was very short. It could be longer but I decided to take pictures of Milky Way. It was such a beautiful night.

Don’t bring too heavy backpack to the mountains

In the early morning I woke up very tired but visualizing myself on the top gave me energy to start my hike. I was still halfway from our starting point though. I passed the last pieces of snow from last winter, witnessed a beautiful sunrise and enjoyed views over spacious green mountains. The journey was long and there were no people around. The only living beings I met were sheep.

It could be an amazing day but I always had in my head my injured mum waiting for me so I tried to hurry as much as I could. Two hours later though I needed a break. I suddenly became too tired to continue. I decided to put my tent and sleeping bag under a large stone to have a lighter backpack. My hike became better but not for a long time. Soon I was tired again. The backpack was still over 20kg. I decided to even leave my drone and my computer under several stones in order to be able to continue.

On the top of Moldoveanu Peak

One more hour and I finally conquered Moldoveanu Peak. I was super tired but the view was excellent. A pity I couldn’t enjoy it for a long time because my mum was waiting. I didn’t want to let her go alone. In the end I stayed only for the essential pictures and I headed back.

Tired on the top of Moldoveanu Peak

On the way back I realized I didn’t have any local money and no food either so my mum was the only potential source of new energy at cabin Podragu. After realizing that I even started to run back. Luckily, I found one energy bar Lifebar Protein in my bag which gave me enough energy to see my mum. She was still waiting. She said her deadline before leaving was in ten minutes. How lucky I was.

View from Moldoveanu Peak

Never ending descend

I ordered a local soup, main dish and a local beer. Much better. I felt like a reborn Jarda. I felt ready to descent. My mum got new energy too but her ankle hurt. Let’s hope we’ll make it. If I said the journey to Moldoveanu Peak was long, then I don’t know what to say about the descent to the village Arpașu de Sus. First few kilomters were scenic but once we got into forest the journey got boring and never ending. Even my watch turned off because of low battery. That long was this terrible descent.

Besides my parents, the only living beings I met in Romanian mountains

When it looked like we are finally reaching road where my father was supposed to wait, the path suddenly started to go up. One curve, second curve, third curve, fourth curve until I suddenly screamed: “Kurv∗!” Only 10 more curves up and finally the hill ended. Then we just had to go steeply down and there was my father waiting. We managed!

After taking off her shoes, my mum’s ankle got three times bigger and she wasn’t able to walk on it for one month. Never underestimate mountains. This could end up much worse but we managed in the end. So proud of my parents.

My tips for the mountain Moldoveanu Peak:

  • Don’t underestimate Moldoveanu Peak.
  • Make the summit in two days. Tent halfways or stay over in cosy refuge Podragu.
  • If you have longer time you can cross the whole Făgăraș mountain ridge. The whole trip takes ca 7 days.
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Zugspitze
September 20, 2019 • 0 Comment
PEAK 22: Germany – Zugspitze

I don’t know if it was the intention of the Germans, but the name of the mountain Zugspitze corresponds to reality. Zug means train and it indicates that it is possible to get to the top completely without using energy thanks to a cable car. Unfortunately. Zugspitze is a beautiful mountain with perfect views, but the amount of tourists going up is spoiling the atmosphere.

Date of summit: 15th August 2018 11:50 
Traveling mode: Hiking 
Height of the peak: 2,962m 
Hiking distance: 17.31 km (Day 1) 
Hiking distance: 4.66 km (Day 2) 
Time to ascend From Ga-Pa to Knorrhütte: 5 hours 22 minutes 
Time to ascend from Knorrhütte to Zugspitze: 2 hours 28 minutes 
Map of my hiking journey to Ga-Pa to Knorrhütte: Movescount (I had wrong settings, inaccurate) 
Map of my hiking journey from Knorrhütte to Zugspitze: Movescount (I had wrong settings, inaccurate) 
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Aecht Schlenkerla ***** (6 stars maximum)

I took an epic road to Germany by train from Innsbruck. The road led through a beautiful alpine landscape. In addition to this beauty there was a thunderstorm, so the mountains were even more dramatic. When I arrived in Ga-Pa, the change in the weather took its toll. The temperature dropped by 20 degrees, and I started quickly freezing in my shorts.

It was great that the ordered hotel was nearby. After 15 minutes of walking I got to the most beautiful accommodation of the whole journey so far. The hotel looked like a castle, no exaggeration. And even the staff behaved according to that. I got some champagne as a proper welcome, and after the formalities we followed to a beautiful room. I did not hesitate and immediately jumped into the soft bed.

Hotel Zugspitze
My room in the castle hotel

After half an hour of relaxing, Björn, a friend of mine, arrived and timed his arrival just for a prepared dinner. I pulled out the most decent clothes I had (shorts and a short-sleeved T-shirt) and set out to test the 5-course Bavarian dinner. Such dinners could be more often on my table during my expedition. I really enjoyed it.

Partnach route to Zugspitze

After an unusually long sleep, we headed for breakfast where we finally started to plan our summit to Zugspitze. You can get to the top in several ways. Unfortunately, the simplest option, namely the use of the cable car is used by most people. My opinion, however, is that cable cars are enemies of the mountains, so this way was not possible. Another and for me the most appealing option was the shortest but the steepest route via ferrata. Unfortunately, this route was not suitable due to unfavorable weather forecasts. It’s not the smartest choice to climb the rocks in the rain. The simplest walking route I ruled out mainly because it leads from Austria and so the last option won. 21 km long hike directly from Garmisch to Zugspitze with an elevation of 2000m.

We headed out at 11 a.m. and the maps suggested that the journey would take 10 hours. We were supposed to be at the top just before sunset. The journey began above my expectations. At first, I was disappointed that I had to pay 5 EUR admission for some ravine, but after the entry I did not regret it for a minute. Honestly, this gorge is even more interesting and dramatic than the famous Caminito del Rey (which I saw in Spain). A wild river modeled a deep rocky canyon. The dramatic image of the morning was amplified by the morning thunderstorm, so the water not only flowed in the river but was also dripping everywhere from the peaks of the rocks. I give my warmest compliments to the trail builders for what they have managed to create for tourists here.

The Partnach Gorge is gorgeous
The Partnach Gorge is gorgeous

Heavy rains are not fun

After this marvelous introduction, a long, boring period came with almost zero elevation. In order not to get too bored, the nature prepared a heavy rain for us. At that moment we longed only after a hut, where we could hide and get some energy. But it occurred not earlier than after long 10 km… We came to the Bockhütte Hut completely soaked. The mood was improved as late as when we filled the tank in form of a local dark wheat beer. Simply perfect. I wish that brewers in Czech Republic and Sweden visited Bavaria and learned to brew this luxurious beer.

Simply amazing Weizenbier on the way to Zugspitze
Simply amazing Weizenbier

From this hut the nature started to vary more and get even more beautiful. The woods began to thin and we began to enjoy beautiful views of the surrounding peaks of the German Alps. The path rose slowly but surely higher and I saw how Björn was looking more and more tired with every meter of altitude. I tried to motivate him, but without success. Unfortunately, his talks about his previous training were not entirely true. It was soon clear that we had no chance of getting to the Zugspitze at this rate.

Our last break before ascend to Zugspitze
Our last break before ascend

Proper training is a must

We passed another hut where we had a small snack and the first steep climb was in front of us. When I saw Björn’s pace, I started to worry. Will we get at least to the Knorr hut under the Zugspitze before it’s dark?

I went first to explore the terrain and, after a short walk, stopped to wait for Björn. He was apparently not coming. I waited for about 15 minutes and Björn was still not in sight. What if something happened to him? So I went back and after a few minutes Björn appeared. But I started to worry about him, so I decided to lighten his load in his backpack. Unfortunately, Björn without food and a two-liter bottle of full water was not faster.

In addition, the clouds began to descend quickly, and after a while the first drops fell. My backpack was really heavy now, so I went ahead again. When the distance between me and Björn grew longer, the clouds descended so low that we could not see anything. Hopefully Björn wouldn´t panic and would continue his journey.

Clouds slowly getting lower in German Alps
Clouds slowly getting lower

I didn’t want to let him go alone in the fog, so I went to find him back again. After a while I found him but he was this time completely without energy. The next hut was supposed to be only 1 km away according to the online map. However, I feared that the heavy rain we had witnessed in the morning could come back again, so I just grabbed the whole Björn’s backpack and went up with both backpacks.

Unfortunately, Björn without a backpack was still not faster than Jarda with two. Carrying two backpacks was not quite comfortable, so I raised the pace to make it as fast as possible. Fortunately, the hut emerged from the fog after half an hour. I waited another 15 minutes for Björn and luckily the fog finally spit him out, too. We made it. Not to the top, but at least to the Knorr hut under the Zugspitze, where Björn would be able to relax.

Recharging energy at Knorrhütte

We sat down in the restaurant and ordered a beer. I couldn´t withstand it and I confronted Björn. One cannot say that he is in good shape when he is not. Björn told me before the trip that he had been training several times in the mountains before and he was always one of the fastest in the group. But the reality was different. If I had known that, we could have chosen an easier route. Had the weather been even worse, something could have happened. When you go to the mountains, you must know if you will manage. Fortunately, everything turned out well. I just knew it didn’t have to…

Knorrhütte just before sunset
Knorrhütte just before sunset

The next morning during sunrise it was still foggy, so we got on the road at 8 o´clock in the morning. After another 500 meters of elevation, Björn rationally chose to simplify the journey to the top and took a cable car. The weather, unlike the previous day, was favorable, so I could take up a rocky path backed by a steel rope. I would compare this journey to the Tatra Mountains. Well-secured, no overexposed moments. I think there’s no need for belaying in nice weather.

Via ferrata to Zugspitze
Via ferrata to Zugspitze

Busy top of Zugspitze

Björn got to the top sooner of course and waited with two typical white sausages and wheat beers. Thanks, Björn for this tasty reward. The Bavarian kitchen – that´s something I love. However, the disadvantage of the Zugspitze peak showed too. And that is the cable car. Tourists who probably had been in the mountains for the first time took a lift to the summit.

According to their clothes, I’d rather think they were going to either a gala dinner or to a beach. They didn’t seem to understand that it was going to be cold in almost three thousand meters above sea level. They topped this smart behavior when they tried to get to the nearby summit, which can only be reached through a short, but interesting via ferrata. I just feared for some of the girls wearing high heels to fall from a few-hundred-meter-high cliff. Fortunately, my expectations were not confirmed, and so the ladies were nicely matching the fully equipped mountain climbers at the top cross.

Valuable moment - noone on the top of Zugspitze
Valuable moment – noone on the top of Zugspitze

When I finally got through the crowd of tourists, I could enjoy a breathtaking view. The clouds had just spread out, and I got to see a deep valley with arguably the largest German glacier. However, the view did not last for a long time, and I was too slow to pick up my camera, so I just have this picture of dense milk covering Zugspitze.

View over the end station of the cable car from the top of Zugspitze
View over the end station of the cable car from the top of Zugspitze

We decided not to walk down. We love our knees and the journey would take another 8 hours. So, we decided to take the “enemy” cable car. The ticket for 33 EUR hurt, but that´s life.

View over Zugspitze from the start of the cable car
View over Zugspitze from the start of the cable car

My tips for the mountain Zugspitze:

  • Book your accommodation on the top of Zugspitze. If you do so you can enjoy precious time when there are no tourists on the top when the cable car is closed.
  • Try the via ferrata if it is nice weather. I am very sad I didn’t try it.
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August 6, 2019 • 0 Comment
PEAK 21: Austria – Grossglockner

Grossglockner was one of the toughest challenges of the whole European Peaks expedition. You have to cross a glacier on the way up and the last part is very exposed so securing on rope is essential. It was also the first mountain after I was in the car accident in Scotland so I was pretty nervous. Luckily, I found the best climbing partners so the experience was amazing. Follow my climb to the highest point of Austria. 

Date of summit: 12th August 2018 8:00 
Traveling mode: Hiking 
Height of the peak: 3,798m 
Hiking distance: 8,12 km (Day 1) 
Hiking distance: 1 km (Day 2) 
Time to ascend to Erzhog Johann Hütte: 6 hours 
Time to ascend from Erzhog Johann Hütte to Grossglockner: 3 hours 
Map of my hiking journey to Erzhog Johann Hütte: Movescount (I had wrong settings, inaccurate) 
Map of my hiking journey from Erzhog Johann Hütte to Grossglockner: Movescount (I had wrong settings, inaccurate) 
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Edelweiss Dunkel ***** (6 stars maximum)

After the accident in Scotland I was sure my expedition was over. I lost all my equipment and I was very depressed. It is difficult to describe the feeling but I was just lying on my bed with negative thoughts about what happened and what could happen. I didn’t have any motivation to do anything, felt hopeless and didn’t know what to do next. Should I just cancel my remaining holiday and go back to work? Should I stay a bit at home to recover?

Amazing support from family and friends helped me to set out again

People around me couldn’t help me either. I had to make some decision myself. The problem was that I was not able to do that. I was so desperate that I visited a psychologist for the first time in my life. We had a long discussion and the psychologist found out that I actually deep inside wanted to continue and finish the remaining mountains. She found out the most important thing: I hate giving up.

As I said I didn’t even think about continuing after the accident because I was scared about failing and I didn’t want to let others down again. But it was true. I just didn’t want to give up. The meeting brought the right spark for my decision. I would do all my best to continue and to finish the expedition!

The highest mountain of Austria - Grossglockner
Next mountain to reach – Grossglockner

On the one hand, it was a wise decision. I still had all the tickets booked and many friends were waiting for our appointed climbs. On the other hand: was it even possible? I didn’t have any equipment and almost no money. But I decided to give it a try. I posted on social media that I need help and what equipment I am looking for. The response was amazing. I managed to borrow and rent all the equipment I lost within just 24 hours. Only thanks to my amazing family and friends around me I regained the lost trust and I believed again I can make it. That assured me. I should get back to the mountains.

My gear fixed in 24 hours
Expedition equipment fixed in 24 hours

Grossglockner is one of the most challenging mountains

I quickly packed all the new equipment and set out on the trip. Let’s climb Grossglockner! I met my friends Martin and Stefan in Austria and we continued together to the car park at Lucknerhaus. That’s where our two day climb started.

Looking stupid in my mum's sunglasses
My mum even lent me her glasses (she has more or less the same dioptres). I looked like an idiot but it worked. Let the journey begin.

At the beginning it was a very easy hike with stunning views. We expected potential difficulties after the hut Städlhütte because there is the beginning of the glacier. However, finding the way was very easy thanks to great visibility. The glacier was quite dirty but at least there were no dangerous cracks. The traverse over the glacier took only about an hour. Then we only had a short via ferrata in front of us and we soon reached the hut Erzhog Johann Hütte.

Quickly melting glacier under Grossglockner
Quickly melting glacier under Grossglockner

Erzhog Johann Hütte is a very cosy place to stay. We had a great dinner there and even better beer. Unfortunately, we had no view because clouds arrived. Instead of views over the fog, we rather went to bed on time. Next morning we had to wake up early.

Wrong weather forecast sent us into freezing fog

The alarm clock rang at 4 am. Our plan was to catch the sunrise on the top of Austria. We started the climb in the darkness and dense fog. Unfortunately, this was again a time when the forecast was completely wrong. Luckily, we were not the first ones climbing up so we could follow a path in the glacier. It took us about an hour to pass the glacier and then the true climbing began.

Climbing on Grossglockner started
Climbing on Grossglockner started

Unfortunately, it was still very foggy so the navigation was very difficult. This time there was even no path so it was even more difficult to find the correct way up. We got lost several times which meant an hour delay. Luckily, more and more people were showing up coming from the hut so it was subsequently easier to follow the correct route.

The view opened up only for a very short but beautiful moment on the way to Grossglockner
The view opened up only for a very short but beautiful moment

Due to the delay, we lost the opportunity to catch sunrise on the top but it didn’t really matter. The clouds were still occupying Grossglockner. At least, we were back on the correct route so the climb got easier.

Grossglockner needs traffic lights

Suddenly, the visibility improved a bit and we realized we are already on the final ridge. That time, the first climbers started to return from the summit as well. However, that was the beginning of our worst Grossglockner experience.

It was very exposed on the ridge and there were almost no places where you can pass a climber from the opposite direction. The queues started to form and they became very long in a while. Administrators of the Grossglockner route should consider building there traffic lights. There were simply too many people. We had to wait sometimes even twenty minutes at a time. The rocks were covered with frost and the wind was getting stronger with every elevation meter. During such a long waiting time you will get cold. We started to freeze.

Crazy queue on the way to Grossglockner
Crazy queue on the way to Grossglockner

Finally, the first 30 climbers overcame the narrow passage leading from the top and we could finally continue ascending. Our hands were frozen but the climb let us warm up. Luckily, the top was already not far. We soon spotted the cross on the top emerging from the clouds. In the end it took us three and half hours to reach the summit. Unfortunately, it was still cloudy so we had no view.

If you want to climb Grossglockner avoid summer weekends

On the way down, the situation from the way up repeated several times. Queues really ruined the overall experience of our climb. The worst were some irresponsible groups which refused to wait. Instead they were hurrying up and putting others in risky situations. Next time I would never climb Grossglockner during the weekend again.

Very busy on top of Grossglockner
Very busy on top of Grossglockner

After descending about 200 meters, finally the weather improved. The clouds disappeared and we finally had a wonderful view over the largest glacier in the eastern Alps – Pasterze. This view was certainly worth the effort.

View over the beautiful glacier Pasterze
View over the glacier Pasterze

Descending with recovered weather was much easier. We soon passed the cabin Erzhog Johann Hütte and had a celebration lunch under the glacier on Städlhütte. We made it. One of the toughest climbs managed despite bad weather!

Lastly, I would like to thank a lot my climbing partners Stefan and Martin for the best company and especially their climbing experience. Without you I would never get up to the peak!

View over Grossglockner - northern side
View over Grossglockner – northern side
View over Grossglockner - southern side
View over Grossglockner – southern side

My tips for the mountain Grossglockner:

  • Avoid climbing Grossglockner during weekends. The mountain is extremely busy. I suggest climbing it during autumn when the summer tourists disappear as well.
  • The climb is technically demanding. You need glacier experience as well as climbing experience. If you lack any of these two, don’t even try to climb the mountain on your own. Find an experienced climbing partner or a mountain guide.
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