Crown of Europe Archives - The Best Viewpoints

July 23, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to reach the highest point of Vatican – Vatican hill?

Vatican is the only country in Europe where the highest point is not named so it is simply called Vatican Hill these days. There is nothing to be surprised about. The Vatican has no real mountain. But of course there is a highest point so I had to visit it too if I wanted to visit the highest point of every European country. Vatican Hill is located in the Vatican Gardens. You might think it will be the easiest highest point to reach but it is surprisingly a difficult task to visit this high point. If you want to reach it you need to book a guided tour months in advance due to its popularity. In this article, I will give you tips and my own experience from Vatican Hill.

Important information for reaching Vatican Hill

Short description of the ascent of Vatican Hill: Guided tour which must be booked ahead
Essential equipment: No special equipment necessary
Best time to visit: All year around
Fees or restrictions: Yes, you have to pay a ticket for the guided tour. Check the current price here
Camping allowed: No
Height of the peak: 75m
Distance to the top: 3,05 km (the whole guided tour)
Time to ascend from the top of cable car to Vatican Hill: 1 hour 40 minutes
Elevation climbed: 86m (the whole guided tour)
Water availability on the mountain: Yes, there are cafes and shops on the guided tour
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum)
Beer on the peak: Birra Roma Bionda **** (6 stars maximum)

Map of Vatican Hill’s location

My story of reaching Vatican Hill with personal tips

After completing my expedition EU Peaks during which I managed to reach the highest point of every EU country, I was broke. Unexpected expenses after my accident in Scotland forced me to come back to my job. During the autumn of 2018 I was saving as much money as possible to start a new expedition.

I was close to the world record in climbing the highest point of every European country which was at that time 364 days. Will I manage to beat this record? I would have to reach all the mountains by June 24th 2019. Is this possible? It means there will be many winter climbs.

Visit of European ministates

I started visiting the highest points again at the end of 2018 and beginning of 2019. Follow my visit of the dwarf countries in Italy/France – Vatican, San Marino and Monaco. I traveled there with my girlfriend Joanne and two good friends from Sweden, Chilean Emiliano and his Swedish girlfriend Anna.

Our journey began in Rome, a city which is regarded by many people as the most beautiful city in the world. I had never visited Rome before so I was very curious about it. We selected our accommodation as close as possible to the Vatican in order to visit the highest point of the country early in the morning. This is the best way to avoid the crowds of tourists that are famous for Rome.

Tickets to Vatican gardens

It was the right decision. We could see the walls of the Vatican and the famous St. Peter’s Basilica right from our window . It is the largest church in the world. It is 211 meters long and 27 meters wide.

*St. Peter’s Square is without tourists* *during sunrise*

The next day I let my friends sleep and I got up early to welcome the sun at St. Peter’s Basilica. I wanted to take the shortest way but I was still sleepy so I went in the opposite direction. In the end I circled the entire Vatican. I vainly hoped that the Vatican had several entrances. When I finally found the St. Peter’s square the sun just started to rise. It was beautiful and the square was completely empty. I was the only tourist there. I took a panorama picture of the square and came back to our accommodation to pick up my friends for a pre-booked tour of the Vatican Gardens.

View over Vatican gardens from the Dome of st. Peter's Basilica — *View over Vatican gardens and the highest point Vatican Hill from the Dome of st. Peter’s Basilica*

Getting the tickets to Vatican gardens was the biggest challenge to reach the Vatican’s highest point. It must be ordered months ahead because they are sold out very quickly. The advantage of the ticket is that a visit to the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museums are included. This time “climbing” will be accompanied by a rich cultural program.

Thanks to the confusing morning I knew this time exactly where we should go for the tour, so we got there in time. We skipped a kilometer long line with our pre-purchased ticket and we went looking for our guide.

Exciting pope stories on Vatican Hill

Unlike the other highest points, the visit of the highest point of Vatican was not physically demanding. On the other hand one must be patient. Before we reached the Vatican Hill we had to listen to many histories of different popes. Our guide turned out to be a deep fan of all the popes, telling us both her personal or passed on stories of thirteen of them. Her tour took over two hours. When we got to the “peak”, I was glad to have a secret escape for a while to take some photos and to take a break from the pope stories.

*Selfie from the highest point of Vatican gardens*

A visit to the gardens was worth it anyway. The Vatican gardens are charming. The Pope is a happy man that he can stroll through such natural and calm beauty every day in the middle of a busy city.

Unbelievable view over Rome

Although the highest point of the Vatican is in the gardens, some also regard the viewpoint of St. Peter’s Cathedral as the highest point. Of course we could not miss it. We planned it for the next day, again in the early morning to avoid queues. Opening hours from 7 am saved us again from crowds and we basically had the whole viewpoint of Rome for ourselves. The view from the dome of the cathedral is truly monumental. Those who visit Rome should have this place on top of their must-see list.

*The view from the Dome of st. Peter’s Basilica*

After a four-day visit of Rome, I was thinking if it was really the most beautiful city in the world. From a historical point of view, it probably has the most interesting monuments I have ever seen. I agree with that. I wasn’t impressed though about the overall picture of the city. The main disadvantage of Rome is the excessive tourism. From lunch time on, the city is overcrowded. If you want to visit any museums or viewpoints you have to spend a long time in queues. Although I was glad that my expedition provided me with this cultural bonus, I was looking forward to the mountains again.

*Another viewpoint which I enjoyed a lot is from the Altar of the Fatherland*

My tips for visiting Rome and Vatican Hill:

Get up early and visit the main sights before other tourists wake up.
The most beautiful view in Rome is from St. Peter’s Cathedral and from the Altar of the Fatherland.
Many tickets can be purchased in advance on the internet. For example, if you want to avoid a several hours long queue for Coliseum tickets, buy them online.

July 16, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest point of Liechtenstein – Vorder Grauspitz?

Vorder Grauspitz is a sharp peak in the alpine mountains Rätikon and you can experience there one of the most exciting hikes in Europe. The ascent to the summit via the most common route is unique as you have to pass a tunnel. In addition, you can expect a climb in a very steep terrain and there is no marked path to the top. Even though Vorder Grauspitz is only 2599 meters high it caused me big difficulties. It became the only mountain of the entire expedition European Peaks, where I had to give up during my summit day. I had to return again under more favorable conditions. What happened? Follow not only general tips of Vorder Grauspitz but also my personal experience and tips how to reach the peak.

Two possible routes to Vorder Grauspitz

The two routes below describe ways to Hinter Grauspitz. From Hinter Grauspitz to Vorder Grauspitz you will follow the same route. It isn’t far but there is a very exposed ridge in between and there is no path. Therefore, it’s necessary to follow the ridge leading to Liechtenstein (the same way as the Liechtenstein route follows) until it isn’t too steep (around 2400m) and then you traverse towards Vorder Grauspitz. Once you reach the opposite rdige, it gets less steep and it gets easier to get to the top. I highly recommend to bring very good shoes as the steep terrain will be tough four your ankles. There is also many losse stones. Be careful! For more understanding, I am adding a picture taken from Vorder Grauspitz and tips how to reach it

Blue arrow leads to Hinter Grauspitz on the ridge
Red arrow is recommended route if you want to skip Hinter Grauspitz via Liechtenstein route
Orange arrow symbolizes potential shortcut if you want to reach Hinter Grauspitz too. We took this way but the conditions can vary in summer/winter so decide you your route based on current conditions

Normal route from Malans, Switzerland: This route is most often used to reach Vorder Grauspitz because you can save hundreds elevation meters via cable car called Älplibahn. You will find it in the village Malans in Switzerland. From the top of the cable car you will walk through wonderful nature offering amazing views. The best views are coming at a pass of 2050m. From there, you can see Vorder Grauspitz for the first time. On the way, you will pass multiple farms (we bivouaced at Fläscher Alp to make the summit for sunrise next day) and also a tunnel which is used to transport sheep even these days. The route is easy to follow but I recommend to bring GPS navigation as it isn’t clearly marked and there are many crossroads on the way.
Route from Liechtenstein: This routes starts in at a parking lot nearby village Steg in Liechtenstein. This route is more demanding because you will need to pass much bigger elevation and the path isn’t marked from approximaely 1750m. Therefore, a GPS is a must. Scrambling is necessary too at some parts of this route.

Maps of the climb to Vorder Grauspitz

Normal route from Switzerland

Liechtenstein route

Important information for climb of Vorder Grauspitz via normal route from Switzerland

Short description of the ascent from Malans, Switzerland: Demanding hike with scrambling, the last part of the hike is very steep and unmarked.
Essential equipment: General hiking gear, hiking poles and stable hiking shoes recommended for great stability in the steep parts.
Best time to visit: June - Septmeber
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes, above the tree line
Height of the peak: 2599m
Distance to the top: 9 km (one way)
Time to ascend from the top of cable car to Vorder Grauspitz: 4-6 hours up, 3-5 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1210m (on the way up), 301m (on the way back) 
Water availability on the mountain: Yes, last time at the farm Alp Ijes.
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Club Bier 06 Summer Ale *** (6 stars maximum)

My story of climbing Vorder Grauspitz in winter conditions with personal tips

The biggest surprise of the expedition European Peaks was waiting for me in Liechtenstein. This ministate hides a polished treasure. After successful summit of the most challenging mountain of the whole expedition the Crown of Europe – Dufourspitze I wanted to climb one more mountain – Liechtenstein Vorder Grauspitz. Since I heard the climb can be very challenging I decided to climb it with a guide.

We arrived to recently renovated cable car Älplibahn at seven o’clock in the morning. We were told that there is still a continuous snow cover from the cable car’s end station so we took up again back country skis.

On the top we were stopped by an employee of the cable car: “At this time of year the ascent to the summit is very difficult, probably even impossible. This year brought unusually so much snow that I doubt you will manage. Be careful! There can be even avalanches.” We assured him we’ll be careful. Let’s see.

We put our skis on and started our journey. We climbed 200 elevation meters up to the first ridge from which there is a great view of Grauspitz itself. This mountain has actually two peaks – Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz. The marked path leads only to Hinter Grauspitz, which is twenty-five meters lower. Between the two peaks is a very sharp ridge. We’ll see how possible it will be to reach it when we get there.

*The first view over Vorder Grauspitz (the sharp remote peak in the middle of the picture)*

Now there was a valley between us and Grauspitz, so we had to go down and climb up to the opposite ridge. It was nine o’clock in the morning and it was already very warm. The snow turned into a wet slush. The mountain guide warned me in advance: “The conditions are very risky. Avalanches are possible. I’ll go first and see.”

His ride across the slope tore down a small and slow but very heavy and wet avalanche. Climbing Grauspitz in these conditions will be really difficult. We will see what the situation will look like on the other ridge.We skied down to a small farm Fläscher Alp which was covered with snow up to the roofs. This year’s winter has been very generous.

While we continued to the other side of the ridge it was clear that snow was melting fast in this weather. It was most visible on a rocky hill on the other side, where small avalanches were falling very frequently. Soon we reached a hole in the rock. The trail continued through a tunnel. We took off our skies and walked towards the other side of the tunnel but there was an unpleasant surprise. 95% of the entrance was covered by snow. What now?

We had to start digging to get out. After a while we succeeded and we saw Grauspitz from the other side. However, that was the last positive news. More than three meters of wet snow and very steep terrain meant that we can’t continue. It would be too dangerous when it comes to avalanches. This time the weather and the mountains said no. We can’t get to the top. However, the mountain will stay. I’ll try to climb another time.

*Crazy amount of snow at the end of the tunnel*

Attempt No. 2

14 days later I was on the way back. I had big respect to this mountain due to the first experience so I was very careful this time. Before my journey I wrote to the Swiss Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research to see if there was any avalanche danger on Grauspitz. They weren’t actually releasing any statements anymore. June is already off season. However, I got a reply to my email: “There is still over a meter of snow at the top of Grauspitz but the snow cover is stabilized. There should be no avalanche danger in case there will be a freezing night before your summit day.”

After return from Russia I had to wait a few days for the freezing night but it came! Time for the last summit of my expedition.

On June 13 I met again with my two climbing partners who climbed with me the highest point of Switzerland. We all met by the cable car Älplibahn. In order to climb the mountain under the best possible conditions, we decided to meet one day before the summit day to sleep under the peak and go up very early in the morning. This should ensure perfect snow conditions. As we planned we did. We brought again our back country skies but this time we also brought common hiking shoes in case the snow melted.

It was gloomy down by the cable car but as soon as we arrived to the end station of the cable car we got above the clouds. We had a wonderful view of the ocean of clouds and small islands of the snowy Swiss Alps. When the nice old gentleman saw us he immediately laughed, “Haha. Next try? I told you, Grauspitz will not be climbable until the end of June. There’s still over a meter of snow behind the tunnel.” We will see.

This time we didn’t put on skies. There was no snow until the first ridge. What a change in just two weeks! Then we could ski at least for a while until we reached Fläscher Alp farm. Our plan was to sleep there. We originally thought we would just bivouac outside but the weather changed our plans. Clouds suddenly began to rise and covered even the farm. After a while, it even started to rain. Since we didn’t bring any tent we were looking for an alternative accommodation. We were lucky one of the houses for cattle was open so we could sleep on the floor. Nothing luxurious but better than in rain. .

*The snow melted significantly in Fläscher Alp in two weeks*

It was late so we just pulled out our mats and sleeping bags and went to bed. But I didn’t sleep well. “What if the clouds cover the whole mountain and it won’t freeze at night? Was the prediction wrong again? What if I went to the highest mountain in Liechtenstein again, unnecessarily?”

When we woke up at 3:30 a.m. we went outside to check the weather. Still foggy and wet. Our only hope was that the peak remained cloudless. Since we didn’t know what conditions are behind the tunnel brought the back country skies and hiking equipment. I also had to take two pairs of crampons because one pair was fitting my hiking shoes and one was fitting my skiing boots. All together my backpack weighed 20 kilograms.

At 4:15 we were ready to leave. It was as dark and foggy but there was no snow until the tunnel so we reached it easily. At the other end of the tunnel, I was expecting a lot of snow. After all, there were over two meters just two weeks ago. But now? Nothing. All the snow melted. What a surprise! Maybe we didn’t even had to bring the skies.

We continued to the nearby farm Alp Ijes. There was finally snow. It was still foggy but luckily it was freezing so the snow was compact and stable. “We can climb up.” our mountain guide said. Time to ascend.

We continued up according to the navigation. We were still climbing in the fog with bad mood. Hopefully the rising sun will dissolve the clouds. After a while the hope came true. The blue sky began to appear in the clouds above us. We continued up for a few more minutes and got above the clouds. Suddenly we saw all the beauty around. Sharp moutains, long ridges and especially the path we have to take to the top. Amazing. Suddenly I thought that we couldn’t have wished for better weather for the final peak than this one. How quickly the mood can change!

In addition to the great visibility, it was also noticeable that it was freezing on the ridge at night. The snow was hard and frozen. the way to the peak is free. We put down our skis and looked around to see where we would continue. There were two possible routes. Should we follow the ridge to Hinter Grauspitz and then continue to Vorder Grauspitz or should we skip Hinter Grauspitzl traverse along it and get to Vorder Grauspitz directly?

*Which way will be better to Vorder Grauspitz?*

The first alternative seemed to be less steep so we decided for that one. The second option seemed to be too steep at first glance. 80% of the climb to Hinter Grauspitz was on snow so we took crampons on. It was an easy climb. In half an hour we already reached the top of the second highest point of Liechtenstein. The view was beautiful. This part of the Alps is really amazing. Unfortunately, the journey we wanted to take wasn’t possible. The ridge between both Grauspitz was too steep and the rocks were very unstable after the tough winter.

Therefore, we had to return 200 meters down and go to the highest point via the traverse. This route was also very steep but the snow was hard so we could secure with our ice axes.

We passed the traverse in half an hour and we had ahead only the final climb. If all goes well, I’ll finish my expedition in about 15 minutes. From this point, the slope didn’t look as steep it looked from the ridge were we left the skies. This will be an easy climb if I compare it for example with our crazy climb to Maglić. We can do it!

During the last steps, my entire expedition was reflected in my head. In particular, I remembered all the difficult moments: When my mother sprained her ankle in Romania and I accompanied her back to civilization; when Joanne and I met a bear in Montenegro and we almost got scared; when I lost my hiking pole and had to go to the Dufourspitze with a broom; my accident in Scotland… I was beginning to realize that this wonderful ascent would be the last one of the expedition.

The final ridge was very narrow but it was still possible to pass it. In a few minutes I was finally standing on the top. The last mountain of the expedition was conquered.

*What a view you have from Vorder Grauspitz*

In the end, the climb was not as challenging as I feared. I was actually glad that we made the climb on snow. In the summer, climbing on the breaking stones and slippery grass would probably be much tougher. This was actually confirmed by other climbers who climbed Grauspitz in summer.

*Can you see the cross of Hinter Grauspitz?*

I opened the last peak beer and wanted to enjoy the moment of victory but half leaked when I opened it. It made dirty even my Czech flag which I prepared for the top photo. The life is not perfect. I enjoyed the moment anyway.

*Me on the top of the last peak of my expedition with Czech flag dirty of beer*

I wanted to stay on the peak longer but I couldn’t. Time was running out. My flight from Zürich was leaving in six hours. I had to catch the cable car latest in two and half hours so I had at least a theoretical chance to catch the plane back home.

The journey back was crazy. First we ran back to our skies, then we took quick downhill to Alp Ijes where I said goodbye to Petra and our mountain guide. “Thank you very much. I wouldn’t manage this without you. ”and had to continue further with twenty kg backpack. I ran back to Fläscher Alp farm, added a sleeping bag and mat to my backpack and continued to the cable car. My whole body ached, I was very hungry and thirsty, but there was no time to take a break. The tourists I passed were shaking their heads when they saw me running with all the equipment.

I reached the cable car two minutes before its departure. I wanted to rest there but two older but nice and inquisitive ladies kept me asking in the cabin. They also didn’t believe that it was still possible to ski at these altitudes. I showed them photos from the peak and they kept on asking. In the end, I didn’t find time to drink or eat in the cable car. The next opportunity will be at the airport.

The rest of the journey by car to the airport was crazy. I’d rather not describe it. If the Swiss police read it on this blog they would send me a few fines. The important thing was that I caught the plane last minute.

Now I am back at home in Stockholm and I am finally sitting on our couch. My girlfriend is opening champagne and says: “Congratulations to your World Record. You became the fastest to climb the highest mountain of every European country. You made it.” Until then, I wasn’t honestly happy about the completion of the expedition. I just had to hurry all the time. To the cable car, to the plane and to the train from the airport. But now I realize. When we discuss we Joanne all the experiences from last days I am realizing how amazing this expedition was. There is definitely something about the quote from the movie Into the Wild: “Happiness is only real when shared.”

My tips for climbing the mountain Vorder Grauspitz:

In winter conditions there is a big risk of avalanches. Before leaving to the mountains check the current \situation on the website of Swiss Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research
Surprisingly winter ascent may be easier than in summer due to slippery stones and grass in summer
GPS navigation with you is a must.
Chat with the employee of the cable car. He’s a very nice gentleman.

June 25, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest peak of Croatia Dinara (Sinjal)?

Croatia has become a very popular seaside destination recently. However, only few tourists visit the local mountains, which is a great pity. Croatian mountains are beautiful. The highest point on Croatia Dinara was named after the Dinaric Mountains, a 700-kilometer-long mountain range system that spans over almost all the countries of the former Yugoslavia. The mountains are wonderful and offer amazing views. The hike to the highest point of Croatia isn’t a challenge technically but it can get very hot there so bring enough water. For more details and tips read my article below.

Important information for climb of Dinara

Short description of the ascent: Standard hike with no water on the way
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear and a lot of water especially during hot summer months
Best time to visit: Possible all year round 
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Knin
Starting point: Glavaš 
Height of the peak: 1831m 
Climbing distance: 7,4km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Dinara: 2,5-4 hours up, 2-3 hours back 
Elevation climbed: 1237m up (one way) 
Water availability on the mountain: At elevation around 1000m there was a well with water but don't trust it. It can get dry during summer heat
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Karlovačko ** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the best route to Dinara (Sinjal)

The easiest route and also the most popular one starts nearby village Glavaš (see the map below). There is a small parket lot and a possibility to camp as well at the starting point. The route goes gently up along an old castle and it is well marked so you don’t have to worry about getting lost. I just recommend to follow route to the left once you reach a small plateau with a crossroad. We went right to ring a bell in a small rock church on the way and the route ended soon after.

Map of the best route to Dinara (Sinjal)

My story of climbing Dinara with personal tips

Sweden’s highest mountain Kebnekaise was supposed to be the last one on my expedition EU Peaks. Due to the accident in Scotland, however, I lost a week so I eventually had to skip Dinara. In the end, I decided to climb it 12 days after the originally expected end date of the expedition.

I had climbing partners even this time. My brother Štěpán and his friend Maruška decided to join me. We had all visited Croatia many times, like most Czechs, but we never visited Croatian mountains. How will they be?

We arrived to the city of Knin which is known for the war between the Serbs and the Croats. Fortunately, the houses destroyed or damaged in the war have either disappeared or have been reconstructed and the town in the foothills of Dinara mountains became a nice touristic destination.

Bring a lot of water

View over Dinara — *You can see Dinara already from long distance*

We took a healthy lunch (a plate full of seafood) and drove by car to the starting point of our hike which is nearby the small village Glavaš. There was a small parking lot where we left our car and immediately started our hike. We passed the ruins of an old fortress and continued on a well marked path. It was really hot and we soon drank all our water supplies. Fortunately, there was a small water supply at a height of 1000 meters above sea level so we could fill up our stomachs and bottles. We enjoyed a moment in the shade of the trees nearby the water supply.

After the short break, we continued and soon reached a shelter for mountaineers in case of bad weather. However, it looked inside more like a dormitory for the homeless so I do not recommend sleeping here overnight. On the contrary, it might be a good idea to bring a tent. The surrounding meadows are beautiful.

Maps in Croatia don’t work 100%

Nearby the shelter there is a crossroad. My brother and I checked the map and decided to go straight. This path looked more attractive on the map, heading to a nice little church in the rock on the way. The problem was that the path ended after another 300 meters. We had two choices – to go 200 elevation meters down and head on to the left or continue up according to the map.

*Left was the correct answer so we chose straight*

Since the route was marked on the map with the same thick line as the one on the left, we decided to continue. This made the journey more interesting. It was a fun off-road hike but my brother didn’t share this opinion and called me a few “beautiful” Czech words. In the end we overcame all obstacles on the way including bushes and rocks and we reached the peak successfully.

Despite the delay, we got up early enough to enjoy a beautiful sunset over the Adriatic Sea. I quickly pulled out the Czech flag to make a nice picture of the last mountain of my EU Peaks challenge and started taking pictures so that I could enjoy the view with my brother and Maruška with the peak beer Karlovačko.

*Summit drone selfie! The last EU Peak conquered*!

My tips for visiting the mountain Dinara:

Take plenty of water with you, especially in summer. It is very hot in the Croatian mountains and there is only one water supply on the way.
If you like biking you can also consider visiting mountain Sveti Jure (1762m) nearby the city Makarska. This mountain is reachable by bike from sea level and offers excellent views.

June 18, 2023 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about climbing Slovenia’s highest point Triglav

Triglav Mountain is very popular among Slovenians. Apart from the fact that the mountain itself is on the state flag, there is also an unwritten law that every Slovenian should climb to the top at least once in a lifetime. I was respectful of the mountain because I was unable to conquer it for the first time when I was 12 years old. How did it go this time?

Important information for climb of Slovenia’s highest mountain

Short description of the ascent: Steep and long climb using via ferrata
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear + helmets + via ferrata equipment recommended
Best time to visit: June - Septempber 
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Triglavski dom na Kredarici
Starting point: Aljažev Dom 
Height of the peak: 2864m 
Hiking distance: 5,8km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Triglav: 5-8 hours up, 4-6 hours back
Recommended ascend in two days: DAY 1 - Aljažev Dom - Triglavski dom na Kredarici (via Tominškova pot); DAY 2: Triglavski dom na Kredarici - Triglav - Aljažev Dom (via pot čez prag)
Elevation climbed: 1885m up (one way) 
Water availability on the mountain: Triglavski dom na Kredarici
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak:  Union Black Unfiltered *** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the best route to Triglav

There are several routes leading to Triglav. You can choose the most popular route from Aljažev dom, which can be managed up via ferrata and down in one day (two days are recommended – see my tips below). Another option is to go to the top via the valley of the seven Triglav lakes. This route is a relatively long trek in one of the most beautiful valleys. Another option to reach Triglav is through the Krma valley, which is considered an easy ascent and with a minimum of people. In this article, we will take a look at the most popular summer ascent to Triglav from Aljažev dom.

Map of the best route to Triglav and back

Equipment for climbing Triglav

When climbing Triglav from Aljažev dom, a helmet is a must. Since many mountaineers choose this way to the top, it is common to wtness rock falls. Besides helmets,a via ferrata set is also recommended. I already had experience with climbing Triglav from my childhood, when rules and recommendations didn’t play as strong role as they should have so we climbed Triglav without via ferrata set. Nevertheless, I would never do it this way with my own children. Via ferrata equipment is strongly recommended to everyone who is afraid of heights and especially for children. The terrain is partly very exposed. I will return to my childhood experience later in the article.

My story of climbing Triglav with personal tips

Triglav was another moountain to reach within my project European Peaks. I took a night train to Slovenia after the successful summiting of the mountain Zugspitze. I arrived in the Slovenian city of Jesenice already at 5 a.m. so I was still very sleepy. That’s why I didn’t hesitate, and I unfolded my sleeping mat on the ground at Jesenice train station. I was so glad I wasn’t the only weirdo. Two Spaniards joined me, so I had no regrets to spend another night as a homeless man.

After two hours of pleasant sleep I went to a local bakery. Slanac for 0.40 EUR (typical local savory pastries) and krafne for 0.60 EUR (a typical local donut) stunned me after experiencing Western European prices. I had a great feast, which made waiting for my friend Mara more pleasant. Together we were supposed to reach the next summit.

Demanding Tominsek route to Triglav

He arrived shortly and we immediately moved to the hut of Aljažev Dom, which is the best-known starting point for the mountain Triglav. The hike began roughly. We chose the more demanding Tominsek route, which offers both beautiful via ferrata and traverses across a deep slope.

Steep parts on the via ferrata on the way to Triglav — *Some parts are very steep on the via ferrata on the way to Triglav*

The nature of the Julian Alps still stayed in my memory. Many times, during the hike I remembered my first visit. When I was twelve, my parents and their friends with their children decided to summit Triglav. However, they made a major mistake. They decided to ascend and descend Triglav in one single day.

Climbing Triglav in one day is stupid

Why the rush? For less trained individuals (which they definitely were that time, sorry mum) and especially for children, it can be a too big challenge. I and the other children only climbed up to the Kredarica Hut, where we waited for our parents to return from the summit of Triglav. Or better said if they’d come back at all. In my child’s eyes, I didn’t give it a big chance. The thunderclouds on the surrounding hills looked pretty scary. Fortunately, the parents probably knew what they were doing and successfully returned from the top of Triglav.

That’s why I and my friend Mara decided to divide the climb in two days. In the end, the opening ascent of 1700 meters of altitude took us 4.5 hours and we were at the Kredarica Hut. There was no mountain spring water along the way, so we were very thirsty.

The cosy Kredarica Hut

We immediately attacked the local bar and ordered a beer. After a few zips of the beer we felt refreshed and started to talk to local tourists. We were particularly interested in why the Slovenians were repeatedly talking about some “otrok” and pointing onto their children (Slovenian word “otrok” means “slave” in Czech). We asked what the “otrok” meant. The father in the family we talked to proudly pointed to his child: “This is my otrok in Slovenian.” What a lucky kid. How beautiful translations can be across Slavic languages.

The Kredarica Hut had a pleasant atmosphere. At each table tourists planned the climb for the following day while eating their dinner and drinking beer. Fortunately, it was forbidden to “kadit” at the table, as the signs on the wall showed (Slovenian word “kadit” means “to smoke” in English, in Czech it means “to shit”). Those who wanted to smoke had to go out (we were glad for that). I would say that the father of people of Slavic nations had made a lot of verbal puns from the mentioned languages.

Amazing sunset over Triglav

From the funny conversation with the locals, we were only disturbed by the sunset, which drew us out with its radiant golden color. And what a view it was! In the end, it showed up to be one of the most beautiful sunsets of my entire expedition. The clouds were flowing over the saddle and it created a beautiful show.

We really enjoyed this view. On the other hand, we were concerned about what kind of climb was waiting for us the following day. The initial part of the climb looked very steep. Is it possible to establish a safe route in such terrain? Mara even declared that he was not going anywhere the next day. To my remark that even my mom conquered the mountain he couldn’t give up though : “When your mom made it, I must too.”

*Expect very steep climb before reaching Triglav*

Final via ferrata to Triglav

After the sunset show, we went to bed so we could get up at 5 in the morning to climb to the top of Triglav and catch the sunrise from the summit.

The morning wake up was difficult, but it definitely paid off. We avoided the crowds of cheering tourists climbing to the top. On the way to Triglav, we did not meet any single tourist who would slow us down on the narrow via ferrata, or would even threaten us. The ascent to the summit was ideally timed for the sunrise. It was a real beauty from the summit. We could not wish for better weather and we had the whole of Slovenia under us. It was great visibility, so we could even see the distant Grossglockner in Austria.

*The top of Triglav during spectacular sunrise*

The way down took us half an hour longer than the ascent. The tourists started to form similar queues as I experienced earlier on Grossglockner. This time we didn’t mind though. The sun was shining, it was not cold, and the views were still breathtaking. When we returned to Kredarica Hut, the weather was perfect. To celebrate the ascent, we fell asleep on sunny benches for an hour.

Never ending descent

After a well-deserved nap, we headed back to the valley. For the descent we chose the second route this time – Prag route. It was supposed to be less steep and therefore more gentle for the knees. However, it was very similar to the first route in my opinion. While descending I chose my favorite method – the quicker you go, the faster you will have it behind you, and I managed to run down the whole hill in 2h45 minutes. I waited for my colleague while having a refreshing beverage.

Half an hour passed, then another hour passed, and Mara was still on the way. I remembered my mom 15 years earlier as she returned in the darkness and could hardly walk. Will a similar fate await even Mara? After an hour and a half, he finally managed to come back, apparently tired as hell. What’s important, we’ve both made it.

Relax at romantic Bled

After a quick snack, we headed to the renowned Bled Lake to relax. We weren´t keen on waking up very early in the morning, but we did it in the end. The sunrise over Lake Bled with its picturesque isle and the church in the middle, sounded tempting. And it was worth it. A beautiful spectacle. I haven’t seen many more romantic places. I understand why Bled is a popular place for lovers. Around the lake we met more or less only couples in love holding each other´s hands. Pity that I was at Bled only with Mara and not my girlfriend that time.

My tips for climbing the mountain Triglav:

Stay over in the Kredarica Hut. There is no hurry to climb Triglav in just one day. You will avoid an afternoon storm which is very frequent during summer and you will be able to enjoy beautiful sunset from Kredarica.
Wake up very early for the summit day. You will avoid the crowds.
If you have an extra day, spend it around the lake Bled.

April 30, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest peak of Iceland Hvannadalshnúkur?

The land of fire and ice is hiding one of the most demanding ascents of the project the European Peaks. The mountain Hvannadalshnúkur is an inactive volcano covered by Europe’s largest glacier Vatnajökull. The summit is not only very physically demanding but also very unpredictable when it comes to weather. Strong winds and blizzards are common here even in summer. Here are all tips you need to know before your climb to Iceland’s highest mountain including my own personal experience.

Important information for climb of Hvannadalshnúkur

Short description of the ascent: Very demanding long hike on glacier, glacier experience necessary, difficult navigation
Essential equipment: Back country skis/snowhsoes/crampons, hiking poles
Best time to visit: April - June
Fees or restrictions: No but guide strongly recommended
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Svinafell
Starting point: Parking lot Sandfell (see the map below)
Height of the peak: 2,110m
Ski touring/hiking distance: 11.5 km (one way)
Time to ascend to Hvannadalshnúkur: 7 hours 30 minutes up, 4 hours down
Elevation climbed: 2066m 
Water availability on the mountain: No
Difficulty level: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Víking Rökkr **** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the best route to Hvannadalshnúkur

The climb has four parts. Up to about 1000 m above sea level there is a rocky section with a path to follow. Then you will enter the glacier on which you will climb to the altitude of about 1800 m above sea level. There will be waiting a large plateau. Do not walk the shortest possible route to the peak over the plateau. There is the largest risk of falling into cracks. Instead, follow the peak on a curve, do not go straight. At the end there is a steep final section to the peak (ca 300 elevation meters).

Map of the route to Hvannadalshnúkur

My story of climbing Hvannadalshnúkur

After winter ascents in Andorra and Norway I was facing even bigger winter challenge. The majestic mountain Hvannadalshnúkur is both beautiful and demanding and it became one of the highlights of the expedition. To reach the summit the majority of your climb will be on a glacier where you are in danger of falling into cracks and you have to get ready for hostile weather. Blizzards and strong winds are common here even during summer.

*Jakub and I under Hvannadalshnúkur. Will we manage to climb it?*

I had a big respect for this mountain so I wanted to book a mountain guide (which I strongly recommend to you too if you want to summit this amazing mountain). However, the circumstances changed. No guide was available on my summit day so I decided to climb the mountain only with my friend Jakub.

Proper preparation is the key

Because Jakub and I wanted to climb Hvannadalshnúkur at the beginning of the climbing season, early April, planning was the most important success factor. In Iceland there were still winter conditions, and climbing in bad weather would mean gambling with our lives. We planned to stay in Iceland the whole week with the hope that one of the seven days will be suitable for the climb.

Before we arrived in Iceland, we closely monitored the weather forecast. That was very changeable. It seemed that predicting Icelandic weather was like throwing a dice. Completely random in the long term. Therefore, I was looking for Icelandic climbers on Facebook to ask how to prepare our climb and where to watch the weather. I got answers from three climbers who had already climbed the highest mountain of Iceland. We got these recommendations:

“Check the weather forecast at this Icelandic website: en.vedur.is.
Be careful when climbing over the glacier. It is necessary to be tied on a rope and to be very careful. The glacier is safe in winter if you follow the recommended GPS route exactly.
GPS is important to not to get lost. Don’t forget an extra battery/ powerbank.
Register your climb at safetravel.is, so local authorities know about your venture.

Weather lottery

Based on the weather forecast we decided to climb Hvannadalshnúkur right after our arrival to Iceland. The forecast looked amazing. Sunny the whole day, just a strong wind in the morning. I contacted local mountain guides who perform regular ascents. However, I was told that the ascent was canceled due to bad weather. “Too windy,” they said. The climb was supposed to move to the next day, but we didn’t like that at all. It was supposed to blow less, but it was supposed to be cloudy with snowfall. There was no other summit day before our flight back to Stockholm so we decided to climb the mountain on our own.

In Reykjavik we rented climbing equipment and managed to get harnesses, crampons, a rope and hiking poles. According to the rental company and local climbers, this should be enough for us in the current conditions. According to them, the main risk – glacial cracks – is safely covered with snow from the whole winter during this time of the year.

First day in the winter wonderland

Then we rented a car and headed towards the starting point of the climb – Sandfell. The trip usually takes four hours. We left Reykjavik and took the Highway 1 (also called Ring Road) to the southwest. The 90 km / h reduction was annoying, but we soon understood why there is such speed limit. It started to blow like crazy, temperatures dropping below zero, and snow was blowing from the mountains. The visibility was suddenly only a few meters. Blizzard. We were glad we could drive at speed of 30 km / h.

The journey was longer than we expected. We arrived late at night to a village called Vík. Due to the high rocks there was a significantly weaker wind than elsewhere on the road, so we decided to stay there overnight. We hoped not to find ourselves lost in snow the following morning. We spent the night in the trunk of our rented Subaru Forester and it was surprisingly comfortable.

*Nearby Vík you can also find the famous plane wreck*

We woke up to see the sunrise on the Vík’s beach and the view promptly forced us to leave the car to see the beauty. The black sand beach together with cliffs around was perhaps the most beautiful beach I have ever seen. But the harsh Icelandic climate was showing us its strength. It was so windy that we took just a few pictures and headed back to our car.

Too windy on Hvannadalshnúkur

We decided to continue towards Hvannadalshnúkur. As we drove out of the village Vík, the wind doubled in strength. It was even stronger than the previous day while bringing even more snow. We realized what white darkness looks like. We couldn’t see further than two meters. At that moment we were very glad that we did not borrow a smaller car, which would certainly not handle this furious weather.

There was no rush. We continued very slowly but we still managed to reach the Europe’s largest glacier Vatnajökull pretty early in the morning. We saw Hvannadalshnúkur for the first time. Unfortunately, it was immediately clear why the guides canceled the climb. Even though the sky was clear, the wind was blowing so hard that it created snow clouds on the mountain. We realized that we wouldn’t see anything during our summit. At that moment we were sure: today we won’t climb anything.

*The first view over Hvannadalshnúkur and crazy wind on the road*

We drove to the village Hof, ate breakfast and thought about what to do next. Will we take some warming up hike and will we follow the climbing company tomorrow in cloudy and snowy weather? During the breakfast however, the wind miraculously calmed down, not only in the lowlands, but also in the mountains. It was nine o’clock in the morning, which is still relatively late to climb Hvannadalshnúkur, but the sun is already quite high at the beginning of April and sets as late as at half past eight in the evening. ‘What if we try to climb? We have more or less 12 hours until it gets dark. We’ll return if it feels dangerous.”

Perfect weather conditions

After a brief discussion, we decided to go for it. We packed food, water, tea, all necessary climbing equipment and power banks in case our phones run out of battery and of course headlights. We registered us on safetravel.is in case we need help and started our ascent. In a few minutes I got a message from safetravel.is : “Do you have complete glacier equipment? Do you have experience with alpine and glacier tourism? During this time of year the climb is very challenging.”

We were very pleased that the local authorities were so interested in tourists and wanted to ensure our safety in the mountains. We reported an expected return time at 23 o’clock. If we don’t report two hours after, the organization would send a search. We left the parking lot Sandfell at 11 am. I guess it was the latest leaving time to climb Hvannadalshnúkur of all previous April climbers.

*The first part of the climb was easy. It led on rocks*

The wind completely left the mountains so we could climb only in T-shirts. We quickly ran up the first 1000 altitude meters across stony and snowy terrain. In this part it was easy to find the way. After about two hours we reached the glacier. It looked clean and without cracks. We were relieved. Time to put crampons on, tie ourselves to the rope and climb up.

Climbing on the glacier

We climbed the glacier more slowly. I often checked the terrain in front of us to make sure there are no cracks. I also checked the GPS regularly to see if we were going in the correct direction. We climbed slowly but steadily up. We expected to reach the plateau several times but there were several endless horizons ahead.

We came across one crack. Luckily it was narrow and well visible so we easily overcame it. It was interesting to look for cracks. It reminded me of skating on thin ice, which I do with a local Stockholm skating club at the beginning of the skating season in autumn. The thickness of the ice often changes, so every skater must have a stick with a sharp end to examine the thickness of the ice. Here it was similar. I tested regularly to see if there was a crack below blown snow.

At around 6 pm we finally reached the plateau below the summit. “The summit is near now” I encouraged my friend Jakub but I saw that it would be still quite a hike to the top. We followed the Icelandic climber’s instruction and didn’t follow the shortest route to the summit. Instead, go along the contour line around. You will avoid a great risk.

Sunset on top of Hvannadalshnúkur

*The sun was already setting when we were getting close*

We continued even more cautiously than before. I checked the surface in front of us before every step. We encountered two more cracks. Both weren’t well visible. After another hour we got to the final climb. The sun was slowly setting which we expected. We knew we would be going down in the dark. The last climb was steep, but could be handled without an ice axe. We passed the beautiful snow-covered rocks and reached the summit. We did it!

The wind was blowing on top so it quickly became really cold but the gorgeous view of the setting sun over the cloud-covered valley and ocean behind warmed us up. Indescribable scenery.

We knew we were only half way. The descent would still be very difficult so we spent only a few minutes on the top and headed back. We knew it would be dark in about an hour and a half, so we tried to get back to the plateau as quickly as possible so that we would pass as much of the glacier as possible before it got dark. Thanks to the perfect weather conditions our traces remained visible. We didn’t have to look for a new path, so we could go back much faster. Indeed, the Icelandic forecast was correct.

Descend in the shine of northern lights

We managed to pass the plateau before it got dark. Then we had to slow down but it was still easy to follow our steps with our headlights. After two and a half hours we came back from the glacier to the rocks. The toughest and most dangerous part was behind us.

We expected the rest of the hike to be easy but we ended up in a crisis. Clouds occurred and the navigation got much more complicated. We couldn’t even see our traces anymore and we got lost several times. Our legs were in pain and we were tired so we decided for a break.

Icelandic dried fish with bread and a bit of tea gave us new energy so we could continue. We walked down in darkness and a bad mood when the sky suddenly cleared up and we saw northern lights. The aurora was so strong that it illuminated the path we wanted to follow. Suddenly we could easily see where to go. Thanks to the aurora we managed to get back safely to the car. After our arrival we texted safetravel.is that we are safe and went to sleep. We fell asleep within a minute.

One week road trip around Iceland

In the morning we were woken up by a group of tourists led with a mountain guide at six o’clock in the morning. It was cloudy and snowy. It was certain that even if the climbers managed to climb Hvannadalshnúkur, they would not see anything. On the other hand, I must admit that we took a risk. If one of us fell into a glacial crack, we would have a big problem. We didn’t have any equipment to rescue each other from a glacier crack. Climbing Hvannadalshnúkur with only two people and without glacier equipment is definitely not an exemplary approach. Based on my experience I definitely recommend to climb the mountain only with an experienced local mountain guide.

*Well deserved relax after the summit day*

Anyway the goal of our Icelandic expedition was managed on the first day of our visit and we still had six days on Iceland. Time to explore the island. What was the first stop? Hot springs and relaxation.

My tips for climbing the mountain Hvannadalshnúkur:

I highly recommend hiring a mountain guide or joining a guided tour. This is a very demanding ascent even for experienced climbers due to the extreme weather conditions.
It is necessary to monitor the weather. Climbing Hvannadalshnúkur is only possible in perfect weather conditions.
GPS navigation is necessary.
Complete glacier equipment is recommended.

October 12, 2020 • 0 Comment

European Peaks – My book is published!

My dreams came true! In 2019 I completed my expedition European Peaks and I can happily say now that my book about the unforgettable journey has been published! It is now available in bookstores all over the Czech Republic. UPDATE: The first edition of the book has been sold out and you can find the updated and extended edition in the stores.

It isn’t an easy job to write a book. It took a similarly long time as the expedition itself but I am very proud of the outcome. Take a look at the cover.

What can you find in the book?

My book is kind of a hybrid. It serves both as a guide and also tells my own stories and experiences from the mountains. At the beginning of each chapter you can find practical information about the highest peak of every European country including a map and the chapters continue with my personal stories and of course my photographs.

The overall storyline tells that I start as a relative beginner climber and I learn on the way. The stories are accompanied by interviews with world famous climbers (Renata Chlumská – the first Swedish women to reach Seven Summits, Adam Ondra – professional rock climber, Radek Jaroš – climber who summited all the 8000m mountains) who will give the readers tips how to safely climb mountains.

Last and not least, you will find a lot of fun facts from every European country, not only mountains. Europe is so manifold. Did you know for instance that Sweden’s highest point changed last year because the previous highest one melted?

If you can read Czech, take a look at the book’s website for more information. For others, I have a short movie

Check out summary of the expedition in this short film

My book in other languages

My goal for 2023 is to publish my book in English and other languages. I prepared the cover of the English version as well as an example chapter. You can find them both of them below.

Here you can download the example chapter KebnekaiseDownload

Details of the book

Genre: Travel monograph
Number of pages: 304
Book dimensions: 210 × 247 mm
Release Date: May 28, 2020
Binding: Bound with laminated cover

Pictures from the book release

Czech tradition: Baptism of the book. From left actor Jan Révai, writer Ladislav Zibura, me and moderator Michal Kurtiš

Presentation of the book and discussion about travelling

May 23, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 44: Russia – Elbrus

Many people consider Mont Blanc to be Europe’s highest mountain. In fact, it is Russian Elbrus in the Caucasus Mountains. Elbrus is a volcano with two peaks. The western one measures 5642 meters and is 21 meters higher than its eastern brother. Compared to Mont Blanc or Dufourspitze, it is technically simple to climb Elbrus but it is demanding due to meteorological conditions and high altitude.

Date of summit: 8th June 2019 8:45 
Traveling mode: Alpinism
Height of the peak: 5.642m
Alpinism distance: 4.93 km (Day 1) 
Alpinism distance: 3.16 km (Day 2) 
Alpinism distance: 6.16 km (Day 3)  
Alpinism time from village Azau to Station Mir: 2 hours 26 minutes 
Alpinism time from station Mir to Maria shelter: 1 hours 58 minute 
Ski touring time from Maria shelter to Elbrus: 6 hours 4 minutes 
Elevation climbed: 1063m (Day 1)
Elevation climbed: 599m (Day 2) 
Elevation climbed: 1527m (Day 3) 
Map of my journey from village Azau to Station Mir: Movescount
Map of my journey from station Mir to Maria shelter : Movescount 
Map of my journey from Maria shelter to Elbrus: Movescount 
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Valaisanne Baltika 7 Eksportnoe ** (6 stars maximum)

Is Elbrus in Europe? By definition, the border between Europe and Asia is formed by the Caucasus watershed. That places Elbrus in Europe because it lies on the northern side of the watershed in Russia, the European part of the Caucasus. According to this definition there is no doubt about the highest point of our continent.

I flew to Russia with my father and a friend from Sweden Alča. We met at Istanbul airport and arrived together to Mineralnye Vody airport. There we didn’t stay long. We took a taxi (very cheap – 4500 RUR for 180km) to Terskol, a mountain village and main center in the Caucasus mountains.

When we arrived we couldn’t find our pre-booked accommodation in for a while. Google Maps were showing a wrong spot. I wasn’t surprised because I had similar experience also in other Eastern European countries. It would be interesting to know why Google maps often show inaccurate information from these coutnries. However, helpful locals showed us the way so we easily found our cosy guest house. We were tired after long journey so we fell asleep at eight o’clock, accompanied by lightning and rain.

Acclimatization is key to success

For the next day we planned an acclimation climb to Chezem mountain (3461 m). We took a lift in Terskol to 3095m and took a nice hike to the peak. Chezem seemed to be very near. But it wasn’t. Even at this altitude there is nothing free. It took us about an hour and a half to reach it. All in all, it was a very nice acclimatization walk. We warmed up our muscles and we were rewarded with a magnificent view of both “Elbrus’ breasts”.

We decided to stay on the top as long as possible to acclimatize as much as possible. In the end we spent over two hours sunbathing and watching the surrounding snow-capped peaks. We were happy to climb Elbrus. All the other mountains in the area were much sharper, which would mean a technically more demanding climb.

Next day we were ready. Time to move towards Elbrus. We ordered a taxi that took us to village Azau, the starting point to Europe’s highest mountain. There you have three options how to get up. Either you can take the old cable car, the new cable car, or you can climb your own. The village of Azau is only 2350 meters above sea level, which means that you have to overcome the altitude of 3350 meters to the top of Elbrus. Given that the path led along the cableway all the time we decided to use the invention of today’s civilization.

*A “beautiful” painting but useful map for the upcoming climb at the old cable car entrance*

Sleeping in a container

We took the new cable car and after two changes we reached the height of 3800 m above sea level. The only climbers we saw from the cableway were soldiers on duty. The container village of Garabashi lies just next to the end of the highest lift. We started searching for accommodation. It didn’t take us long time. We found a free container with eight beds in a few minutes. We were lucky. For 800 rubles a night we got the whole container just for ourselves. Traveling before the high season showed its advantages.

*This will be our home for the following days*

The accommodation was very modest. We actually didn’t expect anything in the container except for the beds. But we were surprised by electricity and heating in the end. It looks like we won’t freeze. It was also great that there was also a café at the top of the lift so we could order both food and drinks and save our food supplies.

We wanted to take it easy the first day to get used to the altitude but we were feeling good and were a bit bored so we took a walk to Maria Shelter – the last container village at an altitude of 4100 m. It took us an hour to get there. A beautiful suny day was spoiled only by passing snowcats which were taking Russian tourists to a height of 5000 meters.

We decided to relax at Maria Shelter for a while but we couldn’t stay long. A very strong wind arrived. It was so cold that we decided to return. How can it blow on the top when it is so windy here? We returned to our container just before arrival of the next afternoon storm.

The next day we planned to acclimatize by ascending to Pastukhov Rocks at the altitude of 4700 meters. We were feeling well again. However, we entered a cloud at an altitude of 4400 meters, temperatures suddenly dropped and we were freezing. Despite that we managed to get to 4700 meters but couldn’t get higher. The wind was too strong. On the way down another storm arrived and it started to hail. We were returning while covering our faces from painful hail.

The weather wasn’t looking good even for the following days. The wind was supposed to grow even stronger and clouds with snow settled on the top. The only thing we could do was playing cards in our container and walking up and down the same route to acclimatize. The weather forecast showed that the next weather gap might come in three days. Then we can hopefully climb Elbrus.

From Azau to Elbrus

My father and friend Alča planned to acclimatize during the following days. I felt acclimatized enough (my previous climb to Dufourspitze definitely helped) and was bored by going up and down the same path all the time so I was looking for an alternative program for the next two days. In the end I decided to climb the part from village Azau to Garabaši where I “cheated” by going up with the cable car at the beginning. At the altitude below 4000 meters bad weather shouldn’t matter. In the worst case I will get wet. I won’t melt. I’m not made of sugar.

As I planned I also did. I went down with the first cable car. When I reached the village Azau I bought some extra food supplies since our stay on Elbrus will be longer and started to climb up the ski slope. I enjoyed my hike. There were very nice views. I was even lucky with weather. The rain and fog showed up as late as when I reached the second last cable car station – Mir at 3500m. It actually didn’t rain. It looked like an apocalypse. The thunderstorm brought all rain hail and snow and I realized I am partly made of sugar.

Luckily I found there one open café where I found a shelter. I wanted to wait for better weather but it was still falling cats and dogs in an hour. What will I do? The café was closing and I was ready to continue climbing up in the insane weather but I was saved outside by a snowcat. It was going up with supplies. I was a little ashamed that I have to “cheat” again but the weather was really bad.

The next morning we woke up in a sunny day but the wind was still too strong for climbing Elbrus. That’s why I decided to complete my last day’s interrupted climb. I returned to Mir where the snowcat saved me last night and continued climbing up to Garabaši. This time there were no obstacles.

*Hiking in good weather on Elbrus is easy*

When I got back to our container we checked again weather forecast and it looked like the following day should be finally great weather for the summit. We decided to move to the highest container village – Maria Shelter and attempt climbing Elbrus the following day.

Going up around noon with heavy backpack was nothing pleasant. The sky was clear and the sun was burning. Exactly how I imagine staying in the desert – with the only difference, here you have to carry all the winter gear. The climb was not long, but it exhausted me anyway. I was glad I didn’t have to do anything for the rest of the day. Just relax and finally get ready for the climb to Elbrus.

The forecast really looked great. There should be a big storm from afternoon to midnight but then windless and cloudless two days. It was supposed to be cold (around -15 ° C) but this shouldn’t be a problem with no wind. It sounded like ideal conditions for ascent.

We prepared everything we needed and went to bed at eight in the evening to get some rest before the alarm clock would ring at midnight. We were falling asleep during the loudest storm during our whole stay in Russia. That was forecast. It will surely leave before midnight.

Blizzard

We woke up at midnight but the thunderstorm was still there. It was still very strong so we decided to move the alarm clock by an hour. We woke up later at 1 a.m. but the storm hasn’t changed. Still snowing and thundering. this time we decided to get up. The storm will disappear before we take breakfast.

We took a tea and outmeal with dried fruits. We ate everything quickly and prepared to leave. It was positive that the thunder and lightning disappeared. On the other hand it was still snowing heavily and the wind seemed to be even stronger. Since the forecast was predicting a nice sunny day We decided to try it anyway with hope that the storm would leave soon.

We started to climb up but it was difficult. There was about thirty centimeters of new snow. Although two groups set out for their climbs before us we had no chance of finding their tracks. Too heavy snowfall.

We were very slow (actually twice slower than during our acclimatization ascends) and the weather was still not getting better. We continued up in the dark and blizzard. Sudenly we heard a snowcat. Russian climbers decided to simplify their climb and go by the snowcat up to 5000 meters above sea level. However, the huge amount of new snow was tough even for the snowcat. It passed us but turned around soon. The driver saw that it would be impossible to climb Elbrus that day and returned back to the barel village. When we saw the snowcat failure we decided to give up as well and returned to bed.

Next day we woke up in the most beautiful weather. the fresh snow created beautiful scenery but we were depressed because of our fail. Last night mother nature showed us its power. Luckily, we had one more opportunity the following day, on the last day of our Russian visa. The weather was supposed to be prefect and even with no storm the night before. Now or never!

Time to climb Elbrus

Next day we woke up into a clear night with no wind. These were the conditions we have been waiting and hoping for. We took a quick breakfast and started to climb up. Everything went incomparably better than the previous night. This time we started at pace of 350 elevation meters per hour. We passed other groups which set out to the summit earlier, and enjoyed the peace of a beautiful mountain night. The only thing that disturbed the climb was again the snowmobiles, which were taking up lazy tourists as close as possible to the top.

*Today or never. View from the elevation of ca 5000m*

The higher we were the colder it got. We had to put on our down jackets and took some hot tea. It warmed us up except our frozen feet. We have to continue climbing up and wait for the sun to rise. Then it will be warm.

At 5000 meters the sun finally rose above the horizon and started to warm our frozen bodies. There the road for snowcats ended too. Now it’s going to be beautiful. With the sun and without hum of annoying snowmobiles. Our speed dropped with every hundred meters of altitude. From 5000 meters we took a short break to properly oxygenate the body after each 20 steps. With this pace we were still one of the fastest groups. Especially larger groups with Russian mountain guides were moving at a really snail pace. I think I would freeze. I was glad to have read the warnings on various blogs beforehand: We don’t recommend ordering local guides.

At the elevation of 5100 meters we had to take a longer break. Alča got a headache due to altitude. She took one ibuprofen, took a lot of water and we conitnued.

At the altitude of 5300 meters we finally got to the valley between the Eastern and Western Peak. There was no wind and pleasantly warm sun and the climbers took advantage of it. They were taking the last break and snack before the final ascent. We couldn’t resist and also took a short break

The final climb and last 300 elevation meters were the steepest. There was even a fixed rope that most climbers used to secure themselves. From the last break we were climbing up really slowly – 10 steps − pause − 10 steps − pause. After an hour we finally reached the horizon and saw the summit. Now it will be easy. The last passage is almost without elevation.

*We made it. This is the view from the top*

The weather was still great so we had very nice views. The last part was a nice alpine walk. We reached the top among the first climbers, though just after a large group of back country skiers so we had to queue for our summit selfie. But we didn’t care. It was a beautiful day so we enjoyed the views. On one side we could see the vast Russian lowland and on the other sharp Georgian peaks. I wouldn’t mind if time stopped for a while. This moment was amazing. After nine troubling days we finally reached th top of Elbrus. It was the last day of validity of our visas. We wouldn’t get any other opportunity during this visit.

Now there is another challenge. Our flight from Mineralny Vody is leaving in 14 hours. Fortunately, it was very easy to descend in this beautiful weather. I managed to descend to the Maria Shelter just in 1 hour and 30 minutes. Then we just took three lifts and taxi and we could still make a toast with Russian vodka at the airport. Mission completed!

My tips for climbing the mountain Elbrus:

The way to the top of Elbrus from the south is not technically demanding. One can even climb to the top without ropes. Th path is perfectly marked but it is very important not to leave the trail. If you don’t follow the route you can easily end up in a crevasse.
This is only valid in good weather. In poor visibility, strong wind or snow one can easily get lost as we could see the previous day.
Do not underestimate acclimatization!
Although you can find information on the internet that you don’t need your own sleeping bag to stay in the container villages I highly recommend to bring it. You do not want to use old blankets used by numerous climbers before you.
Although some barels offer kitchenettes, do not rely on them and bring your own self cooking equipment
Avoid large groups with Russian mountain guides. Their clients are often badly acclimatized.

May 21, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 42: Switzerland – Dufourspitze / Monte Rosa

The most challenging mountain of the entire expedition Crown of Europe is the Swiss Dufourspitze. Climbing Dufourspitze, named after the Swiss founder of the Red Cross, requires even more physical and mental preparation than Mont Blanc. It requires all – proper acclimatization and experience in both rock and glacier climbing. Those who can cope with all these pitfalls will be rewarded with unforgettable views.

Date of summit: 23rd May 2019 11:35 
Traveling mode: Ski touring
Height of the peak: 4634m
Ski touring distance: 13.77 km (Day 1) 
Ski touring distance: 8.37 km (Day 2) 
Ski touring distance: 17.25 km (Day 3)  
Ski touring time from Klein Matterhorn to Monte Rosa Hut: 5 hours 27 minutes 
Ski touring time from Monte Rosa Hut to Dufourspitze: 8 hours 1 minute 
Ski touring time from Dufourspitze to Zermatt: 5 hours 59 minutes 
Elevation climbed: 499m (Day 1)
Elevation climbed: 1778m (Day 2) 
Elevation climbed: 200m (Day 3) 
Map of my hiking journey from Klein Matterhorn to Monte Rosa Hut: Movescount
Map of my ski touring journey from Monte Rosa Hut to Dufourspitze: Movescount 
Map of my  ski touring journey from Monte Rosa Hut to Zermatt: Movescount 
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Valaisanne Lager Hell *** (6 stars maximum)

After four weeks on the road through the East European and Balkan countries, I took a few days break in my second home in the Czech Republic. I was waiting for proper weather for the most challenging summit in Switzerland. Since I had a big respect to this mountain I booked a mountain guide this time. I was happy I also found one more climbing partner on Facebook. The skiing and rafting instructor Petra decided to join us.

Since there was still a lot of snow in the Alps and it had been snowing lately, we decided to climb Dufourspitze on backcountry skies. We were waiting for a weather gap for a long time. We had to be very flexible. It took one week before the perfect weather gap showed up. It was supposed to be sunny and windless for 48 hours. Time to go.

The move to Switzerland took us a very long time but we had at least some time to get to know each other. It was clear that I would be the least experienced back country skier. The mountain guide had been guiding people on back country skies for thirty years and Petra is a skiing instructor who spends every free time on back country skies. Hopefully, my quadruple back country experience will be enough to handle their pace.

Driving from Czech Republic to Switzerland was tiring. We arrived late at night, slept shortly and arrived early in the morning to the village of Täsch which is the last place you can reach by car on the way to Zermatt. There we took a taxi to one of the most famous villages in the Alps.

Time to acclimatize

We didn’t stay long in Zermatt. We planned to acclimatize and move to the Monte Rosa hut that day, so we quickly headed for the cable car station and bought a ticket for the Klein Matterhorn. It is the highest cable way station in Europe with its height of 3883 m above the sea level. A perfect starting point for an acclimatization walk.

I was short of breath. Overcoming more than 2,000 elevation meters in a few minutes isn’t the easiest task for people’s lungs. I was getting used to the thin air while looking at skiers who were coming back to Zermatt on still perfect and almost empty slopes. Shouldn’t we rather go skiing?

In a few minutes my lungs got a bit used to the thin air, so I was ready to start our acclimatization skiing day. The plan was to traverse around the mountains Breithorn and Roccia Nera and then descend via the Schwärzegletscher glacier to the Monte Rosa hut where we will sleep before the subsequent summit day.

My first challenging off-piste skiing

We moved slowly to get used to the thin air. Fortunately, the journey was not long. It took us two hours until we reached the point from where we wil ski down. When I saw where we were going to go down, I thought to myself how much percent chance I had to survive this. Will an avalanche or a fall in a crevasse kill me? But we were with a mountain guide so I trusted his route selection.

The skiing was amazing. Until we reached the elevation of 3300 m above sea level there was perfect powder snow. Then, the downhill was much more difficult since there was a layer of ice on the snow. I had to use the “plow position” most of the time. Nevertheless, we managed to descend the slope, and even managed to enjoy views of the Matterhorn and other sharp peaks of the Swiss Alps.

When we were almost down the glacier below theMonte Rosa Hut, Petra and our mountain guide noticed a shortcut. It looked great. If we manage to pass it we can skip climbing at least 200 elevation meters. At first I was glad. I don’t like unnecessary climbs. After a few meters, however, I saw what we have to descend: a rocky field covered with heavy wet snow. Is this a good idea?

End of the Dufourspitze climb?

Our mountain guide managed to reach the glacier without problems. I was following but then I fell for the first, second, third time. Fortunately, these were all controlled falls so I just shrugged it off and kept on skiing. I thought I could handle the downhill in the wet snow and continued down when one of my legs suddenly fell one meter deep in the snow. My leg got stuck in the snow and my face just fell straight down.

*Don’t shovel like this. It doesn’t work. It’s better not to be lazy and assemble it first*

I must have looked ridiculous and worse, I couldn’t get out of the position. My leg was stuck and I didn’t feel it. Does that mean that I lost it or that nothing happened to me? When Petra came to help me, it turned out that my leg is alive. She helped me to dig out of the snow and I was ready to continue descending.

But then I realized I am missing one pole. Where is it? Petra and I started shoveling. We dug and dug but couldn’t find it. What now? Finally our mountain guide returned. I was hoping he would help us finding it but the leader said instead: “If you don’t remember at least roughly where it might have ended, it’s like looking for a needle in a haystack. You have no chance.” Of course, I had no idea so I sadly gave up on my pole. Hopefully I would find some solution to replace it.

We still had to climb a few elevation meters until the Monte Rosa Hut. The glacier towards the hut was already influenced by afternoon sun so it was difficult to climb up. Even more for me, because I had just one pole.

Time to Improvise

We arrived to the Monte Rosa Hut just before sunset. I was super tired. Well, it makes sense. What would you expect after acclimatization at 3800 meters, unsuccessful shoveling of roughly a wagon of snow and ascent of ca 500 altitude meters. I ate one Adventure Menu quickly and wanted to go to bed early but before going to bed I had to solve my pole problem. The shops in the Monte Rosa Hut are closed during off season so I had to find an alternative. I walked around the hut when I suddenly saw my salvation: a broom! It was was the perfect size. The same size like my remaining stick. Problem solved!

After consulting with the only other group trying to ascend Dufourspitze the following day we decided to leave at 2:30 a.m. in the morning. Time to sleep.

But I couldn’t sleep. The risk of shared dormitories was once again manifested. Two of the six people snored loudly and my earplugs didn’t help. I rolled over and tried to fall asleep but in vain. After four hours of rolling, the alarm clock rang and everyone started preparing their breakfast. I gave up and went to eat too.

Summit day to Dufourspitze

Chicken tikka masala may sound like a weird breakfast at two in the morning but it tasted good and gave me the energy I needed. Then we quickly packed up our equipment and got ready for the summit. Dufourspitze is waiting.

It was surprisingly warm at the hut but that was about to change soon. First we climbed relatively quickly and my broom stick worked well, so I didn’t cause much delay. The problems occurred from about 3500 m above sea level. I wasn’t as well acclimatized as my friends but there was nothing to be done about it. We had to climb together. I just had to follow my pace and hoped my friends wouldn’t freeze.

The closer to sunrise was the colder it was. Unfortunately, the forecast was correct, −17 ° C was absolutely right. For the first time in my life I put on my expedition feather jacket on the actual climb (mostly I use it only during breaks or on top of mountains). Again, I hoped my friends wouldn’t freeze.

It was very cold but we had incredible views. I will never forget watching the first red sun rays covering Matterhorn and the surrounding mountains. Unfortunately, the sunshine didn’t reach us as the sun was behind the Monte Rosa massif.

Nothing for people having fear of heights

After five freezing hours we finally reached the Sattel ridge, where the bright sun warmed us up. Suddenly I felt pleasantly warm, just a bit scared of what is ahead. From now on we will have to climb a narrow and steep ridge. It was time to take off the skis, put on the crampons, tie in on the rope and continue on the steep ridge.

It was going well on the snow. The problem occurred when we had to start climbing the rocks. At that point I was really happy to have an experienced mountain guide with us. I would have turned around without him. I felt secured being on the rope.

I regretted not leaving my huge feather jacket and my large backpack with my skis. I felt very awkward during the climb but I was at least not cold. The ridge was very long and there were a few misleading horizons ahead. I thought several times that we must be on the top but there has always been a new one. The climb on the ridge took us over two hours. It was very challenging. Fortunately, we were lucky with the weather. The sun was warm and there was almost no wind. We finally reached the top at 11 am and enjoyed the well-deserved rest.

Deserved views from Dufourspitze

*The views from the top are simply amazing*

Even though the views were amazing we didn’t stay on the top for a long time. We took a snack, took the necessary photographs, and decided to return. We still had a long way to go. The ridge was very difficult even during the descend. We returned to our skies as late as at 2 p.m. Then everything went much faster. We put our skis on and enjoyed the deserved descent back to the Monte Rosa Hut. In half an hour we managed to ski down 1,500 meters of altitude.

We wanted to take just a short meal and continue to Zermatt but the weather was against us. The sun was burning now. Compared to the morning −17 degrees, it had warmed by 40 degrees. The thermometer was showing 25°C, which meant that going downhill on the glacier to Zermatt would be dangerous. None of us wanted to fall into a crevasse so we stayed one more night at the Monte Rosa Hut.

We slept twelve hours. We recharged our batteries and finally skied down back back to civilization. The glacier was still frozen in the morning so we could ski down for the entire 10 kilometers. When we passed the glacier we still had to hike an additional 8 kilometer along the glacier river. It was also tough in ski boots and with skies on the back but we managed to get into Zermatt safely. In Zermatt we were welcome by draft beer and tasty garlic soup in restaurant Furi. We made it!

My tips for climbing the mountain Dufourspitze:

Climbing Dufourspitze is even more challenging than Mont Blanc. Experience with belaying not only on the glacier, but also on the rock is a necessity.
Acclimatization before the climb is necessary too.
Choose a mountain guide you trust.
Don’t bring a large jacket and backpack on the final Sattel ridge. It feels very clumsy.

May 18, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 41: Bosnia and Herzegovina – Maglić

Maglić, sometimes also called Bosanski Maglić, is the most beautiful mountain of the highest points of all Balkan states. It looks like a limestone pyramid with steep 700 meter high rock walls. If you manage to climb a steep via ferrata you will find a cylindrical column with a flag of the Republic of Srpska (one of the two federations of Bosnia and Herzegovina) and spectacular views on the top.

Date of summit: 8th May 2019 11:30 
Traveling mode: Winter Hiking
Height of the peak: 2386m
Hiking distance: 3.54 km 
Time to ascend to Maglić: 3 hours 3 minute 
Elevation climbed: 754m
Map of my winter hike journey to Maglić: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Nektar Pivo ** (6 stars maximum)

After our bear story in Montenegro, my girlfriend and I continued to the last Balkan country on my expedition. Arriving to Bosnia and Hercegovina was an interesting driving experience. The quality of roads went sharply down after crossing the borders of Montenegro. On the other hand, the roads could boast of lots of cattle. Until we reached the village of Tjentiště lying at the foot of Maglić, we met the whole farm including cows, sheep, pigs and goats.

The journey wasn’t only interesting from an animal perspective. We had also amazing views over landscapes. I personally most liked the views of the Durmitor Mountains which were covered in fresh snow and the drive through the Sutjeska National Park through a very interesting deep canyon.

When we arrived to Tjentiště, we found a surprisingly nice and modern campsite with cozy cottages, so we could sleep well before climbing the highest mountain in Maglić.

The way to the top looked simple as described on the Internet. We will go from Tjentiště by car to the starting point of the hike and the actual climb will be only two kilometers long with less than 700 meters of elevation. The articles online were mentioning that the ascent is steep and accompanied by a ferrata but nothing extra demanding so we were looking forward to it.

Still a lot of snow

We woke up early to start our hike during sunrise. The weather was perfect and the Windy app was saying there is no snow on Maglić. Nothing should stop us from making a successful ascent. We took the gravel road to the beginning of the climb. It was surprisingly well passable but there was snow one kilometer before our destination. The snow didn’t let us through. It looks like the apps were wrong: we will have to encounter winter obstacles even on Maglić. We had to stop our car, park it and extend our climb by a kilometer. We packed our backpacks including crampons and left towards Maglić.

One of the most beautiful Balkan mountains

We came to the starting point after fifteen minutes and there we had an amazing view over Maglić. We couldn’t wait to climb it. After we took a few pictures we headed up. The climb was very steep right from the start. The opening short passage in the forest soon changed into ascent on rocks and small stones. After forty minutes we reached a large snow field. The Windy app was wrong this time.

Since the sun didn’t reach us from behind Maglić the snow was frozen. We had to put on crampons. The slope was becoming steeper and steeper. Slipping down would mean going down several hundred meters on our butts. I was sad we didn’t have ice axes with us.

After climbing about 400 meters of altitude on the snow field, the snow suddenly ended and it seemed that the rest of the way was just climbing via via ferrata. We left there our crampons to have lighter backpacks and headed up. It was obvious that we were the first ones to try to climb this year. There were a lot of fallen stones on the trail and the via ferrata was often still frozen to the rock, so we couldn’t use it. Some of the rocks which looked like solid handles were breaking in our hands after winter erosion. The climb wasn’t the safest thing I have done. We had to be extra careful with every elevation meter. Looking down I thought we wouldn’t survive a fall.

Via ferrata in winter without proper equipment is a hazard

I didn’t quite understand how all the articles about Maglić were claiming it is an “easy scrambling”. The climb looked pretty dangerous to me in these conditions. Fortunately, Joanne was brave and accustomed to the heights from climbing centers, so she didn’t protest and continued climbing up with me.

We managed to get just 40 elevation meters from the summit. It was so close but suddenly a new snow passage appeared. We didn’t see it from below. Shit. We left our crampons behind. Neither me nor Joanne liked the last steep meters in snow. We discussed what to do. Joanne was too scared to continue. I was going to try to reach the peak without crampons, by digging steps in the snow. If that doesn’t work we would just turn around. If it did work, I would be back soon. The peak is near. Joanne would wait for me.

I was lucky. The snow had an ideal consistency. It was still hard so I could make steps by kicking in it. I could continue up well while holding the surrounding rocks to secure myself. I managed to climb 35 altitude meters and I already saw the peak. It was so close but I saw that I cannot continue. There was no snow in front of me but ice. I couldn’t hold anything. Climbing the last five meters would be suicide without crampons and ice axe. I had to give up.

Feeling stupid on the top

*The last part was a bit crazy but luckily manageable*

I was sadly coming back to Joanne when I noticed one more potential way to get to the top. There was a narrow path between two rocks. It looked steep but it should be possible without crampons. I tried this way and it worked. A few steps up I got over the rocks, overcome the final overhang and stood on the summit. I did it!

Even though I manage it didn’t feel correct. I was feeling ashamed. Joanne is waiting for me. I thought I can climb up quickly but the ascent to the summit and return looked like it would eventually take an hour and a half.

*View from the top was amazing but I couldn’t enjoy it for long time*

I just took essential pictures on the top and wanted to descend back to Joanne when I saw four other tourists suddenly heading toward the summit from the other side of the ridge. It was an Austrian family with two kids who went to the summit in shorts and without crampons. “Where did you come from?” I couldn’t believe my eyes. “We reached the peak from Montenegro. The journey was a few kilometers longer than yours but it wasn’t steep and with almost no snow. It took us three hours to get here.”

*Austrian family reaching* Maglić *from Montenegro*

I was feeling hopeless. Why the hell couldn’t I find any article about this alternative route on the Internet? And why did nobody in our camp recommend this route for us? We spoke about getting to Maglić the whole evening last night. We had unnecessarily followed a risky path while we could have had a pleasant day hike.

I was scared to descend back to Joanne but I didn’t have any other option. Fortunately, my black scenario that going down would be worse than going up didn’t come true. I descended calmly and slowly without problem. Then we descended back to the car together.

The descent was very long. It took us 3 hours and 30 minutes to reach the summit. We went down the same way. In winter, I would never chose this route again without proper climbing equipment including crampons, harness, rope and ice ax.

*Safely under* Maglić *after tough summit and descent. This was a bit crazy*

My tips for climbing the mountain Maglić:

I recommend a 4×4 car to get to the starting point. The road can be difficult to pass, especially after rain.
If you want to skip steep via ferrata, choose an alternative route to Maglić across Montenegro. It is much safer.
Do not walk off the marked trails. There can be still mines from the Balkan wars in the ground.
Bring jingle bells and pepper spray against bears. We saw one bear from our car.

May 17, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 40: Montenegro – Zla Kolata

Montenegro’s highest mountain lies on the border, like the highest points of other Balkan states. Zla Kolata is also the 16th highest peak in Albania. The peak lies in the national park Prokletije known for sharp limestone rocks and the mountain of Zla Kolata, also known as Maja Kolata or Kolac, isn’t an exception. This mountain has the shape of a massive rock tooth. Was it difficult to climb?

Date of summit: 8th May 2019 17:10 
Traveling mode: Winter Hiking
Height of the peak: 2535m
Hiking distance: 10.09 km 
Time to ascend to Zla Kolata: 5 hours 7 minute 
Elevation climbed: 1553m 
Map of my winter hike journey to Zla Kolata: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Nikšićko Pivo ** (6 stars maximum)

After climbing Rudoka e Madhe in Kosovo, we didn’t have much time to chill. The weather forecast was favorable only for one more day so we drove directly to Montenegro. We slept in a motel on the way and arrived to the starting point of the hike – village Vusanje in the morning.

We were looking for accommodation and we found the cozy guesthouse Kollata. The landlady was just milking a cow. “Excuse me, do you please have a free bed?” We saw in her face that she was happy that some guests arrived. She told us that she had her last visitors one week ago, who were also trying to climb Zla Kolata. They were Czechs but they didn’t manage to climb it due to bad weather. She mentioned by the way that these guests saw bear’s footprints along the way.

Long day ahead

From what we had read, the journey to the summit and back should take about 10 hours, so we asked the landlady to prepare dinner for us at eight o’clock when we expected to be back.

*The starting point of the hike – village Vusanje*

The weather couldn’t be better this day. The sun was shining and there was no wind. It was so warm that we could have started our hike in shorts. The first five kilometers of the trail to Zla Kolata was along a forest road where it is important to pay attention to GPS. We missed a turn twice and had to walk couple of hundred meters extra because the marking wasn’t ideal. It’s is certainly good to have a GPS with you if you are anywhere in the Balkans.

After the opening pleasant passage of the forest, the path turned right into the mountains. The walk suddenly was without trees and more demanding. The snow showed up and we were back in winter.

The snow was deep. Fortunately, other enthusiasts had tried to climb Zla Kolata so we could follow their footprints. Unlike in Macedonia, this time I regularly checked GPS if we are going correctly.

Still full winter at Zla Kolata

This time the hike was tough again due to deep snow. Going to the Balkan mountains without snowshoes wasn’t the best idea. Who would expect that? After an hour and a half, we saw Zla Kolata for the first time. I immediately understood the name (Zla means Evil). The mountain is so steep that it looks scary.

Soon we reached the ridge that marks the border between Montenegro and Albania. Here the traces from previous group were ending. The sight of Zla Kolata seemed to have frightened them so much that they decided to return.

*On the border with Albania. From now on the climb will be tough*

We wondered what to do next. The path marked in the GPS map was heading into the valley between Dobra and Zla Kolata. It looked a bit risky when it comes to avalanche danger. It looked like there is a layer of fresh snow. I thought several times to give up and come back next time when there was less snow, but Joanne told me: “Let’s try. If it doesn’t work, we’ll turn around.” I was surprised because my girlfriend almost never takes risks. I didn’t want to be a coward, so I decided to give it a try.

Avalanche danger at Zla Kolata?

To make the climb easier, we hid unnecessary things from our backpacks behind a large stone and continued up with only one backpack. We put on our crampons and headed between Dobra and Zla Kolata. Fortunately, the snow was compact and held well. There didn’t seem to be danger from avalanches. We overcame the unpleasant steep passage in minutes. Then we quickly walked through the valley and reached another steep climb until we reached the ridge between both Kolatas. Fortunately there wasn’t so much snow, so it was without avalanche danger. In a while we reached the final ridge.

Joanne was suddenly scared. The ridge seemed to be too steep for her but the snow was frozen here and I knew the remaining part would be easier than the previous part: “Come on, Joanne, you will easily handle the last 150 elevation meters,” I encouraged her. The final climb wasn’t really that difficult and after a few minutes we were standing on Zla Kolata.

It was warm and calm on the summit so we could enjoy a nice break after seven hours of a tough ascent. Well-deserved rest. We had a magnificent view over the mountain peaks on the Albanian side. Unfortunately, we could’t see across the horizon on the Montenegrin side. Since there was an overhang of snow on the horizon that could collapse, we skipped this view.

*Happy Joanne on the peak. She doesn’t know yet what’s going to happen in an hour*

We didn’t stay on the peak for a long time. It was 5:30 p.m., so we rather hurried to get back to the valley during daylight. After all, we also ordered dinner at eight in the house. Let’s see if we manage to come back in time.

What is tougher? Ascend or descend?

It was much easier to go down. I really enjoy descending in the snow. It’s much more enjoyable than going downhill in summer. It’s faster and much more gentle for your knees and ankles. Along the way we picked up all our stuff and went further down.

It went well on the way down but not as fast as we expected. It was sure we would arrive late. We left the snowy part at 19:30. When we finally saw the path in the forest, we were relieved. Now it is just 90 minutes of a calm walk in the forest. Even though it is getting dark we certainly will not get lost there. The last 6 km.

To make the descent more fun I wanted to start some conversation: “Joanne, do you remember what the landlady said about the last tourists who visited her?” Joanne knew where I was going. “Yes, they saw the bear’s footprints.” – “ And do you know what to do if you see a bear?” Joanne shrugged. “You must look like you’re big and make some sounds so the bear is startled and will flee. But when you are too close or when a bear is with cubs there may be a problem,” I explained (which was all I remembered from a visit of a bear sanctuary in Romania. Actually, my explanation was not even correct. Check here what you should exactly do if you meet a bear.)

Then our conversation ended. We were both tired to talk. We passed a small stream. That made me a little nervous. If there was a bear walking around, he wouldn’t hear us because of the stream. It is noisier than our footsteps. I thought to myself: I have to raise another topic. I need to talk with Joanne so we are louder.

“Brum brum”

Before my tired head could think of something, a bear appeared on the path ahead. My heart almost stopped beating. His bright eyes scared me so much. Instinctively, I raised my hands with poles above my head and started to make sounds with them. “Joanne, pick up your poles too and do the same. We have to show that we are tall.” But even two minutes of clapping with our poles didn’t make the bear move. The bear was still staring at us.

What if he attacked? Do we have a chance to defend ourselves with trekking poles? I was angry at my brain that it was thinking this way. What else should we do to make him leave? I made my brain think about this. What else could scare the bear? He was still standing, watching our futile attempts to scare him. Joanne suddenly screamed. ‘There are two of them! One more little one!”

I didn’t see the other bear but this made me super scared. “Joanne, keep clapping with your poles. I’ll try to find our headlamps in the bag and I’ll turn on some music on my phone. Perhaps it will help…” The bear was still looking at us. I couldn’t find the headlamps. They were of course at the bottom of the backpack. My hands were shaking. Instead of headlamps, I turned on the light on my phone and also the first song on my playlist. It was the song “Death” by my favorite band White Lies. This randomly selected song by iPhone made me laugh inside but I hoped it wouldn’t predict the last minutes of our lives!

The bear is reacting to the song! Apparently he didn’t like my music taste and went down to the river. We were lucky. We sighed but we still had the adrenaline in our veins. What now? Can he come back? What if he went for reinforcements? I couldn’t get rid off these irrational thoughts.

Bad music taste can make miracles

I remembered the most important lesson about bears we omitted in my last conversation with Joanne. How do you avoid meeting bears? You have to make noise. Tourists are usually recommended to wear jingle bells. We didn’t have one so we decided for alternative sounds. Karaoke. We were so scared that we continued singing to other White Lies songs until we reached the village Vusanje. The karaoke fulfilled its purpose. We got back safely.

*Quick Instagram reactions on bear meeting*

We returned at nine o’clock in the evening. “Where have you been so long?” the landlady asked us when we got back. “Bear,” I replied. The landlord understood the situation. “Rakija?” Joanne and I nodded. Rakija and a conversation with the locals until the late hours were a nice end of this crazy bear story. Next time we will not come to the forest without a bear spray and a jingle bell.

My tips for climbing the mountain Zla Kolata:

Bring a jingle bells and bear spray to avoid and protect yourself against bears.
The hike is very long and time consuming. Even in summer there might be snow in the valley below Zla Kolata.
Stay overnight with locals in the village of Vusanje. They are incredibly hospitable.

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