Crown of Europe Archives - The Best Viewpoints

October 12, 2020 • 0 Comment

Crown of Europe – My book is published!

My dreams are coming true! One year ago I completed my expedition European Peaks and I can happily say now that my book about the unforgettable journey has been published! It is now available in bookstores all over the Czech Republic.

It isn’t an easy job to write a book. It took a similarly long time as the expedition itself (I am preparing a whole blog post about how it is to write a book) but I am very proud of the outcome.

What can you find in the book?

I call my book a hybrid. It serves partly as a guide and tells my own stories from the mountains . At the beginning of each chapter you can find practical information about the highest peak of every European country and the chapters continue with my personal stories and of course my photographs.

The stories are also accompanied by interviews with the most famous Czech climbers (Adam Ondra – professional rock climber, Radek Jaroš – climber who summited all the 8000m mountains, and others) who will give the readers tips how to safely climb mountains.

Last and not least, you will find a lot of fun facts from every European country, not only mountains. Europe is so manifold. Did you know for instance that Sweden’s highest point changed last year because it melted?

If you can read Czech, take a look at the book’s website for more information.

Check out summary of the expedition in this short film

Looking for publishers in other countries

After five months on the market I am very happy to announce that the book sells very well in the Czech Republic despite the corona pandemic. Now I have a dream to publish the book in other countries and languages. Do you know a publisher in your country? Please let me know.

Details of the book

Genre: Travel monograph
Number of pages: 304
Book dimensions: 210 × 247 mm
Release Date: May 28, 2020
Binding: Bound with laminated cover

Pictures from the book release

Czech tradition: Baptism of the book. From left actor Jan Révai, writer Ladislav Zibura, me and moderator Michal Kurtiš

Presentation of the book and discussion about travelling

June 13, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 45: Liechtenstein – Vorder Grauspitz

The biggest surprise of the expedition Crown of Europe was waiting for me in Liechtenstein. This ministate hides a polished treasure Vorder Grauspitz, a sharp peak in the alpine mountains Rätikon. The ascent to the summit is unique. You have to climb in a very steep terrain and there is no marked path to the top and you will also walk through a tunnel. Who would expect that we would find such an interesting and demanding ascent in such a small country. Even though Vorder Grauspitz is only 2599 meters high it caused me big difficulties. It became the only mountain of the entire expedition, where I had to give up during my summit day and I had to return again under more favorable conditions. What happened?

Date of summit: 13th June 2019 9:30 
Traveling mode: Ski touring
Height of the peak: 2.599m
Ski touring distance: 4.49 km (Day 1) 
Ski touring distance: 6.54 km (Day 2)
Ski touring time from Älplibahn to Fläscher Alp: 1 hours 18 minutes 
Ski touring time from station Mir to Fläscher Alp: 4 hours 4 minutes  
Elevation climbed: 285m (Day 1)
Elevation climbed: 946m (Day 2) 
Map of my journey from village Azau to Station Mir: Movescount
Map of my journey from station Mir to Vorder Grauspitz: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Club Bier 06 Summer Ale *** (6 stars maximum)

Attempt No. 1

After successful summit of the most challenging mountain of the whole expedition the Crown of Europe – Dufourspitze I wanted to climb one more mountain – Liechtenstein Vorder Grauspitz. Since I heard the climb can be very challenging I decided to climb it with a guide.

We arrived to recently renovated cable car Älplibahn at seven o’clock in the morning. We were told that there is still a continuous snow cover from the cable car’s end station so we took up again back country skis.

On the top we were stopped by an employee of the cable car: “At this time of year the ascent to the summit is very difficult, probably even impossible. This year brought unusually so much snow that I doubt you will manage. Be careful! There can be even avalanches.” We assured him we’ll be careful. Let’s see.

We put our skis on and started our journey. We climbed 200 elevation meters up to the first ridge from which there is a great view of Grauspitz itself. This mountain has actually two peaks – Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz. The marked path leads only to Hinter Grauspitz, which is twenty-five meters lower. Between the two peaks is a very sharp ridge. We’ll see how possible it will be to reach it when we get there.

*The first view over Vorder Grauspitz (the sharp remote peak in the middle of the picture)*

Now there was a valley between us and Grauspitz, so we had to go down and climb up to the opposite ridge. It was nine o’clock in the morning and it was already very warm. The snow turned into a wet slush. The mountain guide warned me in advance: “The conditions are very risky. Avalanches are possible. I’ll go first and see.”

His ride across the slope tore down a small and slow but very heavy and wet avalanche. Climbing Grauspitz in these conditions will be really difficult. We will see what the situation will look like on the other ridge.We skied down to a small farm Fläscher Alp which was covered with snow up to the roofs. This year’s winter has been very generous.

While we continued to the other side of the ridge it was clear that snow was melting fast in this weather. It was most visible on a rocky hill on the other side, where small avalanches were falling very frequently. Soon we reached a hole in the rock. The trail continued through a tunnel. We took off our skies and walked towards the other side of the tunnel but there was an unpleasant surprise. 95% of the entrance was covered by snow. What now?

We had to start digging to get out. After a while we succeeded and we saw Grauspitz from the other side. However, that was the last positive news. More than three meters of wet snow and very steep terrain meant that we can’t continue. It would be too dangerous when it comes to avalanches. This time the weather and the mountains said no. We can’t get to the top. However, the mountain will stay. I’ll try to climb another time.

*Crazy amount of snow at the end of the tunnel*

Attempt No. 2

14 days later I was on the way back. I had big respect to this mountain due to the first experience so I was very careful this time. Before my journey I wrote to the Swiss Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research to see if there was any avalanche danger on Grauspitz. They weren’t actually releasing any statements anymore. June is already off season. However, I got a reply to my email: “There is still over a meter of snow at the top of Grauspitz but the snow cover is stabilized. There should be no avalanche danger in case there will be a freezing night before your summit day.”

After return from Russia I had to wait a few days for the freezing night but it came! Time for the last summit of my expedition.

On June 13 I met again with my two climbing partners who climbed with me the highest point of Switzerland. We all met by the cable car Älplibahn. In order to climb the mountain under the best possible conditions, we decided to meet one day before the summit day to sleep under the peak and go up very early in the morning. This should ensure perfect snow conditions. As we planned we did. We brought again our back country skies but this time we also brought common hiking shoes in case the snow melted.

It was gloomy down by the cable car but as soon as we arrived to the end station of the cable car we got above the clouds. We had a wonderful view of the ocean of clouds and small islands of the snowy Swiss Alps. When the nice old gentleman saw us he immediately laughed, “Haha. Next try? I told you, Grauspitz will not be climbable until the end of June. There’s still over a meter of snow behind the tunnel.” We will see.

This time we didn’t put on skies. There was no snow until the first ridge. What a change in just two weeks! Then we could ski at least for a while until we reached Fläscher Alp farm. Our plan was to sleep there. We originally thought we would just bivouac outside but the weather changed our plans. Clouds suddenly began to rise and covered even the farm. After a while, it even started to rain. Since we didn’t bring any tent we were looking for an alternative accommodation. We were lucky one of the houses for cattle was open so we could sleep on the floor. Nothing luxurious but better than in rain. .

*The snow melted significantly in Fläscher Alp in two weeks*

It was late so we just pulled out our mats and sleeping bags and went to bed. But I didn’t sleep well. “What if the clouds cover the whole mountain and it won’t freeze at night? Was the prediction wrong again? What if I went to the highest mountain in Liechtenstein again, unnecessarily?”

When we woke up at 3:30 a.m. we went outside to check the weather. Still foggy and wet. Our only hope was that the peak remained cloudless. Since we didn’t know what conditions are behind the tunnel brought the back country skies and hiking equipment. I also had to take two pairs of crampons because one pair was fitting my hiking shoes and one was fitting my skiing boots. All together my backpack weighed 20 kilograms.

At 4:15 we were ready to leave. It was as dark and foggy but there was no snow until the tunnel so we reached it easily. At the other end of the tunnel, I was expecting a lot of snow. After all, there were over two meters just two weeks ago. But now? Nothing. All the snow melted. What a surprise! Maybe we didn’t even had to bring the skies.

We continued to the nearby farm Alp Ijes. There was finally snow. It was still foggy but luckily it was freezing so the snow was compact and stable. “We can climb up.” our mountain guide said. Time to ascend.

We continued up according to the navigation. We were still climbing in the fog with bad mood. Hopefully the rising sun will dissolve the clouds. After a while the hope came true. The blue sky began to appear in the clouds above us. We continued up for a few more minutes and got above the clouds. Suddenly we saw all the beauty around. Sharp moutains, long ridges and especially the path we have to take to the top. Amazing. Suddenly I thought that we couldn’t have wished for better weather for the final peak than this one. How quickly the mood can change!

In addition to the great visibility, it was also noticeable that it was freezing on the ridge at night. The snow was hard and frozen. the way to the peak is free. We put down our skis and looked around to see where we would continue. There were two possible routes. Should we follow the ridge to Hinter Grauspitz and then continue to Vorder Grauspitz or should we skip Hinter Grauspitzl traverse along it and get to Vorder Grauspitz directly?

*Which way will be better to Vorder Grauspitz?*

The first alternative seemed to be less steep so we decided for that one. The second option seemed to be too steep at first glance. 80% of the climb to Hinter Grauspitz was on snow so we took crampons on. It was an easy climb. In half an hour we already reached the top of the second highest point of Liechtenstein. The view was beautiful. This part of the Alps is really amazing. Unfortunately, the journey we wanted to take wasn’t possible. The ridge between both Grauspitz was too steep and the rocks were very unstable after the tough winter.

Therefore, we had to return 200 meters down and go to the highest point via the traverse. This route was also very steep but the snow was hard so we could secure with our ice axes.

We passed the traverse in half an hour and we had ahead only the final climb. If all goes well, I’ll finish my expedition in about 15 minutes. From this point, the slope didn’t look as steep it looked from the ridge were we left the skies. This will be an easy climb if I compare it for example with our crazy climb to Maglić. We can do it!

During the last steps, my entire expedition was reflected in my head. In particular, I remembered all the difficult moments: When my mother sprained her ankle in Romania and I accompanied her back to civilization; when Joanne and I met a bear in Montenegro and we almost got scared; when I lost my hiking pole and had to go to the Dufourspitze with a broom; my accident in Scotland… I was beginning to realize that this wonderful ascent would be the last one of the expedition.

The final ridge was very narrow but it was still possible to pass it. In a few minutes I was finally standing on the top. The last mountain of the expedition was conquered.

*What a view you have from Vorder Grauspitz*

In the end, the climb was not as challenging as I feared. I was actually glad that we made the climb on snow. In the summer, climbing on the breaking stones and slippery grass would probably be much tougher. This was actually confirmed by other climbers who climbed Grauspitz in summer.

*Can you see the cross of Hinter Grauspitz?*

I opened the last peak beer and wanted to enjoy the moment of victory but half leaked when I opened it. It made dirty even my Czech flag which I prepared for the top photo. The life is not perfect. I enjoyed the moment anyway.

*Me on the top of the last peak of my expedition with Czech flag dirty of beer*

I wanted to stay on the peak longer but I couldn’t. Time was running out. My flight from Zürich was leaving in six hours. I had to catch the cable car latest in two and half hours so I had at least a theoretical chance to catch the plane back home.

The journey back was crazy. First we ran back to our skies, then we took quick downhill to Alp Ijes where I said goodbye to Petra and our mountain guide. “Thank you very much. I wouldn’t manage this without you. ”and had to continue further with twenty kg backpack. I ran back to Fläscher Alp farm, added a sleeping bag and mat to my backpack and continued to the cable car. My whole body ached, I was very hungry and thirsty, but there was no time to take a break. The tourists I passed were shaking their heads when they saw me running with all the equipment.

I reached the cable car two minutes before its departure. I wanted to rest there but two older but nice and inquisitive ladies kept me asking in the cabin. They also didn’t believe that it was still possible to ski at these altitudes. I showed them photos from the peak and they kept on asking. In the end, I didn’t find time to drink or eat in the cable car. The next opportunity will be at the airport.

The rest of the journey by car to the airport was crazy. I’d rather not describe it. If the Swiss police read it on this blog they would send me a few fines. The important thing was that I caught the plane last minute.

Now I am back at home in Stockholm and I am finally sitting on our couch. My girlfriend is opening champagne and says: “Congratulations to your World Record. You became the fastest to climb the highest mountain of every European country. You made it.” Until then, I wasn’t honestly happy about the completion of the expedition. I just had to hurry all the time. To the cable car, to the plane and to the train from the airport. But now I realize. When we discuss we Joanne all the experiences from last days I am realizing how amazing this expedition was. There is definitely something about the quote from the movie Into the Wild: “Happiness is only real when shared.”

My tips for climbing the mountain Vorder Grauspitz:

In winter conditions there is a big risk of avalanches. Before leaving to the mountains check the current \situation on the website of Swiss Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research
Surprisingly winter ascent may be easier than in summer due to slippery stones and grass in summer
GPS navigation with you is a must.
Chat with the employee of the cable car. He’s a very nice gentleman.

May 23, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 44: Russia – Elbrus

Many people consider Mont Blanc to be Europe’s highest mountain. In fact, it is Russian Elbrus in the Caucasus Mountains. Elbrus is a volcano with two peaks. The western one measures 5642 meters and is 21 meters higher than its eastern brother. Compared to Mont Blanc or Dufourspitze, it is technically simple to climb Elbrus but it is demanding due to meteorological conditions and high altitude.

Date of summit: 8th June 2019 8:45 
Traveling mode: Alpinism
Height of the peak: 5.642m
Alpinism distance: 4.93 km (Day 1) 
Alpinism distance: 3.16 km (Day 2) 
Alpinism distance: 6.16 km (Day 3)  
Alpinism time from village Azau to Station Mir: 2 hours 26 minutes 
Alpinism time from station Mir to Maria shelter: 1 hours 58 minute 
Ski touring time from Maria shelter to Elbrus: 6 hours 4 minutes 
Elevation climbed: 1063m (Day 1)
Elevation climbed: 599m (Day 2) 
Elevation climbed: 1527m (Day 3) 
Map of my journey from village Azau to Station Mir: Movescount
Map of my journey from station Mir to Maria shelter : Movescount 
Map of my journey from Maria shelter to Elbrus: Movescount 
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Valaisanne Baltika 7 Eksportnoe ** (6 stars maximum)

Is Elbrus in Europe? By definition, the border between Europe and Asia is formed by the Caucasus watershed. That places Elbrus in Europe because it lies on the northern side of the watershed in Russia, the European part of the Caucasus. According to this definition there is no doubt about the highest point of our continent.

I flew to Russia with my father and a friend from Sweden Alča. We met at Istanbul airport and arrived together to Mineralnye Vody airport. There we didn’t stay long. We took a taxi (very cheap – 4500 RUR for 180km) to Terskol, a mountain village and main center in the Caucasus mountains.

When we arrived we couldn’t find our pre-booked accommodation in for a while. Google Maps were showing a wrong spot. I wasn’t surprised because I had similar experience also in other Eastern European countries. It would be interesting to know why Google maps often show inaccurate information from these coutnries. However, helpful locals showed us the way so we easily found our cosy guest house. We were tired after long journey so we fell asleep at eight o’clock, accompanied by lightning and rain.

Acclimatization is key to success

For the next day we planned an acclimation climb to Chezem mountain (3461 m). We took a lift in Terskol to 3095m and took a nice hike to the peak. Chezem seemed to be very near. But it wasn’t. Even at this altitude there is nothing free. It took us about an hour and a half to reach it. All in all, it was a very nice acclimatization walk. We warmed up our muscles and we were rewarded with a magnificent view of both “Elbrus’ breasts”.

We decided to stay on the top as long as possible to acclimatize as much as possible. In the end we spent over two hours sunbathing and watching the surrounding snow-capped peaks. We were happy to climb Elbrus. All the other mountains in the area were much sharper, which would mean a technically more demanding climb.

Next day we were ready. Time to move towards Elbrus. We ordered a taxi that took us to village Azau, the starting point to Europe’s highest mountain. There you have three options how to get up. Either you can take the old cable car, the new cable car, or you can climb your own. The village of Azau is only 2350 meters above sea level, which means that you have to overcome the altitude of 3350 meters to the top of Elbrus. Given that the path led along the cableway all the time we decided to use the invention of today’s civilization.

*A “beautiful” painting but useful map for the upcoming climb at the old cable car entrance*

Sleeping in a container

We took the new cable car and after two changes we reached the height of 3800 m above sea level. The only climbers we saw from the cableway were soldiers on duty. The container village of Garabashi lies just next to the end of the highest lift. We started searching for accommodation. It didn’t take us long time. We found a free container with eight beds in a few minutes. We were lucky. For 800 rubles a night we got the whole container just for ourselves. Traveling before the high season showed its advantages.

*This will be our home for the following days*

The accommodation was very modest. We actually didn’t expect anything in the container except for the beds. But we were surprised by electricity and heating in the end. It looks like we won’t freeze. It was also great that there was also a café at the top of the lift so we could order both food and drinks and save our food supplies.

We wanted to take it easy the first day to get used to the altitude but we were feeling good and were a bit bored so we took a walk to Maria Shelter – the last container village at an altitude of 4100 m. It took us an hour to get there. A beautiful suny day was spoiled only by passing snowcats which were taking Russian tourists to a height of 5000 meters.

We decided to relax at Maria Shelter for a while but we couldn’t stay long. A very strong wind arrived. It was so cold that we decided to return. How can it blow on the top when it is so windy here? We returned to our container just before arrival of the next afternoon storm.

The next day we planned to acclimatize by ascending to Pastukhov Rocks at the altitude of 4700 meters. We were feeling well again. However, we entered a cloud at an altitude of 4400 meters, temperatures suddenly dropped and we were freezing. Despite that we managed to get to 4700 meters but couldn’t get higher. The wind was too strong. On the way down another storm arrived and it started to hail. We were returning while covering our faces from painful hail.

The weather wasn’t looking good even for the following days. The wind was supposed to grow even stronger and clouds with snow settled on the top. The only thing we could do was playing cards in our container and walking up and down the same route to acclimatize. The weather forecast showed that the next weather gap might come in three days. Then we can hopefully climb Elbrus.

From Azau to Elbrus

My father and friend Alča planned to acclimatize during the following days. I felt acclimatized enough (my previous climb to Dufourspitze definitely helped) and was bored by going up and down the same path all the time so I was looking for an alternative program for the next two days. In the end I decided to climb the part from village Azau to Garabaši where I “cheated” by going up with the cable car at the beginning. At the altitude below 4000 meters bad weather shouldn’t matter. In the worst case I will get wet. I won’t melt. I’m not made of sugar.

As I planned I also did. I went down with the first cable car. When I reached the village Azau I bought some extra food supplies since our stay on Elbrus will be longer and started to climb up the ski slope. I enjoyed my hike. There were very nice views. I was even lucky with weather. The rain and fog showed up as late as when I reached the second last cable car station – Mir at 3500m. It actually didn’t rain. It looked like an apocalypse. The thunderstorm brought all rain hail and snow and I realized I am partly made of sugar.

Luckily I found there one open café where I found a shelter. I wanted to wait for better weather but it was still falling cats and dogs in an hour. What will I do? The café was closing and I was ready to continue climbing up in the insane weather but I was saved outside by a snowcat. It was going up with supplies. I was a little ashamed that I have to “cheat” again but the weather was really bad.

The next morning we woke up in a sunny day but the wind was still too strong for climbing Elbrus. That’s why I decided to complete my last day’s interrupted climb. I returned to Mir where the snowcat saved me last night and continued climbing up to Garabaši. This time there were no obstacles.

*Hiking in good weather on Elbrus is easy*

When I got back to our container we checked again weather forecast and it looked like the following day should be finally great weather for the summit. We decided to move to the highest container village – Maria Shelter and attempt climbing Elbrus the following day.

Going up around noon with heavy backpack was nothing pleasant. The sky was clear and the sun was burning. Exactly how I imagine staying in the desert – with the only difference, here you have to carry all the winter gear. The climb was not long, but it exhausted me anyway. I was glad I didn’t have to do anything for the rest of the day. Just relax and finally get ready for the climb to Elbrus.

The forecast really looked great. There should be a big storm from afternoon to midnight but then windless and cloudless two days. It was supposed to be cold (around -15 ° C) but this shouldn’t be a problem with no wind. It sounded like ideal conditions for ascent.

We prepared everything we needed and went to bed at eight in the evening to get some rest before the alarm clock would ring at midnight. We were falling asleep during the loudest storm during our whole stay in Russia. That was forecast. It will surely leave before midnight.

Blizzard

We woke up at midnight but the thunderstorm was still there. It was still very strong so we decided to move the alarm clock by an hour. We woke up later at 1 a.m. but the storm hasn’t changed. Still snowing and thundering. this time we decided to get up. The storm will disappear before we take breakfast.

We took a tea and outmeal with dried fruits. We ate everything quickly and prepared to leave. It was positive that the thunder and lightning disappeared. On the other hand it was still snowing heavily and the wind seemed to be even stronger. Since the forecast was predicting a nice sunny day We decided to try it anyway with hope that the storm would leave soon.

We started to climb up but it was difficult. There was about thirty centimeters of new snow. Although two groups set out for their climbs before us we had no chance of finding their tracks. Too heavy snowfall.

We were very slow (actually twice slower than during our acclimatization ascends) and the weather was still not getting better. We continued up in the dark and blizzard. Sudenly we heard a snowcat. Russian climbers decided to simplify their climb and go by the snowcat up to 5000 meters above sea level. However, the huge amount of new snow was tough even for the snowcat. It passed us but turned around soon. The driver saw that it would be impossible to climb Elbrus that day and returned back to the barel village. When we saw the snowcat failure we decided to give up as well and returned to bed.

Next day we woke up in the most beautiful weather. the fresh snow created beautiful scenery but we were depressed because of our fail. Last night mother nature showed us its power. Luckily, we had one more opportunity the following day, on the last day of our Russian visa. The weather was supposed to be prefect and even with no storm the night before. Now or never!

Time to climb Elbrus

Next day we woke up into a clear night with no wind. These were the conditions we have been waiting and hoping for. We took a quick breakfast and started to climb up. Everything went incomparably better than the previous night. This time we started at pace of 350 elevation meters per hour. We passed other groups which set out to the summit earlier, and enjoyed the peace of a beautiful mountain night. The only thing that disturbed the climb was again the snowmobiles, which were taking up lazy tourists as close as possible to the top.

*Today or never. View from the elevation of ca 5000m*

The higher we were the colder it got. We had to put on our down jackets and took some hot tea. It warmed us up except our frozen feet. We have to continue climbing up and wait for the sun to rise. Then it will be warm.

At 5000 meters the sun finally rose above the horizon and started to warm our frozen bodies. There the road for snowcats ended too. Now it’s going to be beautiful. With the sun and without hum of annoying snowmobiles. Our speed dropped with every hundred meters of altitude. From 5000 meters we took a short break to properly oxygenate the body after each 20 steps. With this pace we were still one of the fastest groups. Especially larger groups with Russian mountain guides were moving at a really snail pace. I think I would freeze. I was glad to have read the warnings on various blogs beforehand: We don’t recommend ordering local guides.

At the elevation of 5100 meters we had to take a longer break. Alča got a headache due to altitude. She took one ibuprofen, took a lot of water and we conitnued.

At the altitude of 5300 meters we finally got to the valley between the Eastern and Western Peak. There was no wind and pleasantly warm sun and the climbers took advantage of it. They were taking the last break and snack before the final ascent. We couldn’t resist and also took a short break

The final climb and last 300 elevation meters were the steepest. There was even a fixed rope that most climbers used to secure themselves. From the last break we were climbing up really slowly – 10 steps − pause − 10 steps − pause. After an hour we finally reached the horizon and saw the summit. Now it will be easy. The last passage is almost without elevation.

*We made it. This is the view from the top*

The weather was still great so we had very nice views. The last part was a nice alpine walk. We reached the top among the first climbers, though just after a large group of back country skiers so we had to queue for our summit selfie. But we didn’t care. It was a beautiful day so we enjoyed the views. On one side we could see the vast Russian lowland and on the other sharp Georgian peaks. I wouldn’t mind if time stopped for a while. This moment was amazing. After nine troubling days we finally reached th top of Elbrus. It was the last day of validity of our visas. We wouldn’t get any other opportunity during this visit.

Now there is another challenge. Our flight from Mineralny Vody is leaving in 14 hours. Fortunately, it was very easy to descend in this beautiful weather. I managed to descend to the Maria Shelter just in 1 hour and 30 minutes. Then we just took three lifts and taxi and we could still make a toast with Russian vodka at the airport. Mission completed!

My tips for climbing the mountain Elbrus:

The way to the top of Elbrus from the south is not technically demanding. One can even climb to the top without ropes. Th path is perfectly marked but it is very important not to leave the trail. If you don’t follow the route you can easily end up in a crevasse.
This is only valid in good weather. In poor visibility, strong wind or snow one can easily get lost as we could see the previous day.
Do not underestimate acclimatization!
Although you can find information on the internet that you don’t need your own sleeping bag to stay in the container villages I highly recommend to bring it. You do not want to use old blankets used by numerous climbers before you.
Although some barels offer kitchenettes, do not rely on them and bring your own self cooking equipment
Avoid large groups with Russian mountain guides. Their clients are often badly acclimatized.

May 21, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 42: Switzerland – Dufourspitze / Monte Rosa

The most challenging mountain of the entire expedition Crown of Europe is the Swiss Dufourspitze. Climbing Dufourspitze, named after the Swiss founder of the Red Cross, requires even more physical and mental preparation than Mont Blanc. It requires all – proper acclimatization and experience in both rock and glacier climbing. Those who can cope with all these pitfalls will be rewarded with unforgettable views.

Date of summit: 23rd May 2019 11:35 
Traveling mode: Ski touring
Height of the peak: 4634m
Ski touring distance: 13.77 km (Day 1) 
Ski touring distance: 8.37 km (Day 2) 
Ski touring distance: 17.25 km (Day 3)  
Ski touring time from Klein Matterhorn to Monte Rosa Hut: 5 hours 27 minutes 
Ski touring time from Monte Rosa Hut to Dufourspitze: 8 hours 1 minute 
Ski touring time from Dufourspitze to Zermatt: 5 hours 59 minutes 
Elevation climbed: 499m (Day 1)
Elevation climbed: 1778m (Day 2) 
Elevation climbed: 200m (Day 3) 
Map of my hiking journey from Klein Matterhorn to Monte Rosa Hut: Movescount
Map of my ski touring journey from Monte Rosa Hut to Dufourspitze: Movescount 
Map of my  ski touring journey from Monte Rosa Hut to Zermatt: Movescount 
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Valaisanne Lager Hell *** (6 stars maximum)

After four weeks on the road through the East European and Balkan countries, I took a few days break in my second home in the Czech Republic. I was waiting for proper weather for the most challenging summit in Switzerland. Since I had a big respect to this mountain I booked a mountain guide this time. I was happy I also found one more climbing partner on Facebook. The skiing and rafting instructor Petra decided to join us.

Since there was still a lot of snow in the Alps and it had been snowing lately, we decided to climb Dufourspitze on backcountry skies. We were waiting for a weather gap for a long time. We had to be very flexible. It took one week before the perfect weather gap showed up. It was supposed to be sunny and windless for 48 hours. Time to go.

The move to Switzerland took us a very long time but we had at least some time to get to know each other. It was clear that I would be the least experienced back country skier. The mountain guide had been guiding people on back country skies for thirty years and Petra is a skiing instructor who spends every free time on back country skies. Hopefully, my quadruple back country experience will be enough to handle their pace.

Driving from Czech Republic to Switzerland was tiring. We arrived late at night, slept shortly and arrived early in the morning to the village of Täsch which is the last place you can reach by car on the way to Zermatt. There we took a taxi to one of the most famous villages in the Alps.

Time to acclimatize

We didn’t stay long in Zermatt. We planned to acclimatize and move to the Monte Rosa hut that day, so we quickly headed for the cable car station and bought a ticket for the Klein Matterhorn. It is the highest cable way station in Europe with its height of 3883 m above the sea level. A perfect starting point for an acclimatization walk.

I was short of breath. Overcoming more than 2,000 elevation meters in a few minutes isn’t the easiest task for people’s lungs. I was getting used to the thin air while looking at skiers who were coming back to Zermatt on still perfect and almost empty slopes. Shouldn’t we rather go skiing?

In a few minutes my lungs got a bit used to the thin air, so I was ready to start our acclimatization skiing day. The plan was to traverse around the mountains Breithorn and Roccia Nera and then descend via the Schwärzegletscher glacier to the Monte Rosa hut where we will sleep before the subsequent summit day.

My first challenging off-piste skiing

We moved slowly to get used to the thin air. Fortunately, the journey was not long. It took us two hours until we reached the point from where we wil ski down. When I saw where we were going to go down, I thought to myself how much percent chance I had to survive this. Will an avalanche or a fall in a crevasse kill me? But we were with a mountain guide so I trusted his route selection.

The skiing was amazing. Until we reached the elevation of 3300 m above sea level there was perfect powder snow. Then, the downhill was much more difficult since there was a layer of ice on the snow. I had to use the “plow position” most of the time. Nevertheless, we managed to descend the slope, and even managed to enjoy views of the Matterhorn and other sharp peaks of the Swiss Alps.

When we were almost down the glacier below theMonte Rosa Hut, Petra and our mountain guide noticed a shortcut. It looked great. If we manage to pass it we can skip climbing at least 200 elevation meters. At first I was glad. I don’t like unnecessary climbs. After a few meters, however, I saw what we have to descend: a rocky field covered with heavy wet snow. Is this a good idea?

End of the Dufourspitze climb?

Our mountain guide managed to reach the glacier without problems. I was following but then I fell for the first, second, third time. Fortunately, these were all controlled falls so I just shrugged it off and kept on skiing. I thought I could handle the downhill in the wet snow and continued down when one of my legs suddenly fell one meter deep in the snow. My leg got stuck in the snow and my face just fell straight down.

*Don’t shovel like this. It doesn’t work. It’s better not to be lazy and assemble it first*

I must have looked ridiculous and worse, I couldn’t get out of the position. My leg was stuck and I didn’t feel it. Does that mean that I lost it or that nothing happened to me? When Petra came to help me, it turned out that my leg is alive. She helped me to dig out of the snow and I was ready to continue descending.

But then I realized I am missing one pole. Where is it? Petra and I started shoveling. We dug and dug but couldn’t find it. What now? Finally our mountain guide returned. I was hoping he would help us finding it but the leader said instead: “If you don’t remember at least roughly where it might have ended, it’s like looking for a needle in a haystack. You have no chance.” Of course, I had no idea so I sadly gave up on my pole. Hopefully I would find some solution to replace it.

We still had to climb a few elevation meters until the Monte Rosa Hut. The glacier towards the hut was already influenced by afternoon sun so it was difficult to climb up. Even more for me, because I had just one pole.

Time to Improvise

We arrived to the Monte Rosa Hut just before sunset. I was super tired. Well, it makes sense. What would you expect after acclimatization at 3800 meters, unsuccessful shoveling of roughly a wagon of snow and ascent of ca 500 altitude meters. I ate one Adventure Menu quickly and wanted to go to bed early but before going to bed I had to solve my pole problem. The shops in the Monte Rosa Hut are closed during off season so I had to find an alternative. I walked around the hut when I suddenly saw my salvation: a broom! It was was the perfect size. The same size like my remaining stick. Problem solved!

After consulting with the only other group trying to ascend Dufourspitze the following day we decided to leave at 2:30 a.m. in the morning. Time to sleep.

But I couldn’t sleep. The risk of shared dormitories was once again manifested. Two of the six people snored loudly and my earplugs didn’t help. I rolled over and tried to fall asleep but in vain. After four hours of rolling, the alarm clock rang and everyone started preparing their breakfast. I gave up and went to eat too.

Summit day to Dufourspitze

Chicken tikka masala may sound like a weird breakfast at two in the morning but it tasted good and gave me the energy I needed. Then we quickly packed up our equipment and got ready for the summit. Dufourspitze is waiting.

It was surprisingly warm at the hut but that was about to change soon. First we climbed relatively quickly and my broom stick worked well, so I didn’t cause much delay. The problems occurred from about 3500 m above sea level. I wasn’t as well acclimatized as my friends but there was nothing to be done about it. We had to climb together. I just had to follow my pace and hoped my friends wouldn’t freeze.

The closer to sunrise was the colder it was. Unfortunately, the forecast was correct, −17 ° C was absolutely right. For the first time in my life I put on my expedition feather jacket on the actual climb (mostly I use it only during breaks or on top of mountains). Again, I hoped my friends wouldn’t freeze.

It was very cold but we had incredible views. I will never forget watching the first red sun rays covering Matterhorn and the surrounding mountains. Unfortunately, the sunshine didn’t reach us as the sun was behind the Monte Rosa massif.

Nothing for people having fear of heights

After five freezing hours we finally reached the Sattel ridge, where the bright sun warmed us up. Suddenly I felt pleasantly warm, just a bit scared of what is ahead. From now on we will have to climb a narrow and steep ridge. It was time to take off the skis, put on the crampons, tie in on the rope and continue on the steep ridge.

It was going well on the snow. The problem occurred when we had to start climbing the rocks. At that point I was really happy to have an experienced mountain guide with us. I would have turned around without him. I felt secured being on the rope.

I regretted not leaving my huge feather jacket and my large backpack with my skis. I felt very awkward during the climb but I was at least not cold. The ridge was very long and there were a few misleading horizons ahead. I thought several times that we must be on the top but there has always been a new one. The climb on the ridge took us over two hours. It was very challenging. Fortunately, we were lucky with the weather. The sun was warm and there was almost no wind. We finally reached the top at 11 am and enjoyed the well-deserved rest.

Deserved views from Dufourspitze

*The views from the top are simply amazing*

Even though the views were amazing we didn’t stay on the top for a long time. We took a snack, took the necessary photographs, and decided to return. We still had a long way to go. The ridge was very difficult even during the descend. We returned to our skies as late as at 2 p.m. Then everything went much faster. We put our skis on and enjoyed the deserved descent back to the Monte Rosa Hut. In half an hour we managed to ski down 1,500 meters of altitude.

We wanted to take just a short meal and continue to Zermatt but the weather was against us. The sun was burning now. Compared to the morning −17 degrees, it had warmed by 40 degrees. The thermometer was showing 25°C, which meant that going downhill on the glacier to Zermatt would be dangerous. None of us wanted to fall into a crevasse so we stayed one more night at the Monte Rosa Hut.

We slept twelve hours. We recharged our batteries and finally skied down back back to civilization. The glacier was still frozen in the morning so we could ski down for the entire 10 kilometers. When we passed the glacier we still had to hike an additional 8 kilometer along the glacier river. It was also tough in ski boots and with skies on the back but we managed to get into Zermatt safely. In Zermatt we were welcome by draft beer and tasty garlic soup in restaurant Furi. We made it!

My tips for climbing the mountain Dufourspitze:

Climbing Dufourspitze is even more challenging than Mont Blanc. Experience with belaying not only on the glacier, but also on the rock is a necessity.
Acclimatization before the climb is necessary too.
Choose a mountain guide you trust.
Don’t bring a large jacket and backpack on the final Sattel ridge. It feels very clumsy.

May 18, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 41: Bosnia and Herzegovina – Maglić

Maglić, sometimes also called Bosanski Maglić, is the most beautiful mountain of the highest points of all Balkan states. It looks like a limestone pyramid with steep 700 meter high rock walls. If you manage to climb a steep via ferrata you will find a cylindrical column with a flag of the Republic of Srpska (one of the two federations of Bosnia and Herzegovina) and spectacular views on the top.

Date of summit: 8th May 2019 11:30 
Traveling mode: Winter Hiking
Height of the peak: 2386m
Hiking distance: 3.54 km 
Time to ascend to Maglić: 3 hours 3 minute 
Elevation climbed: 754m
Map of my winter hike journey to Maglić: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Nektar Pivo ** (6 stars maximum)

After our bear story in Montenegro, my girlfriend and I continued to the last Balkan country on my expedition. Arriving to Bosnia and Hercegovina was an interesting driving experience. The quality of roads went sharply down after crossing the borders of Montenegro. On the other hand, the roads could boast of lots of cattle. Until we reached the village of Tjentiště lying at the foot of Maglić, we met the whole farm including cows, sheep, pigs and goats.

The journey wasn’t only interesting from an animal perspective. We had also amazing views over landscapes. I personally most liked the views of the Durmitor Mountains which were covered in fresh snow and the drive through the Sutjeska National Park through a very interesting deep canyon.

When we arrived to Tjentiště, we found a surprisingly nice and modern campsite with cozy cottages, so we could sleep well before climbing the highest mountain in Maglić.

The way to the top looked simple as described on the Internet. We will go from Tjentiště by car to the starting point of the hike and the actual climb will be only two kilometers long with less than 700 meters of elevation. The articles online were mentioning that the ascent is steep and accompanied by a ferrata but nothing extra demanding so we were looking forward to it.

Still a lot of snow

We woke up early to start our hike during sunrise. The weather was perfect and the Windy app was saying there is no snow on Maglić. Nothing should stop us from making a successful ascent. We took the gravel road to the beginning of the climb. It was surprisingly well passable but there was snow one kilometer before our destination. The snow didn’t let us through. It looks like the apps were wrong: we will have to encounter winter obstacles even on Maglić. We had to stop our car, park it and extend our climb by a kilometer. We packed our backpacks including crampons and left towards Maglić.

One of the most beautiful Balkan mountains

We came to the starting point after fifteen minutes and there we had an amazing view over Maglić. We couldn’t wait to climb it. After we took a few pictures we headed up. The climb was very steep right from the start. The opening short passage in the forest soon changed into ascent on rocks and small stones. After forty minutes we reached a large snow field. The Windy app was wrong this time.

Since the sun didn’t reach us from behind Maglić the snow was frozen. We had to put on crampons. The slope was becoming steeper and steeper. Slipping down would mean going down several hundred meters on our butts. I was sad we didn’t have ice axes with us.

After climbing about 400 meters of altitude on the snow field, the snow suddenly ended and it seemed that the rest of the way was just climbing via via ferrata. We left there our crampons to have lighter backpacks and headed up. It was obvious that we were the first ones to try to climb this year. There were a lot of fallen stones on the trail and the via ferrata was often still frozen to the rock, so we couldn’t use it. Some of the rocks which looked like solid handles were breaking in our hands after winter erosion. The climb wasn’t the safest thing I have done. We had to be extra careful with every elevation meter. Looking down I thought we wouldn’t survive a fall.

Via ferrata in winter without proper equipment is a hazard

I didn’t quite understand how all the articles about Maglić were claiming it is an “easy scrambling”. The climb looked pretty dangerous to me in these conditions. Fortunately, Joanne was brave and accustomed to the heights from climbing centers, so she didn’t protest and continued climbing up with me.

We managed to get just 40 elevation meters from the summit. It was so close but suddenly a new snow passage appeared. We didn’t see it from below. Shit. We left our crampons behind. Neither me nor Joanne liked the last steep meters in snow. We discussed what to do. Joanne was too scared to continue. I was going to try to reach the peak without crampons, by digging steps in the snow. If that doesn’t work we would just turn around. If it did work, I would be back soon. The peak is near. Joanne would wait for me.

I was lucky. The snow had an ideal consistency. It was still hard so I could make steps by kicking in it. I could continue up well while holding the surrounding rocks to secure myself. I managed to climb 35 altitude meters and I already saw the peak. It was so close but I saw that I cannot continue. There was no snow in front of me but ice. I couldn’t hold anything. Climbing the last five meters would be suicide without crampons and ice axe. I had to give up.

Feeling stupid on the top

*The last part was a bit crazy but luckily manageable*

I was sadly coming back to Joanne when I noticed one more potential way to get to the top. There was a narrow path between two rocks. It looked steep but it should be possible without crampons. I tried this way and it worked. A few steps up I got over the rocks, overcome the final overhang and stood on the summit. I did it!

Even though I manage it didn’t feel correct. I was feeling ashamed. Joanne is waiting for me. I thought I can climb up quickly but the ascent to the summit and return looked like it would eventually take an hour and a half.

*View from the top was amazing but I couldn’t enjoy it for long time*

I just took essential pictures on the top and wanted to descend back to Joanne when I saw four other tourists suddenly heading toward the summit from the other side of the ridge. It was an Austrian family with two kids who went to the summit in shorts and without crampons. “Where did you come from?” I couldn’t believe my eyes. “We reached the peak from Montenegro. The journey was a few kilometers longer than yours but it wasn’t steep and with almost no snow. It took us three hours to get here.”

*Austrian family reaching* Maglić *from Montenegro*

I was feeling hopeless. Why the hell couldn’t I find any article about this alternative route on the Internet? And why did nobody in our camp recommend this route for us? We spoke about getting to Maglić the whole evening last night. We had unnecessarily followed a risky path while we could have had a pleasant day hike.

I was scared to descend back to Joanne but I didn’t have any other option. Fortunately, my black scenario that going down would be worse than going up didn’t come true. I descended calmly and slowly without problem. Then we descended back to the car together.

The descent was very long. It took us 3 hours and 30 minutes to reach the summit. We went down the same way. In winter, I would never chose this route again without proper climbing equipment including crampons, harness, rope and ice ax.

*Safely under* Maglić *after tough summit and descent. This was a bit crazy*

My tips for climbing the mountain Maglić:

I recommend a 4×4 car to get to the starting point. The road can be difficult to pass, especially after rain.
If you want to skip steep via ferrata, choose an alternative route to Maglić across Montenegro. It is much safer.
Do not walk off the marked trails. There can be still mines from the Balkan wars in the ground.
Bring jingle bells and pepper spray against bears. We saw one bear from our car.

May 17, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 40: Montenegro – Zla Kolata

Montenegro’s highest mountain lies on the border, like the highest points of other Balkan states. Zla Kolata is also the 16th highest peak in Albania. The peak lies in the national park Prokletije known for sharp limestone rocks and the mountain of Zla Kolata, also known as Maja Kolata or Kolac, isn’t an exception. This mountain has the shape of a massive rock tooth. Was it difficult to climb?

Date of summit: 8th May 2019 17:10 
Traveling mode: Winter Hiking
Height of the peak: 2535m
Hiking distance: 10.09 km 
Time to ascend to Zla Kolata: 5 hours 7 minute 
Elevation climbed: 1553m 
Map of my winter hike journey to Zla Kolata: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Nikšićko Pivo ** (6 stars maximum)

After climbing Rudoka e Madhe in Kosovo, we didn’t have much time to chill. The weather forecast was favorable only for one more day so we drove directly to Montenegro. We slept in a motel on the way and arrived to the starting point of the hike – village Vusanje in the morning.

We were looking for accommodation and we found the cozy guesthouse Kollata. The landlady was just milking a cow. “Excuse me, do you please have a free bed?” We saw in her face that she was happy that some guests arrived. She told us that she had her last visitors one week ago, who were also trying to climb Zla Kolata. They were Czechs but they didn’t manage to climb it due to bad weather. She mentioned by the way that these guests saw bear’s footprints along the way.

Long day ahead

From what we had read, the journey to the summit and back should take about 10 hours, so we asked the landlady to prepare dinner for us at eight o’clock when we expected to be back.

*The starting point of the hike – village Vusanje*

The weather couldn’t be better this day. The sun was shining and there was no wind. It was so warm that we could have started our hike in shorts. The first five kilometers of the trail to Zla Kolata was along a forest road where it is important to pay attention to GPS. We missed a turn twice and had to walk couple of hundred meters extra because the marking wasn’t ideal. It’s is certainly good to have a GPS with you if you are anywhere in the Balkans.

After the opening pleasant passage of the forest, the path turned right into the mountains. The walk suddenly was without trees and more demanding. The snow showed up and we were back in winter.

The snow was deep. Fortunately, other enthusiasts had tried to climb Zla Kolata so we could follow their footprints. Unlike in Macedonia, this time I regularly checked GPS if we are going correctly.

Still full winter at Zla Kolata

This time the hike was tough again due to deep snow. Going to the Balkan mountains without snowshoes wasn’t the best idea. Who would expect that? After an hour and a half, we saw Zla Kolata for the first time. I immediately understood the name (Zla means Evil). The mountain is so steep that it looks scary.

Soon we reached the ridge that marks the border between Montenegro and Albania. Here the traces from previous group were ending. The sight of Zla Kolata seemed to have frightened them so much that they decided to return.

*On the border with Albania. From now on the climb will be tough*

We wondered what to do next. The path marked in the GPS map was heading into the valley between Dobra and Zla Kolata. It looked a bit risky when it comes to avalanche danger. It looked like there is a layer of fresh snow. I thought several times to give up and come back next time when there was less snow, but Joanne told me: “Let’s try. If it doesn’t work, we’ll turn around.” I was surprised because my girlfriend almost never takes risks. I didn’t want to be a coward, so I decided to give it a try.

Avalanche danger at Zla Kolata?

To make the climb easier, we hid unnecessary things from our backpacks behind a large stone and continued up with only one backpack. We put on our crampons and headed between Dobra and Zla Kolata. Fortunately, the snow was compact and held well. There didn’t seem to be danger from avalanches. We overcame the unpleasant steep passage in minutes. Then we quickly walked through the valley and reached another steep climb until we reached the ridge between both Kolatas. Fortunately there wasn’t so much snow, so it was without avalanche danger. In a while we reached the final ridge.

Joanne was suddenly scared. The ridge seemed to be too steep for her but the snow was frozen here and I knew the remaining part would be easier than the previous part: “Come on, Joanne, you will easily handle the last 150 elevation meters,” I encouraged her. The final climb wasn’t really that difficult and after a few minutes we were standing on Zla Kolata.

It was warm and calm on the summit so we could enjoy a nice break after seven hours of a tough ascent. Well-deserved rest. We had a magnificent view over the mountain peaks on the Albanian side. Unfortunately, we could’t see across the horizon on the Montenegrin side. Since there was an overhang of snow on the horizon that could collapse, we skipped this view.

*Happy Joanne on the peak. She doesn’t know yet what’s going to happen in an hour*

We didn’t stay on the peak for a long time. It was 5:30 p.m., so we rather hurried to get back to the valley during daylight. After all, we also ordered dinner at eight in the house. Let’s see if we manage to come back in time.

What is tougher? Ascend or descend?

It was much easier to go down. I really enjoy descending in the snow. It’s much more enjoyable than going downhill in summer. It’s faster and much more gentle for your knees and ankles. Along the way we picked up all our stuff and went further down.

It went well on the way down but not as fast as we expected. It was sure we would arrive late. We left the snowy part at 19:30. When we finally saw the path in the forest, we were relieved. Now it is just 90 minutes of a calm walk in the forest. Even though it is getting dark we certainly will not get lost there. The last 6 km.

To make the descent more fun I wanted to start some conversation: “Joanne, do you remember what the landlady said about the last tourists who visited her?” Joanne knew where I was going. “Yes, they saw the bear’s footprints.” – “ And do you know what to do if you see a bear?” Joanne shrugged. “You must look like you’re big and make some sounds so the bear is startled and will flee. But when you are too close or when a bear is with cubs there may be a problem,” I explained (which was all I remembered from a visit of a bear sanctuary in Romania. Actually, my explanation was not even correct. Check here what you should exactly do if you meet a bear.)

Then our conversation ended. We were both tired to talk. We passed a small stream. That made me a little nervous. If there was a bear walking around, he wouldn’t hear us because of the stream. It is noisier than our footsteps. I thought to myself: I have to raise another topic. I need to talk with Joanne so we are louder.

“Brum brum”

Before my tired head could think of something, a bear appeared on the path ahead. My heart almost stopped beating. His bright eyes scared me so much. Instinctively, I raised my hands with poles above my head and started to make sounds with them. “Joanne, pick up your poles too and do the same. We have to show that we are tall.” But even two minutes of clapping with our poles didn’t make the bear move. The bear was still staring at us.

What if he attacked? Do we have a chance to defend ourselves with trekking poles? I was angry at my brain that it was thinking this way. What else should we do to make him leave? I made my brain think about this. What else could scare the bear? He was still standing, watching our futile attempts to scare him. Joanne suddenly screamed. ‘There are two of them! One more little one!”

I didn’t see the other bear but this made me super scared. “Joanne, keep clapping with your poles. I’ll try to find our headlamps in the bag and I’ll turn on some music on my phone. Perhaps it will help…” The bear was still looking at us. I couldn’t find the headlamps. They were of course at the bottom of the backpack. My hands were shaking. Instead of headlamps, I turned on the light on my phone and also the first song on my playlist. It was the song “Death” by my favorite band White Lies. This randomly selected song by iPhone made me laugh inside but I hoped it wouldn’t predict the last minutes of our lives!

The bear is reacting to the song! Apparently he didn’t like my music taste and went down to the river. We were lucky. We sighed but we still had the adrenaline in our veins. What now? Can he come back? What if he went for reinforcements? I couldn’t get rid off these irrational thoughts.

Bad music taste can make miracles

I remembered the most important lesson about bears we omitted in my last conversation with Joanne. How do you avoid meeting bears? You have to make noise. Tourists are usually recommended to wear jingle bells. We didn’t have one so we decided for alternative sounds. Karaoke. We were so scared that we continued singing to other White Lies songs until we reached the village Vusanje. The karaoke fulfilled its purpose. We got back safely.

*Quick Instagram reactions on bear meeting*

We returned at nine o’clock in the evening. “Where have you been so long?” the landlady asked us when we got back. “Bear,” I replied. The landlord understood the situation. “Rakija?” Joanne and I nodded. Rakija and a conversation with the locals until the late hours were a nice end of this crazy bear story. Next time we will not come to the forest without a bear spray and a jingle bell.

My tips for climbing the mountain Zla Kolata:

Bring a jingle bells and bear spray to avoid and protect yourself against bears.
The hike is very long and time consuming. Even in summer there might be snow in the valley below Zla Kolata.
Stay overnight with locals in the village of Vusanje. They are incredibly hospitable.

May 16, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 39: Kosovo – Rudoka e Madhe

Until recently, Đeravica was considered to be the highest mountain of Kosovo. However, the border between Kosovo and Northern Macedonia was adjusted and it moved to the top of Rudoka e Madhe (also known as Velika Rudoka in Macedonian and Maja e Njeriut in Albanian), which is 2 meters higher than Đeravica. It means that there is a new highest point of the country. How was my climb to this 2658 m high mountain?

Date of summit: 7th May 2019 13:40 
Traveling mode: Winter Hiking
Height of the peak: 2658m
Hiking distance: 11.75 km 
Time to ascend to Rudoka e Madhe: 5 hours 15 minute 
Elevation climbed: 1416m 
Map of my hiking to  Rudoka e Madhe: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Sabaja IPA **** (6 stars maximum)

After climbing the highest point of Northern Macedonia and Albania – Golem Korab, I changed my climbing partner. My mum had to go back to work, but I could welcome another awesome woman. My girlfriend Joanne joined me for the next three mountains – the highest points of Kosovo, Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina.

*We visited even Pristina. This is the main largest library in the country*

The weather was still worse than expected. We had to wait three days until the weather was reasonable enough to climb Rudoka e Madhe. We took advantage of the break from the mountains and explored the Albanian coast. Even though it was raining we enjoyed biking on the beach.

The city of Prizren at the doorstep of Kosovan mountains

When the weather was finally getting better we headed to the Arxhena ski resort in Kosovo where you can find the starting point to Rudoka e Madhe. We passed the nice city Prizren, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and then many cows, sheep and goats on the road before we arrived to hotel Arxhena just next to the ski resort.

In a horror movie

It looked very modern from a distance. We wondered: “Maybe, that’s why it was so expensive on booking.com. It might be a luxury!” However, when we entered it looked terrible inside. Unfinished constructions, holes in staircases, reception covered by plastic, no radiators. Will we survive here until the morning?

We did even though it was cold at night. We got up at six o’clock to have extra time in case the weather forecast didn’t work and that was a good decision. It was supposed to be sunny but we got a surprise. When we looked out of the window it was completely white outside. New snow and cloudy. We expected snow on top of Rudoka e Madhe but not here next to our hotel which lies only at 1500 meters above sea level. Really? It is the 7th of May!

Well, the hike will be all in the snow. After a quick breakfast we set out on our journey. It was beautiful outside. The landscape looked like in a fairy tale with the fresh snow. I must admit that the locals chose a beautiful spot for the ski resort. The sharp rocks surrounding the hotel covered by snow looked amazing.

The first part of the journey to the highest point of Kosovo was going on the slope. It was the steepest part of the tour. The skiing season was already over so the lift was not in operation. After the initial climb we followed an approximately 5 km long valley until we reached an abandoned farmhouse. We were lucky that the clouds were constantly getting higher, so we still had a nice view over the “sugar covered” landscape.

*The longest part of the hike is along this beautiful canyon*

Sudden tough winter expedition

Behind the farmhouse, it was clear that the climb will be more challenging. The freshly fallen snow was joined by snow from the past winter months. There were no traces in the snow at all. It looked like no one had gone to the summit of Rudoka e Madhe in recent days. Who knows if anyone at all this year.

*We could see Rudoka for only a very short time just when we reached the small farmhouse*

We had to make our own way. I wish we would have had snowshoes. We got deep with every step. The hike was getting tougher and tougher and the clouds suddenly dropped. We ended up in a dense fog. We couldn’t see further than a few meters. Thanks to GPS we could still continue towards the summit. Luckily Rudoka e Madhe isn’t steep so we weren’t scared of complicated terrain like on the way to Golem Korab in Macedonia.

During the final ascent, there were parts of deep snow and ice. We were glad we had crampons with us. We put them on and continued. The higher we were, the stronger the wind blew. It brought fresh snow and it sometimes felt like we were climbing Everest. A kilometer before the summit of Rudoka e Madhe we passed a 2629 meter high peak and continued along a ridge. Here the terrain was supposed to be a bit more steep but we couldn’t see anything. Luckily the snow was frozen and solid so we weren’t scared of avalanches.

After a while we saw a small column in front of us. That’s Rudoka e Madhe! We are on top of Kosovo. We had no view but we were happy we managed it. I enjoyed the winning feeling with a peak beer and Joanne with coke.

*Happy to share these experiences with Joanne*

We followed our traces on the way back so it was much faster. After four hours we got back to our hotel where we got a tasty soup. We were tired but we definitely didn’t want to stay in the hotel for another night. In addition to the unpleasant hotel experience, we had also checked the weather forecast. The next day it should be clear sky in Montenegro and then 5 days of heavy snowfall. Tomorrow or never. We have to try climbing the highest point of Montenegro!

*On the way back to the hotel the snow has already melted at some points and beautiful flowers whowed up*

My tips for climbing the mountain Rudoka e Madhe:

Do not stay overnight at the Arxhena Hotel. In addition to the terrible atmosphere, the hotel is also very expensive.
The hike is very long. Don’t underestimate food and water supplies for the trip.
The orientation can be more complicated. Be sure to take GPS navigation with you.
Visit the city Prizren, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on the way.

May 15, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 38: Macedonia/Albania – Golem Korab

Until recently, the Korabi mountains and its highest peak Golem Korab, were a closed area for tourists. It was possible to climb Golem Korab only once a year, the first Sunday in September, and only from the Macedonian side. Finally these times are gone so it is possible to explore the mountains anytime. It is only necessary to fill in the registration with the border police in Stezimir before you head out to the top of the Golem Korab, sometimes also called Great Korab or Mount Korab.

Date of summit: 2nd May 2019 13:10 
Traveling mode: Winter Hiking
Height of the peak: 2750m
Hiking distance: 8.44 km 
Time to ascend to Mount Korab: 5 hours 47 minute 
Elevation climbed: 1411m 
Map of my hiking to Golem Korab: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: *****   (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Skopsko Svetlo Pivo ** (6 stars maximum)

Nowadays you can climb Golem Korab from both the Northern Macedonian and the Albanian side. For logistical reasons my mum and I decided for the climb from North Macedonia. We left Serbia and entered the de facto new country – North Macedonia was in February 2019 renamed from Macedonia.

We were welcome by views over sharp snow covered mountains. On the one hand we were pleased by the beautiful weather and views. On the other we got a bit scared by the amount of snow. How much snow is there on Golem Korab? Is it safe to climb it in these conditions?

*Macedonian vodka for good luck in the mountains*

The biggest problem was that we couldn’t find any information online about the current conditions on Golem Korab. Is there any avalanche danger? The only thing we found out was that this time the weather should be on our side. Unlike in Serbia this time it was supposed to be sunny the whole day.

Power of social media

I got another idea how to find current information from the mountains. I turned on Instagram and searched for hashtags #mountkorab #golemkorab and I found two posts that were only a few hours old. Two ski alpinists celebrated their successful climbs. Great. The conditions from their pictures looked amazing. I showed my discovery to my mom and we felt relieved. To find out more information I sent both climbers a message to ask for more details. I quickly got an answer: “There was no problem on the way to the peak. There is no avalanche danger in the mountains. The only inconvenience was strong wind, but it is not expected tomorrow when you plan to climb Golem Korab. Good luck!”

We stayed overnight near the Mavrovo reservoir in a hotel named Hotel Korab Trnica. Although it was the closest possible hotel to the starting point of the hike, the following day it still took us 45 minutes to drive there in the morning. For a simple reason. The gravel road turned out to be full of holes and we had to drive very carefully. I was very happy that we had a strong 4×4 car, so we managed to pass all the potholes. We passed even the border control, where apparently everyone was still sleeping (Don’t forget to bring your passports though. They are usually checked here).

At 6 o’clock we arrived at the starting point Stezimir. We weren’t alone there. Two groups of Czechs and Poles that were tenting there were also just getting ready for the climb. Before we got ready they started their summit attempt. We took a small breakfast and also set out on our journey.

*The beginning of the hike was snowless*

Stupid sheep

My mum went up quickly which surprised me. She got into a really good shape before this trip. Soon we left the initial forest and caught up with the first Polish group. The landscape was changing rapidly. With the forests we also left grassy meadows full of purple crocuses behind and soon entered the winter paradise. From 1800 meters we were above the snow line and hiking up constantly in snow. Fortunately, the Czechs and Poles created a good track in front of us so we didn’t get too deep in the snow.

When we passed half of the elevation meters both the Czech and the Polish group were taking a break. It seemed to be a great idea so we also took a small snack. By the time we finished, the Czechs were already hiking up again. We followed them after a few minutes. The climb was getting more and more difficult after a while. The terrain got very steep and there was a very difficult traverse in front of us. Did the Czechs choose the correct way? I quickly looked at my GPS map and found out that we are 300 meters above the official trail. What route did the Czechs take? Do they know what they are doing?

*You can see here how easy it was to take the correct path (picture taken on the way down)*

We had to decide what to do next. Shall we go about a kilometer back and lose 300 altitude meters, or should we keep on following the Czechs and pass this steep section somehow? In the end we decided to try the second option. If they managed, why shouldn’t we?

On the edge on the way to Golem Korab

*In this zoomed picture you can see the path we took – the one in the rocks*

We couldn’t make any mistake. If we make a wrong step there we would fall 100 meters down. The surface was slippery and the rocks were breaking after the winter erosion. I wasn’t worried about myself but a lot about my mother. What if she slips and falls? That would be the end. Why didn’t we return? Now it’s too late. We have to continue. We took every step as carefully as possible. I was proud of my mum how she was managing. I was so stressed that I didn’t take any picture of this steep traverse but that’s not important. We managed to pass it.

The worst part of the alternative hike route was behind us but we entered now a snow free terrain so the Czechs’ steps disappeared. Where to go now? I checked the GPS map and it turned out to be best to reach the ridge. My mum was scared that the climb will be even worse but luckily the maps were correct. We climbed 100 meters up and there was a nice trail in the snow again. We followed this path and soon met the group of Poles again who managed to somehow overtake us . “Fucking Czechs,” I said, “Where did they take us?” The Poles were laughing but I saw worry in their faces as well. They actually followed us but decided to come back and follow the regular hiking route. A much wiser decision.

Rely on your own skills

We followed the Czechs like a herd of sheep. So stupid. It could have resulted in a big mistake! Please, never rely on others, especially if you don’t know them. This was a big lesson for me.

We continued hiking up with the Poles. We finally could see the peak of Golem Korab. Just one hundred elevation meters before the summit we met the Czechs. They were already coming back from the peak. When we saw them it was clear that they were sorry for what they had caused. They apologized and were glad that no one was hurt on the wrong path. As a punishment they had no view from the top. A cloud caught them there.

*Peak selfie and view from Golem Korab behind us*

We reached the top a few minutes later. Since there was a thick cloud we didn’t have a view either but were happy we managed. We opened a peak beer with my mum. My mom is a great climbing partner! Before we finished our beer the weather recovered and we had a wonderful view of both the Macedonian and the Albanian side. The mountains around were wonderful. It felt like in the Alps in the middle of winter. I don’t want to repeat myself, but I didn’t really count on such beautiful snow-capped mountains in the Balkans in May.

I killed two birds with one stone with this ascent. Golem Korab is the highest point of both Northern Macedonia and Albania. You can also consider a hike to Golem Korab from the Albanian side, which is similarly difficult and long. The route starts in the village of Radomirë.

My tips for climbing the mountain Golem Korab:

Make sure to bring your passport with you. You will probably be checked at the starting point.
Don’t miss a visit of Skopje, the bizarre capital full of interesting monuments. You can also find there Europe’s second largest marketplace.

May 14, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 37: Serbia – Midžor

Serbia’s highest point Midžor lies on the border with Bulgaria in the Stara Planina mountains near the ski resort Babin Zub. The mountains are known for grassy plains similar to Romania. The hike to the top of Midžor is not particularly steep, and therefore great for winter ascents on snowshoes or back country skies with a minimal risk of avalanches. How did I get to the peak?

Date of summit: 30th April 2019 14:55 
Traveling mode: Hiking
Height of the peak: 2170m
Hiking distance: 7.59 km 
Time to ascend to Midžor: 2 hours 28 minute 
Elevation climbed: 714m 
Map of my hiking to Midžor: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: ***  (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Zaječarsko Pšenično *** (6 stars maximum)

Finally the Balkans. Traveling across the countries of the former USSR was interesting but it was a tough time for my liver. I was looking forward to new mountain challenges and the Balkans definitively offer them. This time I was traveling with my mum. Our previous summit in Romania wasn’t successful so we wanted to improve our reputation.

My mother picked me up by car at the Vienna airport where I landed after my flight from Moldova and we drove through Hungary to Serbia. We passed the large Pannonian Basin after the city Niš, which is by the way the birthplace of Constantine the Great, and headed to the mountains.

Amazing Balkan hospitality

*My mum and I took dinner in a very interesting tram café in Niš*

In the evening we reached the mountain village Babin Zub, the starting point of the hike to Midžor. We were welcome by a pleasant receptionist waiting at the door of the hotel Babin Zub. She quickly earned the nickname Nema Problema (In Serbian: No problem). We had a lot of questions and we always got this answer. At first we suspected that she did not understand our questions at all. But she really fixed everything. I must admit our stay was very pleasant.

We didn’t get up early in the morning because the weather forecast was bad. We rather enjoyed a great local breakfast in the form of a buffet full of all possible salads, cheese, sausages, eggs and other local delicacies.

Long winter in the Balkans

It was a good decision because it started to snow heavily during our breakfast. Who would expect that from the Balkans at the end of April? In the end there were ten cm of new snow outside before we finished our breakfast. That will be a hike!

*Fresh snow on the hill seen from our window*

The snowfall passed but instead a thick fog covered the Serbian mountains. My mum and I would have liked to postpone the hike for the following day but it wasn’t an option. We had to save extra days for more challenging mountains. We had to conquer Midžor even in these bad conditions.

Most of the route was along an off-road path so it was easy to follow it even in the current fog. The hike was a bit boring in this weather but we soon got lucky. After an hour of walking the fog disappeared and we could finally see the beauty of the Serbian mountains. We also found out why the local village and our hotel are called Babin Zub (Grandma’s tooth). A large rock in the shape of a tooth rises above the village.

Hostile Midžor

*View over the Babin Zub rock and small local ski resort*

This weather wasn’t suppose to stay good for a long time. We saw dark clouds approaching us. When we reached the summit the clouds just arrived. We again found ourselves in a dense fog, this time accompanied by strong winds and heavy snowfall. The snowflakes were even mixed with hail. The icy particles were big and frozen. They were hitting our faces so hard that we had to cover them with our scarfs. These were the harshest conditions I had ever experienced on any mountain. That’s how I imagine conditions when conquering the North Pole. Who would expect this from Serbia at the end of April? If similar weather would have met me in Iceland, Mont Blanc or another difficult mountain, I think it would have been a fight for life or death.

My tips for climbing the mountain Midžor:

In winter, take snowshoes or back country skies with you to summit Modžor. After the successful summit you can also enjoy skiing in the ski resort Babin Zub.
Don’t forget to enjoy local food and drinks in Serbian restaurants or mountain huts. The food is delicious and cheap.

May 13, 2020 • 0 Comment

PEAK 36: Moldova – Dealul Bălănești

Statistics say that Moldova is the poorest country in Europe. The country is visited by the least tourists and the average European probably knows very little about Moldova. These were the reasons why I was looking forward to visiting this country. How was my climb to the country’s highest point Dealul Bălănești (also sometimes called Bălănești hill)?

Date of summit: 28th April 2019 12:00 
Traveling mode: Walk
Height of the peak: 430m
Hiking distance: 1.3 km 
Time to ascend to  Bălănești: 0 hours 29 minute 
Elevation climbed: 104m 
Map of my journey to  Dealul Bălănești: Movescount
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Chișinău Specială Tare *** (6 stars maximum)

To reach the Moldovan capital Chisinau from the Ukrainian village Vorokhta, my friends and I had to use four different means of transport (train, bus, trolley bus and taxi). Since I enjoyed travelling by Ukrainian trains (as described in the previous article), I was looking forward even to this trip. However, I soon found out that the enjoyment won’t apply to Ukrainian-Moldovan night buses.

Potholes and constant turns didn’t allow me to asleep for a minute and when I finally managed we just came to the border where we had to spend over two hours for customs inspection of our bus. How I missed Shengen! In the end we reached Chisinau after 16 hours.

Fortunately, another former classmate Kurt was waiting for us in Chisinau. He fixed accommodation in a nice hotel in the city center, right next to the bus stop so we could go to sleep directly after our arrival.

The largest winery in the world

When we woke up we wanted to learn about Chisinau on a local free guided tour. The problem was that there is no such thing in Chisinau. Just another confirmation that only a few tourists visit the country. We had to look for an alternative program. In the end we decided for a visit of the largest wine cellar in the world – Cricova.

Cricova has been the largest producer of wine in the Soviet Union (up to half of the production was made here) and continued growing even after its collapse. Today, its cellars are as large as a medium-sized city. There are 110 kilometers of roads underground and hundreds of storage rooms for wine. The tour was interesting. We visited multiple storage rooms as well as presidential halls where significant guests such as Merkel or Putin tasted local wines.

*You’ll find a lot of fancy wines in this underground street*

Not surprisingly, we looked forward to the tasting held at the end of the tour. During the tasting ceremony we could test four wines and I must say that I was surprised by the quality of Moldovan wines. I will not list all the flavors of citrus, nuts, ginger, chocolate and olives which I should have recognized according to the guide but I definitely liked the wines a lot.

Little party never killed nobody

As we got curious about other wines too, we also visited the local restaurant afterwards. We got lucky. There were no guests so the staff offered us one of the presidential halls. There we continued tasting exceptional wines.

I don’t know if the waiter knew what the risks were, but we were suggested to play our own music in the hall. At first the music created a pleasant atmosphere. After a few bottles of wine though, the guests started to sing along. At first it was calm singing, but when the Queen’s song Bohemian Rhapsody occurred on the playlist the guests couldn’t control the volume anymore. Waiter Juraj started to regret his offer but he didn’t turn the music off, just professionally told us that other guests would be glad to enjoy their dinner in quiet. This remark was enough for us to stop our presidential party.

Our luxury party ended but there was one more point in our program. We found out that Ladislav Zibura, one of the most famous Czech travelers and writers, is in the city and he invited us for dinner with local Czechs working for non-profit organizations. At this unusual Czech meeting in Chişinău everyone initially looked serious. We talked about the serious issues of poverty and other major problems Moldova has been dealing with. After a few drinks, however, the conversation turned to more cheerful topics and the party was soon on. We continued to local clubs where our friend Kurt, the winner of the Star Dance contest, turned the evening into the biggest party of my expedition.

Unexpected trips are always the best

During the party I was feeling like there couldn’t be a better preparation for climbing the highest mountain in Moldova but I changed my mind in the morning. I was so hangover that I couldn’t drive. I will need a one day break which we filled in by a trip to Transnistria, de facto independent country.

Easter in Moldovan countryside

*Village Bălănești below the highest peak of the country*

The plan worked out. I was ready the next day. I rented a car, picked up my new friend Klára and finally went on a trip to Dealul Bălănești. We passed a lot of socialist architectural gems (huge concrete buildings) and soon left the city. In the Moldovan countryside I was most impressed by the number of decorated wells and bizarre bus stops. It looked like there is a competition in Moldova for the most decorated stop/well in Moldova. It must be difficult to choose the winner.

In an hour and a half we arrived to the village of Bălăneşti, the starting point for the short hike to Dealul Bălănești. I was surprised that we drove on mostly new roads. Impressive. We parked close to the local grocery store where we bought an Easter cake and continued to the peak. We had a pleasant walk, passed several nice country houses with colorful fences, blooming trees, another well and a local farmer.

*Cheers on the highest point of Moldova*

The peak was already near. We reached it in a few minutes and enjoyed a beautiful spring day. There we had a small picnic with beer and an Easter cake. A nice end of the Moldovan trip.

My tips for climbing the mountain Dealul Bălănești:

There are several hiking trails around the summit. Browse the beautiful Moldovan countryside.
Beware which car you rent. Even though the road to Bălănești was 95% on asphalt there was a short part on a dirt road. After heavy rain it might be very muddy.
Visit the Cricova winery. It is a great cultural and tasting experience.

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